I know you tried, but you are not being all that clear. You will get guesses based on what each person responding assumes you are saying. In a few weeks or months, you may stumble onto the problem.
Originally Posted by
Platterus
I found a hydraulic line disconnected on Main lift cylinders beside reservoir in trunk. Got that filled up after several cycles of raising and lowering the roof.
So you eventually got the reservoir back up between the two lines? When the top is either fully UP or fully DOWN, the level is between the two lines, is that correct?
Found an issue with decklid not locking in place properly when putting roof back up, and whole roof assembly bucking when window bow is supposed to drop into deck lid.
So does the top "buck" ONLY when the box is lowering or does it 'buck' at other times?
I'm just waiting for pressure to relieve on window so it closes again.
Why? The system depressurizes when the cycle is complete, or when the timer expires, which is ~ nine minutes of no activity.
IF you dont want to wait, you can instantly release pressure by manipulating the button as described in the owner's manual or by pulling the 25 amp pump fuse in the underhood fuse box.
Tried using 10mm box wrench to manually lock and unlock deck, but it doesn't seem to even be able to find the flat portion on release.
Use the top tool, and position the tool as depicted in the videos on Youtube or the sketch in the manual. I know there are asshats on here who claim you can use a simple 10mm wrench, you can't, the tool is curved for a reason and while you CAN grab the cam with it, you
cannot rotate the cam far enough before the wrench is obstructed by the lid.
The deck lid bounces like its searching for it's position when I try using switch to close it.
So now you say the LID bounces, before you said the rear bow "bucks". I not sure what we are troubleshooting, but make sure the level in the tank is between the two lines with
all pressure released. Looking at the level at any time there is pressure on the system is meaningless. The only "bleeding" of the system that can be done, is to cycle the top up and down a few times.
I also think that you are ignoring something: What do you mean the line was disconnected from the cylinder? How did that happen? Is the line properly connected?
In the twelve years I've been here and owned three Roadsters, I do not remember anyone saying a line came off on it's own. Was the system fixed/serviced/screwed with recently? Did you buy the car recently (meaning you don't know the history and anything is possible)?