Finally got around to posting this, exactly this time last year, I got my stereo system install. I live in a condo unit and do not have a car garage, so I wanted a STEALTH install. Well after a year, I have had no issues with anyone messing with my car or the stereo system. I also got the Viper alarm and did not want to carry two remotes, so I took 1 of 3 factory remotes that I received with my car apart and epoxy glued the small chip to the key and have had no problems after a year. I wanted the audio shop to make a fake radio face from the factory unit to cover the new Kenwood DVD unit, and this cost $80 to create. The audio tech had to dremel the face off then glue all the buttons on. Viewing in from the outside, the interior still looks factory.

I use to be a real bass head, twelve years ago I had one Kicker 18” woofer with an Autotek 600 watt amp and a measly Hifonics 160 watt amp on 2 sets of some cheap Infinity Reference 6.5 coaxials. Crazy bass, I hit 139db at a contest, but the mids and highs could not keep up with the bass.

Since our Crossfire's trunk has limited space for a large woofer, I went with a more balance audio system. I picked out JL Audio products, a set of XR 650-CSI components in front, a set of XR-650-CXI coaxials in rear, one 10W7 in custom ported box to JL specs (25W*11H*17D), one 500/1 and one 300/4 amps. I have the rear coaxials setup to only do midbass 80 Hz to 200 Hz. To my surprise this system hit 141db with the mids and highs sounding fantastic. Tight bass with a smaller woofer.

With the woofer box set in the trunk I still have the small compartment to store items and still able to store my laptop backpack or groceries on top of the box. Just wish the carpet was gray instead of black.

View more pictures in my Gallery.

 

Looks good. Have a couple of questions. Why the additional battery? Did you do anything to the original system? Did disconnect the rear speakers? I'm putting my system together. I've built the box for two JL 10w7 Plan to mount the JL 500/5 amp on the floor of the trunk.

 

You're not planning on powering two 10w7's with a 500/5 are you?
That amp is only 250w on the sub channel, nowhere near enough for two 10w7's...maybe, just maybe it would be enough for one.

I have the same amp and love it, but I'm only running one 8w7...for me its plenty of bass in this car. I guess I'm just getting old and care to blow out my ears anymore...I've been installing for a living, been doing it for 10+ years now.

I don't care to add the weight to the car making it slower and loosing truck space either...I'm more about good sound and going fast!

But if you really want to add all that sub bass, using two 10w7's will do it for SURE...but your going to need at the very least a 500/1 for just the subs.

 

Sorry i meant 500/1. The 500/1 will only power the subs and rear tweeters. I plan on leaving the oem system as is. Do you think it i'll work? I had originally thought of using only one 10w7. Do you think I should go back to that idea? Your input is welcomed. I would show you the box i've started if i could figure out how to up load photo.

 

Oledog,

I completely took the factory system out, including the factory amp which now stores the Kenwood brain in that location at the passenger foot area.

The additional battery is just for added power during high volume bass tracks, and also helps not to dim the lights while bassing.

The rear has a set of JL XR-650-CXI coaxial and it is setup to only do midbass 80 Hz to 200 Hz.

You will be more then happy with just one 10W7 firing rear on the 500/1 amp. Are you building a sealed box 2.5 cu. ft. for both 10W7? If so then the one 500/1 amp would be barely enough power, while a 1000/1 will be just right to shake your car to death and blow out your eardrums.

Again try only one 10W7 on the 500/1, sealed 1.25 or ported 1.5 before adding the port, which then made the ported box right around 1.9 cu. ft.

 

What I did was built a fiberglass backing across the back of the gas tank area. It is contoured to the hump in the back. The rest of the enclosure is wood. It will take about half of the trunk space. The box front will be straight. Had planned on porting. Is it required? The sub will be facing upward, with a slight angle. Two tweeters also mounted on the box, for some highs. The amp JL 500/5 will be mounted on the floor of trunk concealed. The addition battery is a great idea. I can put it in one of the compartments in trunk. What Do you think of keeping the existing speaker and amp?

 

What is up with the key? Is that the rfid chip strapped to it?
Thanks.

 

Yes that is the chip from inside the factory remote. I get tried of having two remotes because I got the Viper alarm system installed and took apart the factory remote. I tested placing the chip right next to the keyhole and this allow me to start the car, but once the key was taken out you could not arm the alarm because the chip was still there which mimics having the key there also. I then epoxy glue the chip on the base of the key and this works properly, so now I only have to carry around the Viper remote.

This chip on the key method is only if you install an aftermarket alarm system and do not want to carry 2 remotes around.

 

Are using the auto start function of the viper?

 

You do not have to port the box, a sealed box will sound more tight, but 3 db less than a ported box. I only ported the box to get an extra 3 db because I was using only 1 woofer, more bang out of a single woofer.

I would not want highs coming from behind me, mids and highs should be set in front of you. I know that in a 4 door sedan you have the rear speakers doing mids and highs coming behind you, but our car is a 2 door 2 seat and mids and highs will sound better coming from only the front, just my opinion.

With this amount of bass from the 10W7, the factory radio powering the factory front speaker may be lacking in volume while trying to keep up with the 10W7.

 

Hello Shade, thanks for your help. I decided to go with the two 10w7 JL audio, 500/5 amp, additional battery. The enclosure is the perfect size for both.

 

I decided not to use the auto start function because I do not have a garage. I park next to other cars and also it does not get cold enough in Houston to auto start the car to warm up, using the seat warmer is better.

 

Eracer76,

Is your 8W7 in a sealed around .9 cu. ft. or in a ported box tuned to ? Also did you make a normal box or a fiberglass box placed into the side of the trunk area? Do you have any pics so we can drool over? Thanks.

 

I formed the box using fiberglass to the firewall and tank. The sides and front of box are wood. The box is sealed. The box will only use about 4 inches of the trunk floor. I'm securing the amp on floor of trunk, the battery secured in fender well. A false floor will be placed over the amp and tool enclosure. Dropping the tweeter idea. Going to leave the factory speaker for now, change later if don't like sound. Also plan to install rear camera, in the plate holder.

 

Nice layout, can't wait to see the finish photo shots.
On any of your posts, click on User Gallery, then click on Upload Photos on the right side, then Browse to any of your pictures on your computer and Upload/Submit.

 

I have pics in a thread I started here, its nothing to really drool over though. Even though I've been installing for ever, I just care for the whole "custom" thing anymore on my own cars, nor do I have the time to do it.
That and I switch cars so often that its not worth it.

The box in mine is sealed to JL spec, I believe it is around .9 cu. ft. I can't remember for sure though.
The box is just normal 3/4" MDF and its only around 9" high and deep so it doesn't use up much truck space.
I just built it simple so I can remove the box when I haul things (I race R/C cars for a second hobby on the weekends). And I can remove it when I go to the drag strip to save some weight.

Here's the link to my thread with pics...
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ad.php?t=12288