Axle stand points
You start by jacking up the rear by placing the floor jack under the differential, this will allow you to raise high enough to get 2 fully collapsed jack stands under the 2 rear jack pads.
Then move the jack to the front where you will find a cross member just behind the engine.
This will allow you to raise the front enough for the other 2 jack stands under the front 2 jack points.
Then move the jack to the front where you will find a cross member just behind the engine.
This will allow you to raise the front enough for the other 2 jack stands under the front 2 jack points.
I place a 4 ft. 2X4 between the jacking points on driver's side of the car. I then position my trolley jack under the middle of the 2X4 and jack up that side of the car. I put small wooden plugs in the jacking points to prevent marring them with the jack stands, and then set the jack stands under the jacking points and lower the car. I then do the same on the passenger side.
The jacking points are the four little black plastic pads located behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels under the door/fender sills. They accept the jack that came with the car. Your owner's manual shows you.
Crymar,
Got that , even made some small wooden blocks that fit in the plastic hack points to protect them when I jack up one corner with my hydraulic jack. I probably didn't explain myself in my original post, I just wanted to know where to jack the car, but not using the jack points. I now have the answer.
Planning on doing a brake fluid transfusion in the next few days.
Mick
Got that , even made some small wooden blocks that fit in the plastic hack points to protect them when I jack up one corner with my hydraulic jack. I probably didn't explain myself in my original post, I just wanted to know where to jack the car, but not using the jack points. I now have the answer.
Planning on doing a brake fluid transfusion in the next few days.
Mick
Your post was clear. The confusion resulted from me responding directly from the e-mail alert which only noted your original post that started the thread. So, my post was just added to the que. When I went to the forum I saw my mistake. Good luck with your Crossfire.
Oconnom
When i did my brake job, i replaced the bleeder zerks with "Speed Bleeders".
They are great.
Do all four at one time.
Clear tube pushes on to each so you can do a clean drain.
Have fun
When i did my brake job, i replaced the bleeder zerks with "Speed Bleeders".
They are great.
Do all four at one time.
Clear tube pushes on to each so you can do a clean drain.
Have fun
You start by jacking up the rear by placing the floor jack under the differential, this will allow you to raise high enough to get 2 fully collapsed jack stands under the 2 rear jack pads.
Then move the jack to the front where you will find a cross member just behind the engine.
This will allow you to raise the front enough for the other 2 jack stands under the front 2 jack points.
Then move the jack to the front where you will find a cross member just behind the engine.
This will allow you to raise the front enough for the other 2 jack stands under the front 2 jack points.
But if you jack up the front first, there may not be enough clearance to get your jack underneath the rear. Just kidding.
NOTE: I do not go in from the front after the rear is up, I go in from the side about middle way. The jack is at an angle on the cross member, but it works.
Actually, it's the other way around for me. I can't get the jack under the front, until I get the rear jacked up and on stands.
NOTE: I do not go in from the front after the rear is up, I go in from the side about middle way. The jack is at an angle on the cross member, but it works.
NOTE: I do not go in from the front after the rear is up, I go in from the side about middle way. The jack is at an angle on the cross member, but it works.
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