Interesting Crossfire Pricing
Originally Posted by Shakey
I'm not going to argue price because it no longer concerns me, but here's my .02 as a buyer who just paid real cash for a car:
I saw deals at dealers, actual cash changing hands that I passed on, at $15,250 (for a 1-owner, 38,000 mile car, no less). I saw another at $16,000. That tells me that those auction prices are very accurate, as in, those are the trade-in prices dealers are willing to pay. They then add their mark-up, and get to the range of $15-16. I didn't see one sell, at a dealer or private party, anywhere close to NADA/KBB. But I also didn't talk to people asking those prices because I saw those deals as more trouble than they were worth.
I ended up with aero blue, not my first choice, but gray was becoming more trouble to find than it was worth. From my experience, older gentlemen preferred aero blue, so those cars were less likely to be modified and abused. Younger guys tend to like black and gray, and I only found one that was not modified. I preferred an unmodified car, and I found one.
I saw deals at dealers, actual cash changing hands that I passed on, at $15,250 (for a 1-owner, 38,000 mile car, no less). I saw another at $16,000. That tells me that those auction prices are very accurate, as in, those are the trade-in prices dealers are willing to pay. They then add their mark-up, and get to the range of $15-16. I didn't see one sell, at a dealer or private party, anywhere close to NADA/KBB. But I also didn't talk to people asking those prices because I saw those deals as more trouble than they were worth.
I ended up with aero blue, not my first choice, but gray was becoming more trouble to find than it was worth. From my experience, older gentlemen preferred aero blue, so those cars were less likely to be modified and abused. Younger guys tend to like black and gray, and I only found one that was not modified. I preferred an unmodified car, and I found one.
OooooooohKay.
Originally Posted by Franc Rauscher
Older guys like aero blue......
OooooooohKay.
OooooooohKay.
As an interesting note, aero blue was also slightly cheaper to insure. I wonder if that has something to do with the older guys preferring them...
Originally Posted by Shakey
Prove me wrong. You've been awfully contrarian to not just me in this thread, yet you've offered absolutely nothing to support your opposite conclusions on price, and now for some reason, color.
As an interesting note, aero blue was also slightly cheaper to insure. I wonder if that has something to do with the older guys preferring them...
As an interesting note, aero blue was also slightly cheaper to insure. I wonder if that has something to do with the older guys preferring them...
Nothing contrarian about making contributions to a thread. Otherwise what is the point of having a discussion? You seem to think buying one car makes you expert enough to contribute yours.
As for my opinions and advice, they come from being on both sides of the car sellin' industry. And are likely as worthwhile as anybody's.
Take them or leave as you like but insults accomplish nothing.
I paid a lot less than you did on a 35K mile SRT back when they were newer and sellin' for much more.The other SRT in the stable was about the same as you paid, but bought over two years ago. It came with lots of extra's. I also paid $7,800 for an '04 red 6spd coupe for a friend.
My Roadster was brand new and when I paid $21K for it, they were selling for $30K.
Proves nothing but my ability to understand and take advantage of an opportunity.
As for you, I've done nothing but compliment and encourage you here.
Prove otherwise.
Roadster with a stick
BTW, the title for my "extra" SRT came early last week. No issues at all.
Last edited by Franc Rauscher; Jul 6, 2011 at 12:32 AM.
Originally Posted by Akers04Coupe
Nope, you can think that all you want. Auction is REAL money in the car business, always has been always will be...Ebay ANYONE with a CPU can bid, and sometimes this can frustrating wasting your time.
Now with that being said another thing is and ALWAYS will be true. There is always a buyer at a price for EVERY car, some will pay more to get what they want. That also will never change, but dont be mistaken about the facts
Now with that being said another thing is and ALWAYS will be true. There is always a buyer at a price for EVERY car, some will pay more to get what they want. That also will never change, but dont be mistaken about the facts
I once heard it said that a car was worth whatever someone was willing to pay for it. When I got out of the Army in 1969 I went into sales. Over the next 35 years I was always on straight commission, no salary, no draw etc. I can tell you from experiance that price has very little to do with sales.
Originally Posted by m3pig
Well, granted, I'm not 'in the car business'. I'm in the real world of people who actually buy these cars....from people, not dealer auctions with the lowball prices dealers have to pay for any car in order to make a profit. These auctions are not the 'real money' in the car business...retail is. Please, don't YOU be mistaken about the facts.
