Mobil1 0-40 at 53,000 miles
The valve covers I'm doing sure as stink didn't come from THAT engine.
Everybody repeat after me:
"Thou Shalt Not Sully Thine Engine With Non-Synthetic Oil. Ever".
"Amen".
Everybody repeat after me:
"Thou Shalt Not Sully Thine Engine With Non-Synthetic Oil. Ever".
"Amen".
Ha ha! Amen!
I would NEVER even CONSIDER such an idea!
Looks like you change your oil every 1,000 miles.... how long DO you let it go?
I can't bring myself to leave oil in there for 7500 miles... I change it at 5000 to 5500 - that seems long enough for me.
Mine has 92,000 on it, wonder what I'd see if I took the covers off.....
Mine has 92,000 on it, wonder what I'd see if I took the covers off.....
Amen to that. I met a Mobil rep while taking a state exam back in the 80's. Been using it in everything every since....My lawnmower even gets it....
And I change mine every 7500 as well...no problems. My old Vette I took the time to send in an oil sample with my oil samples from my big rig. It came back with oil change recommendations of 24000 miles, yes 24K... The truck came back at 12K for Shell Rotella... The big rig version of oil...and the truck was at 650,000 miles.
Bottom line is don't skimp on the oil...ever...
And I change mine every 7500 as well...no problems. My old Vette I took the time to send in an oil sample with my oil samples from my big rig. It came back with oil change recommendations of 24000 miles, yes 24K... The truck came back at 12K for Shell Rotella... The big rig version of oil...and the truck was at 650,000 miles.
Bottom line is don't skimp on the oil...ever...
Last edited by oledoc2u; Jun 30, 2013 at 08:22 AM.
BTW: In the pictures in post #1, you can see the Magnacore plug wires that I installed over a year ago.
EVERY STINKING ONE WAS NOT PROPERLY SEATED ON THE PLUG !
With the valve covers off, I was able to better access them and get them all seated.
Anybody got any advise for anyone installing these wires ( Rob ? ) and getting them to seat properly WITHOUT taking the valve covers off ?
( and before you ask, yes, I did use dielectric grease the first time, it's just that those rubber boots are so squiggly - reminds me of something else at my age )
EVERY STINKING ONE WAS NOT PROPERLY SEATED ON THE PLUG !
With the valve covers off, I was able to better access them and get them all seated.
Anybody got any advise for anyone installing these wires ( Rob ? ) and getting them to seat properly WITHOUT taking the valve covers off ?
( and before you ask, yes, I did use dielectric grease the first time, it's just that those rubber boots are so squiggly - reminds me of something else at my age )
Last edited by ala_xfire; Jul 13, 2013 at 09:29 AM.
I had an issue even with the standard plug wires when I changed to the colder plug and found the long handled bent needle nose pliers from Harbor Freight invaluable, both removing and installing the wires. On another note, did you all notice the swiss watch like construction of this fine engine? Sure doesn't look like my Mopars from the 60's, mostly stamped and definitely no roller bearings.
Mercedes M110 M112 M113 Spark Plug Boot Wire Wrench Remover Pulley Tool 17mm | eBay
These are all very over-priced (after all it's a wrench with a bend on the end) but they work quite well for both removal (you can use the top of the valve covers as a fulcrum to lever the stupid boots off) and installation since you have a more advantageous angle to push the boots on.
I suspect someone handy could either make a similar wrench or find a less overpriced version.
These are all very over-priced (after all it's a wrench with a bend on the end) but they work quite well for both removal (you can use the top of the valve covers as a fulcrum to lever the stupid boots off) and installation since you have a more advantageous angle to push the boots on.
I suspect someone handy could either make a similar wrench or find a less overpriced version.
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