Trust me my friend.. Your not the only one pushing on the amp.. LOL. I did notice those are 15 dollar speakers though.. I would be real surprised if you could beat on them all you want and they keep on working. As I had suggested before.. if you can get your hands on some other speaker.. try it before going to the amp.


There are times you truly do get what you pay for.. LOL.

 

Hey, does anyone know which color wires green and gray are for positive and negative hookup on the sub speaker? Installing the pyles now.

 

4 wires and 2 coils. Red and black.... duh... but what about the green and the grey? Which is which?

 

Crossfire audio_diagram.pdf


AMP pin 10 - Right Sub input (+)
AMP pin 9 - Right Sub input (-)
AMP pin 1 - Left Door input (+)
AMP pin 2 - Left Door input (-)
AMP pin 8 - Left Sub input (+)
AMP pin 3 - Left Sub input (-)

 

Realizing that didn't exactly answer.. here is this..


https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...onnectors.html


And I'll let you carry on past that.. LOL..


CrossfireForum.org - Search Results

 

This is good info. I am working off the stock amp now. once i get my subs in, I may try to boost the bass with an additional amp or something. The 4 ohm dual coil sub from pyle seems to be doing its job. I have one stock sub and one pyle in place now. I wonder when I swap the other one if the stock amp will produce enough power to push the 300w subs I found on carid.

 

diagram looks good to except, I don't see gray or green as color options on the rear subs.

PK = pink???
dg= dark green??
bl= black ( i got this one)
br/rd = brown or red????


BL/RD = black /red ??
BK/YL = black / yellow ???
VT= Vermont??
RD/YL = Red and yellow??

and are they + or - ??

 

Someone else may know.. but as noted.. a volt meter will give you polarities on the wires. And you plan on running another pair of subs off the OEM amp? Don't know how that will work out since it's been noted as 240 watts total.

 

I am right now, working on correcting the stereo system in my 2005 Crossfire SRT6 Convertible.
I have the working radio, I am not sure if the amp works yet (as I have not re-connected it)
Some previous owner tried to install an after market stereo and amp. but all they did was Create
a huge mess. Nothing was working.
Never the less - they had removed the factory Subs and installed typical single coil speakers.
I am trying to 1) Find OEM Speakers ----- ANYONE HAVE A LEAD ON THES???
or 2) Figure out how to wire these speakers up. The original wire harness with the 4 leads is
still in tact. I just need so help as to which wires I can use? Or should I wait to find OEMs??
Help is appreciated,
Greg

 

Frankly, if the car is such a mess, you have the perfect opportunity to make things RIGHT.

I suggest you toss the factory amp and create your own four channel (8 wire) speaker lead feed from the new head unit to the new amp. That way, you get all the features of the head unit at the speakers, only at higher power than from the head alone. This way, you are free of the stupid - assed dual coil speakers. They did it all as cheap as they could, then they put dual coil speakers in, I suppose, just to make themselves feel better.

This would make the job way easier. It will be YOUR sound system, it will sound good and the headaches stop.

I did similar in my SE. The SE is a base so it had no rear speakers or amp. I put in a JVC head unit with 50 watts per channel, then got some speaker brackets out of a wrecked car, and added nice new Kenwood rear speakers.
The sound is WAY beyond what the factory gave me. I have control of the rear speakers and selected the mode in the head that makes them essentially woofers only.

I did not put an amp in, as 50 watts per channel is enough for me. You may be different, maybe you need 200 watts per channel.

Finding dual coil speakers that FIT is a royal PITA.