) they will be going to or having a friend in the business buy them a car at an auction. Retail is NOT real money, no one buys a car at retail unless there a laydown...to be perfectly honest with the internet and aggressive advertising by dealers retail sales NEVER happen anymore.I am in the business in the finance side of it and trust me you guys have no idea how hard it is to make people understand these things now....
Originally Posted by Akers04Coupe
NOPE...real money is what a car is can be bought for with cash, RETAIL is what a BANK will loan on a car. If someone is paying CASH this is what the car will sell for, lets get real if someone is paying cash and has CASH (i also like how some people come and say "i am paying cash", then take a deal sheet to there credit union
) they will be going to or having a friend in the business buy them a car at an auction. Retail is NOT real money, no one buys a car at retail unless there a laydown...to be perfectly honest with the internet and aggressive advertising by dealers retail sales NEVER happen anymore.
I am in the business in the finance side of it and trust me you guys have no idea how hard it is to make people understand these things now....
) they will be going to or having a friend in the business buy them a car at an auction. Retail is NOT real money, no one buys a car at retail unless there a laydown...to be perfectly honest with the internet and aggressive advertising by dealers retail sales NEVER happen anymore.I am in the business in the finance side of it and trust me you guys have no idea how hard it is to make people understand these things now....
Perhaps you mean "list price" or Sticker price.
In any event, that is not news. Cars have traditionaly never sold for sticker.
Perhaps your daily experiences with the general buying public gives you this low perspective of consumer stupity but please, don't apply it to folks here.I'm sure there may be a git or two amoung us but most of the guys here are fairly saavy about buying cars
The list you posted if very helpful. But it only gives us a narrow, momentary view into the current wholesale/retail pricing. Every dealer is different, every customer is different, every deal is different.
Buying a car is not exactly like going to WalMart.
roadster with a stick
Originally Posted by Franc Rauscher
Well yeah. Especialy since it would seem you have re-invented the definition of the word "retail."
Perhaps you mean "list price" or Sticker price.
In any event, that is not news. Cars have traditionaly never sold for sticker.
Perhaps your daily experiences with the general buying public gives you this low perspective of consumer stupity but please, don't apply it to folks here.I'm sure there may be a git or two amoung us but most of the guys here are fairly saavy about buying cars
The list you posted if very helpful. But it only gives us a narrow, momentary view into the current wholesale/retail pricing. Every dealer is different, every customer is different, every deal is different.
Buying a car is not exactly like going to WalMart.
roadster with a stick
Perhaps you mean "list price" or Sticker price.
In any event, that is not news. Cars have traditionaly never sold for sticker.
Perhaps your daily experiences with the general buying public gives you this low perspective of consumer stupity but please, don't apply it to folks here.I'm sure there may be a git or two amoung us but most of the guys here are fairly saavy about buying cars
The list you posted if very helpful. But it only gives us a narrow, momentary view into the current wholesale/retail pricing. Every dealer is different, every customer is different, every deal is different.
Buying a car is not exactly like going to WalMart.
roadster with a stick
Franc if you met me believe me we could have a freindly debate for a while
Originally Posted by Akers04Coupe
What I posted is REALITY its hard for your guys that are enthusiast to see this and I understand, I am a multiple xfire owner and believe me I am shocked to see this 40k car (when it was new only a few years back) being less than 10k in some instances. No my exp with the general public is NOT giving me a low perspective, most people with sub par intelligence STILL have access to the internet and know what they can get a car for, its reality. In time EVERYTHING will be done before people even get to a dealership...In some markets you can even "efile" your paperwork and pick up your vehicle with only a handshake person.
Franc if you met me believe me we could have a freindly debate for a while
you wouldnt believe some of the things I have seen in this busines... 
Franc if you met me believe me we could have a freindly debate for a while
My apologies.
I bought cars years ago when credit was different, I made two or three phone calls and picked up the car with little more than a handshake. Long before Al Gore invented the Internet.
I am also old enough to remember closing on a house with less than five documents to sign.
I seriously doubt, even with E-file and internet access we will ever get to that.
In the end, car sales are not all that different than the fifties, or the seventies, the nineties. Two people haggle over what one must get for a product and the other must give up to drive their current dream. When it is no longer that, half the fun, mystic and pleasure of buying a car will be gone.
roadster with a stick
Last edited by Franc Rauscher; Jul 6, 2011 at 04:46 PM.
