Latch on my top is locked partailly. The trunk is locked also. Am not able to get the top to go up or down. Just had my dream car over a month. Can anyone help me get it unlocked so I can manually move the top. Have a appointment at the dealership but sure would like a home remedy.

 

Welcome to the forum.
Are the door locks operating? It doesn't make sense that you can't unlock the upper section. Do the windows go down when you turn the handle?

 

If it is just the rear lock there is a special wrench in the car that you slide down the slot under the rear window. This will open up the lock. Do a search and you will see what the tool looks like.

 

Your description of the issue is confusing...is it the trunk or the tonneau cover where the roof is stored...that won't open...? Sounded to me initially like the roof was partially latched...if that's true I'd try to relatch it fully by turning the handle and pulling down...if the handle is jammed I would fool w/it some but not force it as you'll probably break something - go to the dealership unfortunately...


I did experience where I unlatched the roof prior to turning on the vehicle so when I went to put the top down, the windows did not go down so I relatched it and turned the car on prior to unlatching...it's not that smart I guess to know it's been unlatched...so must be a sensor in the latching mechanism...

Roof problems are certainly a pain in a convertible...

 

The wrench won't help on this one. The hook latch under the rear windshield is just caught enough so it will not go down or dislodge. We tried just about everything we could think of as far as info in manual. Will be making my trip to the car doctor tomorrow. Hope it's a quick fix. Thanks

 

I'm having the same problem... the top isn't latched into the mechinism on the trunck, but the mechinism the top latches into is prematurely closed, can't open it, so there is a gap between the back window and the car of about an inch or two (same distance and the latch). And the truck won't open. I've locked and unlocked it hoping that would work, but it won't open at all... HELP. To add insult to injury, I'm on the waiting list for a new top, which costs (including labor) over $2500.00. Fortunately insurance is covering it, but I'm scared that maybe water got into the electrical and is causing all these other problems... HELP!

 

Had the same problem with the back latching mechanism on the trunk top wouldnt lock! Had to use some white lithium grease
on the latch all works again! Thanks to the great wisdom on these
boards Good Luck!
Happy Driving

 

Check the latch handle....there is a button in the center top of the latch handle that must be pushed in order to be able to twist the handle to unlock and lock the the top latch. On some later model Roadsters the pressing of the button was omitted, on my 2005 Roadster Limited (Build #32195) the button had to be pushed in order to turn the latch handle. This may or may not be your problem, hope the info helps.

 

TAKE A NUMBER SIX MM ALLEN WRENCH AND PUT IT INTO THE ALLEN HEAD BOLT UNDER WINDOW AND WHILE APPLYING LIGHT PRESSURE TURN THE ALLEN WRENCH IT WILL PULL THE TOP DOWN INTO THE LATCH AND LOCK ,,I AM WAITING ON SENSORS FROM THE DEALER NOW AND I PUT MY TOP UP AND DOWN ALL THE TIME MANUALLY TAKES ABOUT 4 MINUTES ,,,,,,,,HOPE THIS HELPS YOU OUT

 

Since my D-ring is not completely latching down the convertible top (passenger side loose) could someone point out a little better where this "allen bolt" is accessed from.

And the D-ring does not un-latch now...
Seems the d-ring just spins around and does not grab the release mechanism anymore.
Plus the beeeeeeeping is annoying.
Will the fix for silencing the seatbelt chime/beep work for the top also?

How do you get the top unlatched if the d-ring is not working?
Is this also the function of the "Allen Bolt" ???

If I can get some advice on how to free the drivers side perhaps I can then get to and make repairs to the d-ring and latching mechanisms....
Diagram on page 423 shows a "KEY"
http://www.majormotorshotrods.com/_d...rts_Manual.pdf

Anyone had this problem?

Thanks,
CaughtInaXF

 

The "KEY" is the special tool that most people seem to be missing.
It is used for unlatching the tonneau cover, and removing the lower right grille insert for access to the towing point.
( You can get by with a thin 10mm open end wrench and a long screwdriver )

I went out to the garage and had a look at my top, there is no way to access the 2 side locks when the top is locked down except possibly removing the plastic trim ( around the top of the windshield and the visors )
I do not know if this trim can be removed with the top locked, and I am not really sure it will provided the needed access to the locking mechanisms if it can.

Sorry, that's about all the help I can provide without trying to remove the trim on mine, and I do not wish to break anything in that attempt.

From the service manual, it appears it CAN be done :
1. Lower the convertible top. ( EXCEPT FOR MAYBE THIS STEP .....
2. Remove both A-pillar trim panels. (Refer to 23 - BODY/INTERIOR/A-PILLAR TRIM - REMOVAL).
3. Remove both sun visors.
4. Remove the dome lamp assembly.
5. Remove the lower windshield trim panel and disconnect the universal transmitter harness connector.
6. Remove the upper windshield trim panel.
7. Disconnect the latch retainer switch harness connector(5).
8. Remove the latch retainer bolts (4) and remove the shim (3) and retainer (2) from the windshield header (1).

( the Allen bolt is located top center in the trunk, it is the manual release for the rear bow latch, nothing to do with the header latch )

 

I'm lost here. There are several people askingn about their tops, but it's hard to follow.

Here is my input: If you are putting the top up or down, the truck in electrically locked until the top is either all the way up, or all the way down and stored under the cover. This is normal. There is no way to open the trunk in such a situation where the top is not done moving, unless you go to the dealer and pay them several hundred dollars to plug into the DC and command the electric lock to open - ASSUMING they have the device to do this!

If you want to understand the top's operation, see post 9: https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...es-please.html

 

I should add that the lock I refer to is electric and has NOTHING to do with the key fob lock/unlock buttons. Those buttons operate the pneumatic lock on the trunk.

 

Mark, the problem here seems to be the rods from the "D" handle have fallen off one or both of the top bow latch mechanisms ( he says he can spin the "D' handle around )

The issue is how to get the "L" shaped latch thingys to release so you can then remove the top bow covers and get to all the junk.

The rods are attached to the "D" handle, and have a socket/ball connection to the "L" shaped latch arms.

 

And I have NO idea how to go about that! SOME of the threads read like they were talking about the rear bow latch in the trunk.
That overhead thing has not given me any trouble - so far.

Anywya, I can't be around much till thursday, working on a presentation for international sales this Wednesday... this is a working weekend for me.

 

AHA! Yes that may be the info I need alaxfire!
Skimmed through most everything about the top, which page was this on?
Hoping there was a way to get to the latches or where the latches hook.
I ordered the new latch assembly and will leave top up till it arrives.

 

I was able to squeeze my hand in between canvas and header. I could get the passenger side rod/ball to grab the d-rings mechanism/socket and that closed the passenger side securely. No more beep.
But I tried for an hour previously to get the ball and socket of the drivers side to release...no go.
The pulling action on the rods to open latches is more than I could exert by hand.

Will try the trim and panel removal when part arrives..

 

Could you possibly snake a wire loop around the latch ball and give 'er a good yank ?
Once the top is released, you can remove the 2 cover panels in the header bow to get to all the mechanisms ......

Just out of curiosity, where are you located ?

 

Good Idea!
I will try the snake method first when parts come in.
IF I don't touch d-ring till then, the passenger side ball and socket may stay together and open/release that side normally...but I see myself doing some fishing for both rods

 

{Parts arrived} on island (Hawaii)
Now just need to magically make them install themselves...

Looking at the D-ring, it has a hole in one side at pivot point.
Need to remove D-ring to remove/replace the latch mechanism and fit it through hole in header.

Must be a set screw or a pin?