I just got a 2004 coupe,6speed manual...and just joined this forum. Am I just imaging this or does the car have an issue? The first gear seams way too low. Yes, I test drove the car at the dealership, with the salesman sitting in the passenger seat, so I drove sorta normal-like. After giving the car its first treatment with Militec I tried putting my foot into it and way before the redline it dropped RPM`s with my foot still on the gas. I assume there is some sort of rev-limiter..?..but shutting down..I just do not understand it ? First gear is like my old Dodge truck..it has a "granny" gear that is only good for pulling tree stumps. If I treat it real gentle, I`m still forced to shift in less than 2 seconds. Any thoughts, advice, or criticism is welcome.

 

First gear is low, real low. Most of us just start out in 2nd.

Read me---> https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...d-gearbox.html

 

Welcome and grats on your purchase. From a dead stop I still like 1st and shifting to 2nd 3-3500, I do not like slipping the clutch or lugging the engine in 2nd. the 1st gear really comes in handy sitting in traffic jambs on interstate, 3.4mph at idle.
Would be great if we had around a 288 rearend

 

Speedy, Would a Mercedes specialist be able to change the rear-end gearing..? Also what bit of electronics is dropping the RPM`s ..instantly.. upon hard acceleration..?

 

BAS/ESP (Traction Control) if you override it by turning the switch off you better be careful....you could get loose and spin out. Best to leave it on for now.

 

Sparkie, I have tried already tried that. I just read a post in another section of the forum, that claims you only cut back the TC effect by 20% when you turn the switch off. Others claim that the power to the controller must be terminated at fuse box.

 

The 306 from the srt is the only option that I know of.
At 75 mph would drop 200 rpm. most of my driving is interstate and I would like the 288 rearend. And would make 1st gear better at takeoff.

 

Depending on the year cutting power to the controller at the fuse box will disable your brake lights and ABS - both things which you want to keep.

Are your wheels turned at all while you're trying this out? Just hitting the button will (in my experience) let you spin one wheel all you want provided you're in a straight line.

The off switch on the dash disables the 'fake-LSD' rear brake TC which is directed by the wheel speed sensors and tries to keep one wheel from spinning faster than the others.

For me hitting the dash button seems to be effective at completely disabling that aspect of the TC. I have spun one wheel all the way up to redline while stationary and pointed straight (on ice, as I don't care enough about tire smoke to risk my drivetrain... ) without noticing any intervention from the car.

However, turning the switch off does NOT disable the stability program, which uses a combination of an electronic gyroscope (yaw sensor) located under the center storage cubby, wheel speed sensors, and the steering angle sensor to brake individual wheels in an effort to try to keep you from spinning the car.

Cutting off the yaw sensor's power disables the stability / yaw control. This will let you drift, figure-8, and donut (to the extent that you can do these things without an LSD). I also prefer this for track driving - I'm used to trying to catch spins in other RWD cars without electronic minders and I find that with the stability control, the car has a tendency to "snap back" on me.

I leave it on for the street, though.

 

Speedy & Bri3d..Thanks for the insights..this forum has so much valuable info. I`m really amazed! Looking at all sorts of postings... I realized that my issues could be as simple as a "Throttle Reset"..I certainly did not know it even had one. Also it`s said that the vehicles computer sorta learns how you drive, and since this car only has been driven 13 K in the last 10 years..maybe it thinks it`s still parked in the garage ? While I do not want to do anything stupid with the car..I am on a quest to make it perform to my (old fart) standards. For me.. it has to on par with my other rides. I do not want a dragster..(already got that)..I want a good road car..and I have been known to speed..on occasion. I really like the idea of changing the gearing. Last dumb question for now..why was the SRT6 automatic only ?

 

Welcome to the forum.
It sounds like your rev limiter is kicking in early. Are you sure it's not actually at red line? It gets there in the wink of an eye.
I purchased my 04 brand new, and the "limp mode" would kick in every time the rear wheels would break traction the slightest little bit. I assumed my car had an overly sensitive TC, but after living with it for 3 years, I finally disconnected the TC at the main fuse box. On the 04's you can do that and it doesn't have any effect on your brake lights. But you do lose your traction control, and your antilock brakes.
I'm not suggesting ANYBODY do this, I'm only telling you what worked for me. I never drive my XF in the winter, and seldom in the rain. I've never been a big fan of antilock brakes, so I don't miss that feature. Since I don't have an SRT, traction has never been a problem either.
Don't sweat the low 1st. gear, you will get use to it.
Changing the gear ratio is a really big deal on these cars. Nobody makes aftermarket ring and pinions, and it's a reprograming nightmare.
Mercedes only installs "automatics" on it's most powerful engines.
Enjoy

 

a) I am told that in europe there is a diesel sedan with a 2.xx rear axle that can fit but have never verified.


2) The gearing is abbysurd but since 2nd is lower than first in my GTO I usually start in 2nd unless in slow traffic, at a mall, or in my driveway.


3) The same gearbox is used in a Jeep Wrangler and is designed to go straight up the side of a wall.


4) Think a rear gear as in (1) is the real answer, would also stop looking for another gear on the Interstate.


ps know the ABS/TC doesn't really care how fast the wheels turn just are they turning at different speeds.