NEW YOUTUBE VIDEO "The Chrysler Crossfire Story"
Good tip for removing seized spark plugs and not stripping the threads in the aluminum head. I'll include a 2nd video which also espouses the same technique for exhaust bolts (it's a good technique for any "difficult" threaded fastener).
https://youtu.be/CZ-EF4bn2Y4
https://youtu.be/9PKNCVXvZ6w?list=LL
https://youtu.be/CZ-EF4bn2Y4
https://youtu.be/9PKNCVXvZ6w?list=LL
Breather hose replacement:
This is far from the best video on this topic, but I am faithfully posting every video 'MercedesSource' puts on YOUTUBE in his M112/M113 engine series. Replacing these hoses is a job I did personally along with resealing the breather covers. I took pictures trying to document the process online in this forum. There are 3 or 4 posts that begin with this one... https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post969044
So, would I do ANYTHING differently were I ever to do the job again? Yeah I would but I welcome any feedback on this. I used all genuine Mercedes-Benz parts which are made of actual rubber. There's at least one manufacturer who makes the hoses out of I think, viton; but I could be wrong about the material. In any case not only are those hoses much cheaper than the Mercedes' parts, but they claim that the man-made material lasts much longer in service than natural rubber, and that's why I would give them a try. He is correct that the most difficult hose to replace is the one that attaches to the left (driver) side of the lower plastic intake duct on the rear of the engine, but still, you never have to remove the lower plastic intake duct (what he calls the elbow). You do have to remove the mass airflow (MAF) sensor though to get to that wonky piece he shows at 1:43 of this video, along with replacing the rubber seal between the MAF & the lower plastic intake piece. You can see him removing the MAF at 5:41 in this video. BTW, you won't be able to just lift it off easily like you see him doing if no one has removed it for 15+ years. You're gonna have to use significant force! That's why he recommends using silicone grease when you reassemble everything.
This is far from the best video on this topic, but I am faithfully posting every video 'MercedesSource' puts on YOUTUBE in his M112/M113 engine series. Replacing these hoses is a job I did personally along with resealing the breather covers. I took pictures trying to document the process online in this forum. There are 3 or 4 posts that begin with this one... https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post969044
So, would I do ANYTHING differently were I ever to do the job again? Yeah I would but I welcome any feedback on this. I used all genuine Mercedes-Benz parts which are made of actual rubber. There's at least one manufacturer who makes the hoses out of I think, viton; but I could be wrong about the material. In any case not only are those hoses much cheaper than the Mercedes' parts, but they claim that the man-made material lasts much longer in service than natural rubber, and that's why I would give them a try. He is correct that the most difficult hose to replace is the one that attaches to the left (driver) side of the lower plastic intake duct on the rear of the engine, but still, you never have to remove the lower plastic intake duct (what he calls the elbow). You do have to remove the mass airflow (MAF) sensor though to get to that wonky piece he shows at 1:43 of this video, along with replacing the rubber seal between the MAF & the lower plastic intake piece. You can see him removing the MAF at 5:41 in this video. BTW, you won't be able to just lift it off easily like you see him doing if no one has removed it for 15+ years. You're gonna have to use significant force! That's why he recommends using silicone grease when you reassemble everything.
Last edited by WD40; Jul 25, 2023 at 02:12 AM.
Rusty wheel mating surfaces
Why is this important? Because when you're on the side of the road, you want the wheel to come off, don't you? That's why you want to address this problem in your garage, where everything is to your advantage, and not on the roadside, where nothing is to your advantage. I did a very cursory job of this right after I got my car, and then did a pro job of it when I did a brake job. See here: https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post968532
The only difference from his video is that I didn't go back and wipe the anti-seize off. So when I first got my car I knew from past experience to check this, and 2 of the 4 wheels required the persuasion of a block of wood (to directly take the blow) and a sledgehammer to remove. I used this drill attachment which I already owned to remove the rust: It's design purpose is to remove stuck gasket material from aluminum or steel without eating into the metal, so it was almost perfect for removing much less dense oxidized iron from the denser "pure-metal" behind, and you don't need a wet surface. I addressed both the wheel & hub mating surfaces as he shows in this video, then sprayed it with brake cleaner so there was a clean surface before applying anti-seize.
