I found a hydraulic line disconnected on Main lift cylinders beside reservoir in trunk. Got that filled up after several cycles of raising and lowering the roof. Found an issue with decklid not locking in place properly when putting roof back up, and whole roof assembly bucking when window bow is supposed to drop into deck lid. Any ideas what my issue can be? I'm just waiting for pressure to relieve on window so it closes again. Tried using 10mm box wrench to manually lock and unlock deck, but it doesn't seem to even be able to find the flat portion on release.
The deck lid bounces like its searching for it's position when I try using switch to close it.

 

To me it sounds like air in the system.

 

I know you tried, but you are not being all that clear. You will get guesses based on what each person responding assumes you are saying. In a few weeks or months, you may stumble onto the problem.

So you eventually got the reservoir back up between the two lines? When the top is either fully UP or fully DOWN, the level is between the two lines, is that correct?

So does the top "buck" ONLY when the box is lowering or does it 'buck' at other times?

Why? The system depressurizes when the cycle is complete, or when the timer expires, which is ~ nine minutes of no activity.
IF you dont want to wait, you can instantly release pressure by manipulating the button as described in the owner's manual or by pulling the 25 amp pump fuse in the underhood fuse box.

Use the top tool, and position the tool as depicted in the videos on Youtube or the sketch in the manual. I know there are asshats on here who claim you can use a simple 10mm wrench, you can't, the tool is curved for a reason and while you CAN grab the cam with it, you cannot rotate the cam far enough before the wrench is obstructed by the lid.

So now you say the LID bounces, before you said the rear bow "bucks". I not sure what we are troubleshooting, but make sure the level in the tank is between the two lines with all pressure released. Looking at the level at any time there is pressure on the system is meaningless. The only "bleeding" of the system that can be done, is to cycle the top up and down a few times.


I also think that you are ignoring something: What do you mean the line was disconnected from the cylinder? How did that happen? Is the line properly connected?
In the twelve years I've been here and owned three Roadsters, I do not remember anyone saying a line came off on it's own. Was the system fixed/serviced/screwed with recently? Did you buy the car recently (meaning you don't know the history and anything is possible)?

 

I had the rear bumper replaced, and suspect the body man didn't replace the retaining clip properly.

 

I bought the car about 5 years ago on eBay, and replaced all the cylinders with Top Hydraulics help. Roof worked fine after that. Had rear bumper replaced, and didn't check the lock in clips on Main lift cylinder in trunk afterwards, so assume it wasn't properly locked in place. Went a year manually opening and closing roof using 10mm wrench on decklid (original tool not with the car when I bought it) . Eventually, the deck lid latch stopped clicking in place when trying to lock open, unless decklid was lifted up a little. Of course the chime still went off, because wasn't latched properly. Just recently had time to check the reservoir and cylinder in trunk and discovered it being disconnected and reservoir empty. I filled up reservoir after reattaching hydraulic line. Cycled roof. After a couple of refills, it seemed to successfully cycle open, but when I tried to close roof, decklid at first came down and window bow stayed up in raised position. Decklid continued to seem to come up and down from seated position, like it was hunting for a place to settle, maybe 3/4 of an inch in seated spot, while at the same time the roof would be violently jerking . I know about waiting for a few minutes for pressure to release. Should have probably left that detail off previous posting