Originally Posted by Akers04Coupe
NOPE...real money is what a car is can be bought for with cash, RETAIL is what a BANK will loan on a car. If someone is paying CASH this is what the car will sell for, lets get real if someone is paying cash and has CASH (i also like how some people come and say "i am paying cash", then take a deal sheet to there credit union
) they will be going to or having a friend in the business buy them a car at an auction. Retail is NOT real money, no one buys a car at retail unless there a laydown...to be perfectly honest with the internet and aggressive advertising by dealers retail sales NEVER happen anymore.
I am in the business in the finance side of it and trust me you guys have no idea how hard it is to make people understand these things now....
) they will be going to or having a friend in the business buy them a car at an auction. Retail is NOT real money, no one buys a car at retail unless there a laydown...to be perfectly honest with the internet and aggressive advertising by dealers retail sales NEVER happen anymore.I am in the business in the finance side of it and trust me you guys have no idea how hard it is to make people understand these things now....
I need to note a few things about your statements.
First, I can't think of a single bank that is using MMR right now to value vehicles. Ally had a 10% market share last month and they used NADA Clean Trade (NOT retail). Many of the CU are using NADA Retail right now, but that won't last for long. My bank uses Clean Black Book. Chase was using MMR in 2008, but they are also back to NADA.
Second, you mentioned that you just tell your cash buyers to take the buyer's order to the CU. You wouldn't have lasted very long in any dealership that I have run & if you are a F&I manager then your PVR must be in the toilet. Why in the world would you send a potential conversion customer to a credit union to use their money when you can beat a CU rates on prime customers right now. BB&T is doing 2.5% @ 72mo on cars right now & they are allowing 2 points of participation! Why would you give that money away???
Third, I am sure you are aware the illusion of a cash deal being better is about 20 years in the past. I was always less likely to deal on a cash customer (unless it was an aged unit that my floor plan was getting pricey on) because I knew that I probably wouldn't have another bite at the apple to make more money. No finance reserve, probably no products and typically poor surveys. Best way to buy a car right now is to know what your private financing rates would be, let them load your trade refusing any cash down & then in the box add any cash down you might have + give the F&I manager a chance to beat/match your private financing rates. You will always get the best deal that way because it encourages the dealership to overpump your trade & lets them think they can get reserve money. They are more likely to decrease the price of the purchase unit.
Fourth, retail is NOT what banks will pay for a car. There are many formulas that come into play with what a bank will advance, but the basic theory is credit + income + DTI + PTI + CBB/NADA Clean Trade=% of advance. There can also be allowances based on trade equity vs inequity & rebates. This also doesn't take into account backend allowance. There is a reason why every bank has a matrix & debt calculators.
I know you said that no one pays retail for cars at all, but I never found that to be true. I just always followed the price/value theory and built the value in my cars. I also told my sales people that it doesn't take a sales person to sell a MB S550 - that car sells itself. A real salesperson can make someone happy that they are driving home in a 5 year old Kia Rio with crank windows.
Maybe things are a little different in the state work in, but I have worked in FL, GA, CA, TX, NM, AZ. I have always been told that TX, FL, & CA are the NFL of the car business.
PS - Franc - I can still get you out the door with 5 pieces of paper on a cash deal down here!!!
Originally Posted by KimPossible
I will tell you - I DO work in the car business. I currently am a branch manager and senior credit buyer for an national auto finance company. I have previously been a BDC manager, F&I Director, Used Car Manager, General Sales Manager and General Manager for dealerships from Florida to California. I have been in the car business for over a decade and my dad was in for 30 years before me. I guess I would qualify as an expert in the car business.
I need to note a few things about your statements.
First, I can't think of a single bank that is using MMR right now to value vehicles. Ally had a 10% market share last month and they used NADA Clean Trade (NOT retail). Many of the CU are using NADA Retail right now, but that won't last for long. My bank uses Clean Black Book. Chase was using MMR in 2008, but they are also back to NADA.
Second, you mentioned that you just tell your cash buyers to take the buyer's order to the CU. You wouldn't have lasted very long in any dealership that I have run & if you are a F&I manager then your PVR must be in the toilet. Why in the world would you send a potential conversion customer to a credit union to use their money when you can beat a CU rates on prime customers right now. BB&T is doing 2.5% @ 72mo on cars right now & they are allowing 2 points of participation! Why would you give that money away???
