Hi everybody....

FInally I'm working on my new stereo install..... you all already know how bad the factory stereo is..... No Ipod.... No fader...... No mp3..... bad sound.......Navegation sucks....

The only thing I have decided to keep was the stupid subwoofers... nothing fits in there....
Here is the problem....I have rewired everything....I put a New Stereo and New amplifier.....
When I got to connect the new wires to the factory subwoofers, they have 4 wires coming from the old amplifier for each subwoofer...... what do I do....

what I mean ...I'm running 2 cables for each subwoofer from my new amplifier, + and - this is the standard... but the subwoofers has 4 input...... this is so weird....... only see speakers with 2 wires... this stupid subwoofers has 4 ..........please help.... I'm..

 

go here if you have a mono amp

http://www.crutchfield.com/learningc...4%2Dohm%5Fmono

go here if you have a 2 channel amp

http://www.crutchfield.com/learningc...F4%2Dohm%5F2ch

go here if you have a 4 channel amp

http://www.crutchfield.com/learningc...F4%2Dohm%5F4ch

 

The rear subwoofers have dual voice coils. One pair of wires go to each coil. Each coil has its own amplfier in the original premium system.

 

Have you thought about 6 1/2 subs? Kicker makes a nice one that I've heard. A friend has a pair of them in a ported box in his Miata with a 400 Watt Kicker amp and they sound AWSOME! I would like to put them in my car. I think they will fit with a little effort.

BTW, I'm running a high quality Aftermarket Head Unit with the factory speaker and it sound fantastic. I think the front speakers are good enough. The subs actually sound really good with the aftermarket head unit, they jut need a little more juice. I think a good amp on them might work as well.

The Amp setup I had in mind was using a 4-Channel amp. The reason is the the dual voice coil subs. You can run each sub off one channel by connecting both voice coils to one channel. This of course creates a 2 ohm load on the amp with draws some more power out of it. So, you would be running each door off one channel and each sub off one channel in 2 ohms. It will work fine and may sound really good. So, if the factory subs don't do what you want, you haven't lost anything and you can jjust add an aftermarket sube later.

I hopoe that all made sense. I ramble sometimes.

 

Now I'm confused. Why do the subs have 2 voice coils? Do they run cooler that way?

 

Just my two cents...

I would leave the factory subs as-is/where-is and send a signal to them through the factory amp.

Then I would put a new sub in the rear compartment powered by your new power source. I am probably going to get another Basslink by Infinity. It's a self-contained, 200 watt powered sub that works really well for me in my other application.


Click for more info

 

No, Paul, there is no advantage in cooling. The original subs have two 2 ohm coils each to get more power into them. The original amplifier has a "balance" output and runs directly from battery with no step-up power supply, so it is about 35 Watts into 2 ohms for each channel. Thus each sub gets about 70 Watts.

"NeverEnough"'s says run "each door off one channel and each sub off one channel in 2 ohms". That doesn't add up. The two coils in parallel would be 1 ohm and in series 4 ohms. Better to put an amplifier on each coil as in the original set up. Take care, the original subs may fail with more than the original power.

"ppro" doesn't say where to get the signal for the Basslink. One way is to connect it to the signal to the original subs. This signal has the filtering assigned to the original subs. An alternative is to connect it to the output of the radio. This signal is not filtered.

 

I kept the orginal amp, but replaced everything else. New Kappa Component speakers make a big difference for the door speakers. I installed a separate amp for a 10" sub in the trunk, kept the original subs behind the seats but they do not seem to be doing very much now. Overall, the system sounds great, with some real punch.

 

Yes he does:

There are two options - either the new head unit has sub outputs (in which case they probably have High Pass Filters and Sub Cutoff options. Or out of the new power amp.

My plan is to go out from my head unit to my sub, bypassing altogether BOTH the factory amp and factory subs.

Since I'm working up the circuit drawing now, here's a preview:

This shows JUST the part added for the subwoofer circuit. Leads out from back of head unit (subwoofer or non-fading output)



And now the schematic for the part added to the factory head unit to power the Basslink. Head unit to Basslink leads showing high-level relationship.


