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rear subs

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Old Nov 22, 2014 | 03:22 AM
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gig
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Default rear subs

question can i change my rear subs for regular speakers using the same wiring or will i just get bass from them
 
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Old Nov 22, 2014 | 10:09 AM
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Default Re: rear subs

Yeah, thats what I want to know too....
 
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Old Nov 22, 2014 | 11:44 AM
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Default Re: rear subs

While we are researching the oem 240w amp can I add two questions. How are the 240w divided over the 6 channels and how do these 240w compare to after market amps. I am thinking that some amps are peak at 10% distortion and some are 20 to 20k at 1%.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2014 | 11:53 AM
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They have a channel run to each voice coil on the subs, and we have dual voice coils so 4 channels are running to both rear subs.
If you change subs and put in normal speakers you will not get as much bass and will not get much of the midst and highs with the location.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2014 | 01:11 PM
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Default Re: rear subs

Originally Posted by Speedy4x4
They have a channel run to each voice coil on the subs, and we have dual voice coils so 4 channels are running to both rear subs.
If you change subs and put in normal speakers you will not get as much bass and will not get much of the midst and highs with the location.
Does this mean the output to the subs is full range?
 
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Old Nov 22, 2014 | 01:35 PM
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Default Re: rear subs

My adventures in reading here on the forum have led me to believe there is built in crossovers in the amp..
 
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Old Nov 22, 2014 | 03:39 PM
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Default Re: rear subs

Originally Posted by Mrmiata
My adventures in reading here on the forum have led me to believe there is built in crossovers in the amp..
You are correct. I used the finger on the cone test and the woofers drop off beginning about
80 and there is almost nothing after 100. There's a pretty good beat beginning at 20. Shame I can't here it. I have the nav unit bass set at 0.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2014 | 03:41 PM
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Default Re: rear subs

Originally Posted by Speedy4x4
They have a channel run to each voice coil on the subs, and we have dual voice coils so 4 channels are running to both rear subs.
If you change subs and put in normal speakers you will not get as much bass and will not get much of the midst and highs with the location.
does this mean if we put some bass heavy speakers here, that they will also power the tweeters too? I can't seem to find a sub to fit there that is worth putting in place.

Im ready to just put a BT rechargeable set of speakers in my car and call it a day. Who would have guess that chrysler/MB would put such an elaborate and expensive 2 ohm system in this car and have it sound like PURE T ****.

This structure is making it almost impossible to upgrade the system without a College degree in Audiology.

And i thought lowering the crossfire was hard........
 

Last edited by mobilefitt; Nov 24, 2014 at 03:14 PM.
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Old Nov 22, 2014 | 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by arejohn

Does this mean the output to the subs is full range?
No, that is just the power going to them, the frequency is adjusted.
But if subs are changes and single voicecoils subs installed, bridge the channels to get full power
 
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Old Nov 22, 2014 | 07:38 PM
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After reading padgett ' post and pics about the bulkhead I am wondering if 2-4 high excursion 6.5" or possible 8" in the top section of the bulkhead. Rear facing. And can be covered up by a luggage cover from peeping eyes

Read padgett ' s thread about modifying the bulkhead to get more seat room.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 03:19 PM
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Default Re: rear subs

so I found a dual voice coil sub that will fit and doesn't cost and a leg....but its 4 0hms.

someone correct me. dual coils means they will get all the sound and 4 ohms means at 1/2 the power.... so a 150watt sub will out put 75 watt on 2 ohm system.

if this is true, im going to order a couple of these and call it a day!

Pyle® PLPW6D - 6.5" 600W Dual Voice Coil 4 Ohm Subwoofer
 
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 04:27 PM
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Default Re: rear subs

Originally Posted by mobilefitt
so I found a dual voice coil sub that will fit and doesn't cost and a leg....but its 4 0hms.

someone correct me. dual coils means they will get all the sound and 4 ohms means at 1/2 the power.... so a 150watt sub will out put 75 watt on 2 ohm system.

if this is true, im going to order a couple of these and call it a day!

Pyle® PLPW6D - 6.5" 600W Dual Voice Coil 4 Ohm Subwoofer
mobilefitt: I have two of these subs...love them...Carl I think the price is hard to beat...
 