Third, I am sure you are aware the illusion of a cash deal being better is about 20 years in the past. I was always less likely to deal on a cash customer (unless it was an aged unit that my floor plan was getting pricey on) because I knew that I probably wouldn't have another bite at the apple to make more money. No finance reserve, probably no products and typically poor surveys. Best way to buy a car right now is to know what your private financing rates would be, let them load your trade refusing any cash down & then in the box add any cash down you might have + give the F&I manager a chance to beat/match your private financing rates. You will always get the best deal that way because it encourages the dealership to overpump your trade & lets them think they can get reserve money. They are more likely to decrease the price of the purchase unit.
Fourth, retail is NOT what banks will pay for a car. There are many formulas that come into play with what a bank will advance, but the basic theory is credit + income + DTI + PTI + CBB/NADA Clean Trade=% of advance. There can also be allowances based on trade equity vs inequity & rebates. This also doesn't take into account backend allowance. There is a reason why every bank has a matrix & debt calculators.
I know you said that no one pays retail for cars at all, but I never found that to be true. I just always followed the price/value theory and built the value in my cars. I also told my sales people that it doesn't take a sales person to sell a MB S550 - that car sells itself. A real salesperson can make someone happy that they are driving home in a 5 year old Kia Rio with crank windows.
Maybe things are a little different in the state work in, but I have worked in FL, GA, CA, TX, NM, AZ. I have always been told that TX, FL, & CA are the NFL of the car business.
PS - Franc - I can still get you out the door with 5 pieces of paper on a cash deal down here!!!
I need to note a few things about your statements.
First, I can't think of a single bank that is using MMR right now to value vehicles. Ally had a 10% market share last month and they used NADA Clean Trade (NOT retail). Many of the CU are using NADA Retail right now, but that won't last for long. My bank uses Clean Black Book. Chase was using MMR in 2008, but they are also back to NADA.
Second, you mentioned that you just tell your cash buyers to take the buyer's order to the CU. You wouldn't have lasted very long in any dealership that I have run & if you are a F&I manager then your PVR must be in the toilet. Why in the world would you send a potential conversion customer to a credit union to use their money when you can beat a CU rates on prime customers right now. BB&T is doing 2.5% @ 72mo on cars right now & they are allowing 2 points of participation! Why would you give that money away???
Third, I am sure you are aware the illusion of a cash deal being better is about 20 years in the past. I was always less likely to deal on a cash customer (unless it was an aged unit that my floor plan was getting pricey on) because I knew that I probably wouldn't have another bite at the apple to make more money. No finance reserve, probably no products and typically poor surveys. Best way to buy a car right now is to know what your private financing rates would be, let them load your trade refusing any cash down & then in the box add any cash down you might have + give the F&I manager a chance to beat/match your private financing rates. You will always get the best deal that way because it encourages the dealership to overpump your trade & lets them think they can get reserve money. They are more likely to decrease the price of the purchase unit.
Fourth, retail is NOT what banks will pay for a car. There are many formulas that come into play with what a bank will advance, but the basic theory is credit + income + DTI + PTI + CBB/NADA Clean Trade=% of advance. There can also be allowances based on trade equity vs inequity & rebates. This also doesn't take into account backend allowance. There is a reason why every bank has a matrix & debt calculators.
I know you said that no one pays retail for cars at all, but I never found that to be true. I just always followed the price/value theory and built the value in my cars. I also told my sales people that it doesn't take a sales person to sell a MB S550 - that car sells itself. A real salesperson can make someone happy that they are driving home in a 5 year old Kia Rio with crank windows.
Maybe things are a little different in the state work in, but I have worked in FL, GA, CA, TX, NM, AZ. I have always been told that TX, FL, & CA are the NFL of the car business.
PS - Franc - I can still get you out the door with 5 pieces of paper on a cash deal down here!!!
I am interested in changing the Extra Coupe out for a ragtop.
As for getting me out the door, No hurry please. I might want to offer a drink some conversation and a smile or two before I leave.
Last edited by Franc Rauscher; Jul 7, 2011 at 05:24 PM.
