Originally Posted by
Tickfaw Joe
Yeah, I thought I would find it quickly originally, just from the smoke it would most likely produce. But then I figured it was going to ground, and it was absorbing and dissipating the energy. Honestly I do not understand where the energy goes (my assumption was ground) when Diodes fail in an Alternator, is why I knee jerk replaced it.
I tried to operate the Top yesterday after work, and then checked the draw, but it was the same 0.15A, then to 0.03A. And it still would not operate correctly. I hope to cycle the Top manually this afternoon, and check the motors, and look for hydrophilic leaks. My thinking is, if there is an "out-of-sync situation" maybe this will correct it? I am not sure where the "Top Module" is, but I am sure it's addressed on this site somewhere.
Originally after seeing the 5A go to 1A after simply jacking up the car, I thought maybe a wire is pinched going to the Top, but now I am thinking that wire would be fused, and secondly would only be "hot" when the ignition is on. Am I correct in my thinking here?
Either way, I plan to get the Top working (as I plan to order a new one as soon as these issues are cleared up) then monitor my energy consumption, till the issue arises again. Not sure what else I can do at this point.
Thanks,
The current is flowing thru ground, but energy does not "go to ground", it has to be dissipated either as light, mechanical energy/motion or heat. In almost EVERY case of unwanted current, the current is flowing thru a path it does not belong in and is dissipated as heat. But if this heat is dissipated in a huge hunk of metal or iron, you may never notice it as the more mass you have, the more heat energy it takes to heat the mass up.
I wrote all of this to address where stuff is:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...p-sensors.html
My re-sync video is here:
DO not let yourself become discouraged. I have two friends here in DFW, both spent $400 on "diagnostics" that fixed nothing. One at a time, they came to the house and we worked on their tops. I got one top working while he was here. THe other was so messed up (he bought the car as a basket case) I proved that the issue was a sensor but could not isolate which one. We could fake the system out and make the top move, proving his mechanical/hydraulic systems were OK. Having little troubleshooting background, after several more phone calls with me, he found it - and had his top working in maybe three weeks. That gent is 83 years old and said he'd not fixed ANYTHING in 20 years - he was a very happy guy; and he impressed me to no end.