And the details of the POWER connection on the Basslink:



Don't overthink this - it's two channels, power and a remote "on" lead plugged into a self-powered sub.

If you use unpowered subs and a separate amp, there would be signal leads from the separate amp, signal, power and remote "on" leads to the separate amp.

In both cases, the signal comes from the back of the head unit.

 

Updated schematic for sub (scroll to the right to see sub)

 

I dropped in the Basslink today. It went pretty quick. Nice to have a head unit with subwoofer outputs, High Pass and low Cutoff frequencies to allow for proper install and set up.

Just plugged left and right RCA's into the subwoofer output on the head unit, ran the remote power-on lead from the head unit, the power lead + from the battery through the firewall with 20A fuse at the battery, and a ground connected to the body behind the side panels in the rear, using the screw that holds the tail lamp to the body, all other wires from dash, under console to area behind seats, up and over the bulkhead and down to the subwoofer.

I think in order to secure the sub for better sound, I will cut a plywood panel that matches the size of the floor, carpet with with some similar material to what's in the car, and screw the subwoofer to that. The fix the plywood to the corners of the floor, hoping to conceal or at least minimize the screw holes in the factory floor panel.


Story

 

Will this fit in a roadster ?










Brand New INFINITY BASSLINK T 3 10" POWERED SUBS TRI ENCLOSURE 08
10" woofer and two 10" passive radiators
Class D 250-watt amplifier
compact polymer enclosure
wired volume control with 16-foot cable
frequency response 20-120 Hz
low-pass crossover variable from 50-120 Hz (at 12 dB per octave)
line-level inputs (remote turn on required)
speaker-level inputs with auto turn-on
phase control
bass boost adjusts from -6 dB to +3 dB at 40 Hz
25-amp fuse
40-1/4"W x 14-3/4"H x 6-1/2"(D1), 3-3/4"(D2)

 

Have you got a space that's 40-1/4"W x 14-3/4"H x 6-1/2"(D1), 3-3/4"(D2) ?

 

Just a word of advice, any subs you put in the trunk of a roadster will most likely disappoint you. There is just far too much material in between the trunk and the seating position to ever hear anything. You will be able to feel a little vibration when the top is up, but it's just not going to work. You are far better off fitting whatever 6.5" subs you can in the factory locations. Profit from my mistakes, been there done that.

These Kickers fit fine with a 1/2" spacer ring. They will surprise you with their output if you give them a decent amount of power. I am running two on a Crossfire Audio XP6004 4 channel amp along with components in the doors of my roadster and it sounds incredible.



http://www.crutchfield.com/S-T0Yz8s6...8C65VT4&tp=972
(if you look around a little, you can buy them for about half that Crutchfield price)

 

I don't own a Crossfire roadster so can't say for sure. But the Basslink in my Wrangler (yeah, I know, apples to oranges) is very audible and clean.

That's surprising because it's installed inside a small compartment way in the back of the vehicle - the only lockable space on the whole vehicle. There is no air passage to the seating area and yet you can here that sub just fine.

Remember, the low frequencies are not directional like the highs. Lots of subs get installed in trunks and sound great.

If you can find a way to try it before you buy it, that would answer your space question and the sound question. Don't forget the Basslink products have dedicated built-in amps so they're going to have plenty of power to make the sound.

Check the reviews on Amazon - there's a customer who installed it in a convertible (I think it was a Miata or something like that) and was very pleased - even surprised the stereo installer.

Just my two cents

 

Well, to my knowledge, the Miata doesn't have the gas tank between the trunk and the seating in a vertical format like our roadsters, plus the titanium (or whatever alloy it is) plate.

It didn't work in my roadster and I would be fairly shocked if anyone else was happy with it in theirs.

 

Same issue as the Viper, a fuel cell between the trunk and seating so trunk subs tend to be tame.

Guess you could go for a big mega amp and a 12" DVC thumper sub in the trunk

 

Click for Install

I made a new floor for the cargo compartment and put a 4-inch deep storage drawer under it. The existing floor isn't solid enough to bolt a powered subwoofer to.

I got the idea here and made some minor changes to suit my own needs. The floor just flips up (the sub is bolted to it) and there is the drawer.



Click for more pictures