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 05:32 PM
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Default Re: rear subs

Google is our friend..


What is the advantage of dual voice coils?
The primary advantage of the dual voice coil speaker is wiring flexibility. A single dual voice coil driver offers the user three hookup choices...parallel, series and independent. In a parallel hook-up, the driver's impedance will be half that of each individual coil (a dual 4 ohm speaker would be a 2 ohm speaker in parallel). A series hook-up results in twice the impedance of each single coil (a dual 4 ohm speaker results in 8 ohms if its coils are wired in series). Finally, you can wire each voice coil to a separate channel of your amplifier, which can be useful if your amplifier is not mono-bridgeable, or if you are bridging a four channel amplifier down to two channels to run your sub.
The independent wiring application is the one that brought about the need for dual voice coil speakers in home audio. Unlike most good car amplifiers, home amplifiers and receivers are typically not mono-bridgeable. For this reason, dual voice coil woofers were developed so that a subwoofer or center speaker could be driven from the left and right channels of the average home stereo amp/receiver. Since sub-bass frequencies are hard to localize, the dual voice coil subwoofer allowed sub-bass reinforcement within one cabinet and one speaker. This cabinet could be placed inconspicuously in a corner or along a wall of the listening room. The obvious benefits to this are space-efficiency and lower cost than two independent bass cabinets or a larger cabinet with two subs in it. Many popular home subwoofer / satellite speaker systems still use this basic configuration.


Here's the link.. pretty good read...


http://www.jlaudio.com/header/Suppor...)+/287542#DVC3
 

Last edited by Mrmiata; Nov 24, 2014 at 05:58 PM.
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 11:03 AM
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Default Re: rear subs

guess I'll pull the trigger. Did you use the stock amp?
 
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 11:15 AM
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Default Re: rear subs

Originally Posted by mobilefitt
guess I'll pull the trigger. Did you use the stock amp?
Yes...Carl
 
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 12:15 PM
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Default Re: rear subs

Originally Posted by mobilefitt
guess I'll pull the trigger. Did you use the stock amp?
mobilefitt: I just posted that I did used the stock amp...however in talking with Mrmiata, he feels that the change to the 4 ohms subs could be the recent failure of my rear section of the amp..(.my rears stop working just recently )... so he is checking into the possibility that this change could be the cause for the failure of the stock amp....Carl
 
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 01:05 PM
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Default Re: rear subs

Well everything I'm seeing says you should be okay with it.. Just less volume output..


you can safely use a 2 ohm amp with one 4 ohm speaker, but you will not achieve full power.

The 2 ohm amp is designed to supply a certain voltage into a 2 ohm speaker. Supplying that same voltage to an 4 ohm speaker will result in half the power, or -3dB. For maximum power, use a 2 ohm speaker, or two 4 ohm speakers in parallel.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 05:22 PM
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Default Re: rear subs

so the rear amp failure was due to something other than using 4 ohm subs.

Perhaps using a head unit with fade control together with capacitor filters might be the cause of the failure?

Chris Sarbo
 
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 05:32 PM
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Default Re: rear subs

Originally Posted by mobilefitt
so the rear amp failure was due to something other than using 4 ohm subs.

Perhaps using a head unit with fade control together with capacitor filters might be the cause of the failure?

Chris Sarbo


He's running stock head unit.. I'm running a Clarion and door capacitors and have broke out the wiring at the amp input for rear fader control. No issues. May have just been "it's time"..


You do know you will have no fade control if you don't wire a new head units rear speaker channels in at the amp inputs.. right?
 
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 06:37 PM
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Default Re: rear subs

I must confess,when it comes to electronics such as head units, amps and such, I'm not in the "know".. But in this matter, I would like to interject some factors that might shed some light on the "cause" of failure: I like my music very loud; bassy, solid mids and crisp highs.
Do these factors push the amp/speakers too close to the edge? On a volume scale of 40(40 being very loud), I go to 33-35. I know this is too loud for some but this the level want!...So, I'm looking for an amp/speakers that will give me this level with a good chance of relatively low failure... Can this be achieved with the OEM amp with the current Pyle subs and Infinity door speakers, the latter of which I have 270 caps... Is the answer a more powerful amp??...Thanks all for the input...Carl
 
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