yup, jm, those are the bulbs i have in the car for the brake/tail function. i got the same info from them when i needed to insure the correct bulb for the application, and they are the folks that explained the fact that the built in resistor wasn't enough of a load for our system to eliminate the lamp out indicator. tfheir only solution was the resistor addition to the wiring of the socket. that is why i am hoping someone will be kind enough to share their wiring diagram for a setup thwt works with the addition of a resistor to the socket wiring.

steve

 

The sight mentions Hyperflash which can corrected with a resister kit or a new flasher relay..
Seems simple to me, but there again I’m a dummy.

 

hyper flash refers to the turn signals primarily

 

Naturally, Jim Holians post #20 mentions the turn signal bulb and they can be more trouble and that fact and the cure is buried in the info on TS bulbs.
The resistor has a wire at each end, and each wire is attached to the wires coming from the bulb. It is wired in parallel with the LED bulb. The resistor is actually like another filament for the bulb and supplies the resistance that is missing from the LED bulb. Instead of supplying light the energy is given off as heat, so be careful what it touches. These could be soldered in, crimped in or you could use two of those crimp on connectors used to add a new power line from a nearby power line.
Somewhere in this forum the Ohm requirement for these resistors is given,

 

Hi guys I installed non can-bus led brake light bulbs in my coupe, I wanted the faster response on the brake lights. I wired the resister on the brake light circuit. The resisters get quite warm so I didn't wire resisters into the running lights. The warning dash light only comes on when the running lights (head lights) are on at night but not when I hit the brakes during the day with head lights off. This keeps the resisters cool as they only heat up when I hit the brakes.

 

I recently had a similar interest in swapping to LED bulbs on the tail-lights and flashers, and appreciate this thread very much; thank you to all of your relayed experiences with the issue.

However, after reading this thread, I think I'm going to save myself from the hassle and fail to see these troubles as an improvement in any way. Hot resistors and the lamp out indicator light reaming even with CANBUS bulbs does not appeal for the nominal difference realized. That, and after seeing no amazing improvement with LED bulbs in other applications except for interior lights, all this trouble doesn't make much sense.

But what got me most was this; if you simply go with those that then constantly activate your "lamp out indicator light" and ignore it's presence - is that wise?

Meaning, I would rather go with traditional incandescent bulbs that last some 8 to 10 years or so at least (though I actually have original incandescent bulbs in a '68 Chevelle and '66 Mustang all around that have yet to burn out after 50+ years), than to ever have to want to take on the chore of replacing a burned out "lamp out indicator light" in the dash, assuming that these 15 year old cars are running incandescent "lamp out indicator light" rather than LEDs - no?

 

Until someone comes up with a better mousetrap, the factory bulbs (originals) will do just fine. At the present, the LED's just are not worth the trouble to install them. Just my humble opinion.

Jim

 

i certainly have to agree. their presumed value doesn't offset the added BS necessary to have them operate properly. as an option for trunk, interior and glove box applications, they are certainly are a brighter option without the hassle (and heat) of standard incandescent bulbs and of the indicator light if that is an issue for you.i would love to hear from someone here who has detailed knowledge of the srt electrical system and try to determine if you could find a digital flasher unit for the car if it has the rest of the lighting system running through it in some way to produce sufficient load for the whole external lighting system. i would certainly assume if that were the case, that would have been posted here a long time ago so i figure that would help in this situation.

 

Where is the flasher relay to be found? Is it in the engine bay or inside the cabin?

 

In the main fuse box.