Couple days ago I was idling at a traffic signal and it just cut off! Turned AC and radio off and tried again and it started right up. Thought it might be a bad crankshaft sensor by the symptom. This morning I replaced the camshaft and crankshaft sensors using #8 Torx star socket. This afternoon I got gas and tried starting but did nothing except had dash lights. Second try and it started right up! Don't know where to go from here. If I can get one of the two OBD readers working on my Android I'll pull some codes. It pairs with my phone but won't do anything.

 

Might be a bad ground or battery connection?

 

Have previously checked my grounds but never hurts to check again. Now I have two unreliable Xfires that can't be trusted! Thanks

 

Especially in damp weather.

 

Could be the relay control module.
When it won't start, turn the key to the ON position and wait 20 seconds. Does the radiator fan spin up REALLY fast?
Is the spoiler stuck in the UP position?
Dash fault lights?
Are the two relays shown closed with the key in the ON position? How much darker are the three middle relay coils compared to the outer two relay coils?

 

I just took apart the RCM and found nothing suspect. All the coils look fresh and bright, no sign of dark arcing spots on the contacts and all the solder joints look very good. The spoiler is not stuck in the up position and the fan does not run after 25 seconds. (Of course I'd have to check fan when it doesn't start next time.) I did not check the two relays energized before putting back in car. I did not replace the crankshaft sensor with Bosch OEM sensors. I have no "Check Engine" warning light illuminated. I have ordered Bosch sensors this morning as "most" members suggest is a must. Going to have the battery load tested this morning and the alternator is putting out 14.5 volts.

Side note: Can't see why aftermarket crank sensor should not work as it's just a magnet and inductance coil on the end with two contacts that sends a pulse to the ECM. And it does work as the car starts and runs!

 

Measure and compare the size of the terminals of both of the original Bosch crank sensor and the aftermarket one You already have installed.

Daniel

 

What a sales 'motto"......

 

I'll do that when my new ones arrive. Took the car for a spin a couple of times today and had no problems. Not long rides so things didn't get that warm. Had the battery load tested and tested 95% good. Ordered a better code reader. Wow I splurged $20 on it. Must be a really good one. LoL

 

Well after all my two cars are 17 & 18 years old and will need TLC from now on till it's salvage yard time! Had this '06 now for a couple years with no real problems until this hic-up! My '05, a work in progress, has SKREEM problems and will be sent to MSS for the key delete mod next month plus an extra key/fob. (Too many financial responsibilities this month.)

 

I have two main scanners. Torque Pro ($5) for quick and dirty and an Autel Diaglink ( ) for diving deep into modules. If anyone knows of a "deep dive" scanner that can export to a PC for less than the Autel, please let me know.

 

If you have two XFs, swap the RCMs. See how things go.
As far as the aftermarket crank sensor goes, it's been seen time and time again that they are unreliable. That's why we insist on the Bosch part.

 

I have a . Standard Motor Products (SMP) is a good supplier for my cars, bought a lot of sensors from them

 

My Bosch CPS's arrived today for my two Xfire's. Haven't had anymore hic-ups, with the aftermarket CPS's, so I see no urgency to replace them at this time. Still waiting on my code reader to arrive to pull codes.

 

Could be a bad crank sensor. Or could be a bad "engine control relay output" from the RCM.


If you mean the starter did not engage, next time it does this, WAIT with key at ON for 1/2 minute, if the engine fan spins fast after about 15 seconds, then the engine control relay output from the RCM has failed. This will cause teh engine to DIE and the starter will NOT engage in such a case.

Two more things:
Do not disregard what Tighe has to say.
I'm leaning towards a bad RCM. CRank and Cam sensors will not stop the starter from engaging, but a bad RCM will. It is not much more complicated than that.

Quote:

Second try and it started right up! Don't know where to go from here. If I can get one of the two OBD readers working on my Android I'll pull some codes. It pairs with my phone but won't do anything.

Flaky cam and crank sensors will usually but not always throw codes. Bad RCMs generally don't throw codes because if the engine control relay output fails, the ECU does not power it, it can't generate codes if it is not powered up.

Buying non-Bosch cam and crank sensors is a waste of time. They can and do cause FLAKY issues like: WOn't start, but starter engages. Dies at traffic lights. Runs rough.

Tighe and I and others have been on here for YEARS. If you think we are wrong, I have no idea what you will say when Zeracer, Valk, LagDan, onehundred80 and dozens of others tell you the same thing. BOSH for Cam and Crank or suffer the consequences.

Actually, I just put a new unified coil pack and crank sensor in my Ford Ranger. I used Motorcraft parts only, when troubleshooting confusing problems, I don't waste my time on off-brand parts that may have been manufactured outside of specifications to avoid patent issues, or due to lousy quality control.

 

Thanks Pizzaguy! I'll monitor how things go before I do anymore worrying. Been running and starting fine "at this time" and just have to see what happens. As previously mentioned I did already put new aftermarket crank and and cam sensors, inspected the relays for hot spots or coil discolorization. Just for grins I used emory cloth on the engine relay contacts. I'll hold off on installing my new Bosch crank sensor. Got down into the low 40's last night so I guess I'll go for a cool morning drive and see if the heater works or not. LoL Don't get too much cold weather here in Tampa. I did change the oil and filter yesterday with a oil suction pump that really worked well. ( No getting under the car! ) Best $25 I've spent in awhile and already paid for itself by doing both my Xfire's.