Why is this important? Because when you're on the side of the road, you want the wheel to come off, don't you? That's why you want to address this problem in your garage, where everything is to your advantage, and not on the roadside, where nothing is to your advantage. I did a very cursory job of this right after I got my car, and then did a pro job of it when I did a brake job. See here: https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post968532
The only difference from his video is that I didn't go back and wipe the anti-seize off. So when I first got my car I knew from past experience to check this, and 2 of the 4 wheels required the persuasion of a block of wood (to directly take the blow) and a sledgehammer to remove. I used this drill attachment which I already owned to remove the rust: It's design purpose is to remove stuck gasket material from aluminum or steel without eating into the metal, so it was almost perfect for removing much less dense oxidized iron from the denser "pure-metal" behind, and you don't need a wet surface. I addressed both the wheel & hub mating surfaces as he shows in this video, then sprayed it with brake cleaner so there was a clean surface before applying anti-seize.
(replacing the) Lower intake seal. Also at 1:17---> you can see where the breather hoses attach to the intake manifold, so that any positive pressure trapped in the cylinder heads is returned to the intake manifold at that location.
Question. Is it possible for a mod to rename this thread something like "Crossfire Related Videos"? Or something like that. I'm open to suggestions.
YouTube Video with Celine Dion as Spokeperson for Chrysler. Shots of 2004 Crossfire scattered throughout. (Demo Version)
Last edited by dedwards0323; Aug 8, 2023 at 09:23 AM.
Chrysler Crossfire 30 second commercial with Celine Dion singing 'I Drove All Night'. Enjoy (I think the video shows Celine shifting gears on a manual. Looks like she goes over & up.)
Roy Orbison originally recorded the song but passed away before it could be released. Cyndi Lauper also released a video of the song.
I've got copy of the Chrysler Crossfire Experience CD. Celine Dion's full length video of the song is on the disc with shots of only the Crossfire scattered throughout.
Roy Orbison originally recorded the song but passed away before it could be released. Cyndi Lauper also released a video of the song.
I've got copy of the Chrysler Crossfire Experience CD. Celine Dion's full length video of the song is on the disc with shots of only the Crossfire scattered throughout.
Last edited by dedwards0323; Aug 8, 2023 at 10:02 AM.
NOT an M112/M113 engine-series video. This is one of Ken's ABC-suspension videos, which he's nearing the end of. In this series he compares the various Mercedes' suspensions of the 2000's era. His favorite is the Mercedes' Airmatic suspension. Airmatic is an air-suspension with a center-console button that I think, has 3 different settings you can choose from. Airmatic is not an "active" suspension like ABC is. Ken's advice on an ABC suspension car is to keep it until it requires you to spend big money to maintain. At that point he recommends getting a quality "mechanical" (not air) coil-spring kit and getting rid of the ABC-pump for a normal power-steering pump like the Crossfire has. Although it's possible to keep the ABC-pump Ken believes you'll gain about 20 horsepower by getting rid of it for the much smaller "PS only" pump (the ABC pump powers BOTH the active suspension plus the power-steering system). The reason the ABC pump is so large is not due to powering both systems, it's primarily because to have the quick reaction time an active suspension demands the hydraulic pressure must be extremely high, much higher than for a power-steering system alone. I forgot, Ken recommends getting a conversion-kit with adjustable shock absorbers, the kind you manually set at the top of the shock absorber. That way you can adjust the suspension to YOUR LIKING which might be totally different to someone else's. As ABC normally has a plush, luxurious ride until the logic tells it to firm-up, Ken recommends getting tires which have a softer-ride when doing the conversion. Anyway, Ken enjoyed to no end flooring the accelerator with his newly found 20 horsepower, and although he never mentions it, I am left wondering how much fuel mileage has improved without all that parasitic drag.
Last edited by WD40; Aug 11, 2023 at 03:50 PM.
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