Okay guys I have a 04 Chrysler Crossfire 3.2L with 96k miles. I have changed all the spark plugs/wires, coils, camshaft position sensor, Crankshaft position sensors, fuel pump, fuel filter, soldered the RCM as well. I do not cheap out on parts so I know the new parts are not the issue. I cannot figure out why my crossfire cranks but won’t start. If I let the car sit for a while sometimes it will fire right up. If anybody could help that would be great!

 

When you turn on the ignition can you always hear the fuel pump?

 

A bit more info might help, was it OK before you started changing parts, did it happen after you changed a part or did you change parts all at once.
Have you had the car long or just got it, I mislaid my crystal ball.

 

Yes I can hear the fuel pump kick on every time. The car just recently started doing it. It was throwing a misfire code so I change plugs wires and coils. I made sure everything was changed and torqued properly before I started it up. I put the cable back on the battery and it fired right up. Test drove it the car ran extremely smooth. When I got back to my house I turned it off and tried to turn it back on. It starts cranking yet again. I’ve been through 3 Crankshaft position sensors because naturally that’s what I thought it would be, Bosch, duralast, and another one I can’t remember the name. Every time I unhook the battery then hook it back up it seems to fire right up. Any Ideas?

 

I'd replace the RCM, i don't believe in the soldering of the RCM as it never worked for me. Replacing mine fixed issues related to the RCM.

The only other thing it could be a skreem issue possibly.

 

Could this be a MFS issue?

 

I don't know what is wrong with your car, no one does. We don't know the history or symptoms, we only know what little you have posted.
But the above sentence CANNOT be overlooked. This is a MAJOR clue to what is going on.

Go into much more detail. Try answering this:

You yank the cable off and leave it off. Then you put it back on.
EXACTLY what will happen if you then try to start the car? Be wordy. Can you start it and go into town and go shopping? Or can you start it but it dies right away?
Are you REALLY saying that if you remove hte cable and put it back on, you can start the car and drive it - but you can't shut it off and restart it unless you disconnect the battery?

Because that is what you just said - now we need to know: Is that what you REALLY meant to say?

 

So you have a car that will engage the starter and 'crank' but not start. And you have put in several known-bad crank sensors. Got it. (No wonder you are having problems, you are doing EXACTLY what most of us tell people to NOT do.)

So, which brand of CPS is in the car now? Was it in a Bosch bag? Was that bag in a Bosch box? Where did you buy it?
The required answers are :
Bosch.
Yes.
Yes.
German Auto Suppply, FCP Euro, Autohaus (in Arizona) or a Mercedes Dealer - (any other answer will result in my advising you to sell the car today and buy a current production car of your choice. Several here will disagree with me, they really agree, they just don't like me. )

 

If you mean MAF, then yes. But with what little we know, it could be a LOT of things.

We KNOW some things:

The RCM is fine, as the car is cranking, so the ECR output of the RCM is OK. (Of course, the fuel pump or traction control relay or output could be bad. SO, IS the RCM ok?)
The Battery is probably fine, as the car is cranking and cranking (and sometimes even starts).
The pulse module, starter and solenoid are fine as well.

 

I bought the CPS straight from Bosch. I can start the car when I unhook the battery and hook it back up. I can drive anywhere. When I turn the car off with the key and then try to turn it back on with the key it just cranks. I have to unhook the battery then hook it back up to potentials start the car.

 

Another stab in the dark: Something picks up when you start the car but doesn't drop out when you shut it off. I'd try to see if you have a parasitic drain that would indicate a circuit is still hot that shouldn't be. If so try pulling fuses until you find the hot circuit.

 

I will try everything you guys recommend. I really appreciate the help! if anybody has any other ideas I’d love to hear them.

 

I have never heard this one before. I wonder if ANYONE has heard of "it cranks but won't start unless I disconnect the battery first". I gotta tell ya, in ten years on here ,I've never heard this one.



I think this is the place to start:
Problem is, to insert a meter to measure the current, you must disconnect the battery ground cable to put the meter in line. Doing that resets your issue. And there is no meter that I know of which can measure the small currents (under 100ma in most cases) that would be flowing AND pass the 300 or so amps of the starter.

So the idea is on the right track, but how do you do this?

Now, that drain is probably in the lead going to the small fuse box next to the battery. There are three fuses in there: 50 amp for the brake controller, 50 amp for the cooling fan and 200 amp for the rest of the car.
You could break into that lead with a meter, but again, even with no headlights, A/C or application of the brake pedal, you are looking at around 9 to 30 amps. Most low-current meters are fused at 10 amps.

Not sure how you can find this using the above idea. You COULD do the simple stuff, when the car wont' start:

Measure fuel pressure - if something has the pump locked out, (and that is possible) it will be obvious. (You should always hear the pump start and stop when you turn the key ON, but do not turn to START.)
Verify if the plugs are firing.

I mean, if you have no fuel pressure, you know it's a control issue between the ECM and RCM.

 

Another thought about something picking up but not dropping out when the ignition is turned off: Pull the RCM from the box but leave it plugged in; remove the cover and start the car; turn the ignition off and make sure none of the relays are stuck shut.

 

^^^^^^^^^ Now THERE is an idea. ^^^^^^^^^

 

Try reinstalling the old CPS ,....

 

What brand is the camshaft position sensor? Only use Bosch for this and the CPS.
Some camshaft sensors were bad from the get go. If it is not a Bosch I would put the old one back in and also use the Bosch or the original CPS.

 

Okay guys I took it to a local shop they said the timing chain is stretched and it’s going to be 2500 to replace.. Any recommendations?

 

How would unplugging the battery fix a stretched timing chain? My bet is still the RCM.

 

In ten YEARS on here, in going to 18 Dragons, two CAAs, numerous tech days, talking DAILY to owners on several Facebook Pages, NOT ONE TIME have I heard of a timing chain fail or stretch. I PERSONALLY know of perhaps 20 people over 100,000 miles and TWO ladies over 200,000 miles,no issues with the chain.

I drove the Graphite on the Dragon for five years, bouncing off the rev limiter often and WOT to 4500 rpm DOZENS of times a day - at 116,000 miles when the girl pulled out into traffic and my car was gone - it got 27mpg and ran fine.

If your chain is that badly stretched, why and how does it 'fire right up' at times? I'm not standing next to your car, but I don't buy this.