Originally Posted by KimPossible
I will tell you - I DO work in the car business. I currently am a branch manager and senior credit buyer for an national auto finance company. I have previously been a BDC manager, F&I Director, Used Car Manager, General Sales Manager and General Manager for dealerships from Florida to California. I have been in the car business for over a decade and my dad was in for 30 years before me. I guess I would qualify as an expert in the car business.
I need to note a few things about your statements.
First, I can't think of a single bank that is using MMR right now to value vehicles. Ally had a 10% market share last month and they used NADA Clean Trade (NOT retail). Many of the CU are using NADA Retail right now, but that won't last for long. My bank uses Clean Black Book. Chase was using MMR in 2008, but they are also back to NADA.
Second, you mentioned that you just tell your cash buyers to take the buyer's order to the CU. You wouldn't have lasted very long in any dealership that I have run & if you are a F&I manager then your PVR must be in the toilet. Why in the world would you send a potential conversion customer to a credit union to use their money when you can beat a CU rates on prime customers right now. BB&T is doing 2.5% @ 72mo on cars right now & they are allowing 2 points of participation! Why would you give that money away???
Third, I am sure you are aware the illusion of a cash deal being better is about 20 years in the past. I was always less likely to deal on a cash customer (unless it was an aged unit that my floor plan was getting pricey on) because I knew that I probably wouldn't have another bite at the apple to make more money. No finance reserve, probably no products and typically poor surveys. Best way to buy a car right now is to know what your private financing rates would be, let them load your trade refusing any cash down & then in the box add any cash down you might have + give the F&I manager a chance to beat/match your private financing rates. You will always get the best deal that way because it encourages the dealership to overpump your trade & lets them think they can get reserve money. They are more likely to decrease the price of the purchase unit.
Fourth, retail is NOT what banks will pay for a car. There are many formulas that come into play with what a bank will advance, but the basic theory is credit + income + DTI + PTI + CBB/NADA Clean Trade=% of advance. There can also be allowances based on trade equity vs inequity & rebates. This also doesn't take into account backend allowance. There is a reason why every bank has a matrix & debt calculators.
I know you said that no one pays retail for cars at all, but I never found that to be true. I just always followed the price/value theory and built the value in my cars. I also told my sales people that it doesn't take a sales person to sell a MB S550 - that car sells itself. A real salesperson can make someone happy that they are driving home in a 5 year old Kia Rio with crank windows.
Maybe things are a little different in the state work in, but I have worked in FL, GA, CA, TX, NM, AZ. I have always been told that TX, FL, & CA are the NFL of the car business.
PS - Franc - I can still get you out the door with 5 pieces of paper on a cash deal down here!!!
I need to note a few things about your statements.
First, I can't think of a single bank that is using MMR right now to value vehicles. Ally had a 10% market share last month and they used NADA Clean Trade (NOT retail). Many of the CU are using NADA Retail right now, but that won't last for long. My bank uses Clean Black Book. Chase was using MMR in 2008, but they are also back to NADA.
Second, you mentioned that you just tell your cash buyers to take the buyer's order to the CU. You wouldn't have lasted very long in any dealership that I have run & if you are a F&I manager then your PVR must be in the toilet. Why in the world would you send a potential conversion customer to a credit union to use their money when you can beat a CU rates on prime customers right now. BB&T is doing 2.5% @ 72mo on cars right now & they are allowing 2 points of participation! Why would you give that money away???
Third, I am sure you are aware the illusion of a cash deal being better is about 20 years in the past. I was always less likely to deal on a cash customer (unless it was an aged unit that my floor plan was getting pricey on) because I knew that I probably wouldn't have another bite at the apple to make more money. No finance reserve, probably no products and typically poor surveys. Best way to buy a car right now is to know what your private financing rates would be, let them load your trade refusing any cash down & then in the box add any cash down you might have + give the F&I manager a chance to beat/match your private financing rates. You will always get the best deal that way because it encourages the dealership to overpump your trade & lets them think they can get reserve money. They are more likely to decrease the price of the purchase unit.
Fourth, retail is NOT what banks will pay for a car. There are many formulas that come into play with what a bank will advance, but the basic theory is credit + income + DTI + PTI + CBB/NADA Clean Trade=% of advance. There can also be allowances based on trade equity vs inequity & rebates. This also doesn't take into account backend allowance. There is a reason why every bank has a matrix & debt calculators.
I know you said that no one pays retail for cars at all, but I never found that to be true. I just always followed the price/value theory and built the value in my cars. I also told my sales people that it doesn't take a sales person to sell a MB S550 - that car sells itself. A real salesperson can make someone happy that they are driving home in a 5 year old Kia Rio with crank windows.
Maybe things are a little different in the state work in, but I have worked in FL, GA, CA, TX, NM, AZ. I have always been told that TX, FL, & CA are the NFL of the car business.
PS - Franc - I can still get you out the door with 5 pieces of paper on a cash deal down here!!!
I am interested in changing the Extra Coupe out for a ragtop.
As for getting me out the door, No hurry please. I might want to offer a drink some conversation and a smile or two before I leave.
Your company is always a pleasure.
Last edited by Franc Rauscher; Jul 7, 2011 at 05:25 PM.
I think Kim is the expert here and her words are the real deal.
I have also spent some time with Kim while in Florida and at a few other GTG's and I assure everyone she is very intelligent at the top of her game and knows the car business.
It is good to know people like Kim and I'm happy to have met her and have developed a friendship with her.
Gary
I have also spent some time with Kim while in Florida and at a few other GTG's and I assure everyone she is very intelligent at the top of her game and knows the car business.
It is good to know people like Kim and I'm happy to have met her and have developed a friendship with her.
Gary
Originally Posted by Akers04Coupe
I am in the business in the finance side of it and trust me you guys have no idea how hard it is to make people understand these things now....
I'll stick with Kim on this one.
Originally Posted by danimal
A little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing. I'm picturing used cars, a dirt lot, and your first sales job. 
I'll stick with Kim on this one.
I'll stick with Kim on this one.
I remember how good it felt when I got promoted from the dirt lot up to the gravel one! Not much more money but like da boss said at least now you're outta da mud!
Thanks guys!!! You are making me blush!!
Everyone has to start somewhere in the business. My first job was selling cars at a Honda store. I have always worked for large dealerships groups but many of my dealership customers now are independent dealers.
Everyone has to start somewhere in the business. My first job was selling cars at a Honda store. I have always worked for large dealerships groups but many of my dealership customers now are independent dealers.
Originally Posted by danimal
A little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing. I'm picturing used cars, a dirt lot, and your first sales job. 
I'll stick with Kim on this one.
I'll stick with Kim on this one.
I DONT work at a buy here/pay here place guys...
Kim is right and she knows her stuff HOWEVER, every market is different and being in TN I can assure you when we get a 620 credit score in my market we do cartwheels...
We also dont carry lines of product like Kim mentioned (no 100K cars) so our market is more of a 400 a month car payment when they finance.
Lenders SUCK now, making it nearly impossible to get a deal funded. If you printer is off 1 mm on a contract they kick it back and you have to redo the entire thing. The joys of the car business
Kim do you have any leads for some good subprime lenders?...I need some
I love it!
Hope you boys enjoyed the cold crow.
Kim, you da man...uh.... you da best.
roadster with a stick
Hope you boys enjoyed the cold crow.
Kim, you da man...uh.... you da best.
roadster with a stick
Last edited by Franc Rauscher; Jul 13, 2011 at 08:11 AM.
Originally Posted by Akers04Coupe
I have knowledge and work for the BIGGEST dealer who has 8 lines of product (over 6 PAVED lots) in TN with over 1000 used cars in inventory..
I DONT work at a buy here/pay here place guys...
Kim is right and she knows her stuff HOWEVER, every market is different and being in TN I can assure you when we get a 620 credit score in my market we do cartwheels...
We also dont carry lines of product like Kim mentioned (no 100K cars) so our market is more of a 400 a month car payment when they finance.
Lenders SUCK now, making it nearly impossible to get a deal funded. If you printer is off 1 mm on a contract they kick it back and you have to redo the entire thing. The joys of the car business
Kim do you have any leads for some good subprime lenders?...I need some
I DONT work at a buy here/pay here place guys...
Kim is right and she knows her stuff HOWEVER, every market is different and being in TN I can assure you when we get a 620 credit score in my market we do cartwheels...
We also dont carry lines of product like Kim mentioned (no 100K cars) so our market is more of a 400 a month car payment when they finance.
Lenders SUCK now, making it nearly impossible to get a deal funded. If you printer is off 1 mm on a contract they kick it back and you have to redo the entire thing. The joys of the car business
Kim do you have any leads for some good subprime lenders?...I need some



