Difficulty Starting + Solution & Dealer Fix
I'm glad you guys are up on this stuff, because I don't think it was the fuel pump. It was replaced by the dealer and that same day I had the long start up problem again. I'll pursue the crank sensor now I guess.
Try this number.
We are offering 20% off msrp this month on crossfire parts and cost on shipping we ship ups.... let me know what you need pm me on this site or call 214-443-6926 my name is Ferris
We are offering 20% off msrp this month on crossfire parts and cost on shipping we ship ups.... let me know what you need pm me on this site or call 214-443-6926 my name is Ferris
Did anyone ever find a remedy for the excessive-crank issue? I'd like to get mine fixed before the warranty runs out, but my dealer says there is nothing wrong because it doesn't throw any codes.
Just had mine in for warranty service before it ran out...one of my issues was difficulty starting when warm. If I stopped to run into a store, it would take 15-20 seconds of cranking to finally start - no lights or codes. The dealer said it was the fuel pump-they replaced it and the fuel filter. It has been 3 weeks since I got my car back and I can safely say the problem has been fixed. It lights off after 2 or 3 cranks every time now, no matter the temp or how long it's been sitting...
anybody else figure out a fix for this issue? My car cranks and starts fine when cold, but when left for 10 minutes or so, it will just crank and crank without firing. If I turn the key off and try it again, it works fine.
I'm hesitant to replace anything since the car only as 1000 Miles on it and had 400 miles when I got it. No warranty left, Manual transmission. It's kind of embarassing when it happens.
I'm hesitant to replace anything since the car only as 1000 Miles on it and had 400 miles when I got it. No warranty left, Manual transmission. It's kind of embarassing when it happens.
Jesticle:
It's probably either the Crank Position Sensor ($39 at Autohaus in Arizona), bad solder joints on the RCM or POSSIBLY you have an original Varta battery (or some other old, bad battery) and the computer doesn't like SOMETHING it is seeing during startup.
I'd do the RCM fix first, then the CPS then battery. I also wouldn't waste time at the dealer with an intermittent problem. The RCM fix is easy and tighd1 even has a $10 exchange program now!
Start here for the RCM: Get a replacement RCM for $10!
It's probably either the Crank Position Sensor ($39 at Autohaus in Arizona), bad solder joints on the RCM or POSSIBLY you have an original Varta battery (or some other old, bad battery) and the computer doesn't like SOMETHING it is seeing during startup.
I'd do the RCM fix first, then the CPS then battery. I also wouldn't waste time at the dealer with an intermittent problem. The RCM fix is easy and tighd1 even has a $10 exchange program now!
Start here for the RCM: Get a replacement RCM for $10!
If it cranks then it's not the usual RCM problem.
Wondering if our fuel filters have a check valve that is supposed to hold pressure in the fuel lines and that check valve isn't working, allowing the fuel pressure to drop. That would explain why it take a crank or two to get started.
First couple of cranks to build up fuel pressure then start after pressure is up.
My thoughts without being there to check.
Wondering if our fuel filters have a check valve that is supposed to hold pressure in the fuel lines and that check valve isn't working, allowing the fuel pressure to drop. That would explain why it take a crank or two to get started.
First couple of cranks to build up fuel pressure then start after pressure is up.
My thoughts without being there to check.
You could try turning it on for 10 or 15 seconds,WITHOUT trying to crank....that will get the fuel pump putting fuel pressure up... turn it off and then try to start it normally...I think it was Rob that mentioned that in another thread....
If it cranks and dosent start, it is likely the crank position sensor.... the camshaft position sensor will give the same symptom, but I havent heard of one going bad yet.... are you getting any codes? Usually you will get a CEL and a code(P0335 for crank sensonr) if it cranks and dosent start...
If it cranks and dosent start, it is likely the crank position sensor.... the camshaft position sensor will give the same symptom, but I havent heard of one going bad yet.... are you getting any codes? Usually you will get a CEL and a code(P0335 for crank sensonr) if it cranks and dosent start...
Originally Posted by MikeR
It is located on the back of the engine, drivers side, just above the bell housing. You need to take the drivers side intake off to have a nice clean look at it. MikeR
I alleviated the frequency of the problem by turning the key on for a few seconds before starting the car, but that didn't eliminate it all together.
Dealer kept saying they couldn't replicate the problem (as usual).
My fuel pump started leaking fuel, and the dealer had to replace it. Since then, I have had no problems with the excessive crank issue.
So the problem I had appears to have had something to do with the fuel pump.
Dealer kept saying they couldn't replicate the problem (as usual).
My fuel pump started leaking fuel, and the dealer had to replace it. Since then, I have had no problems with the excessive crank issue.
So the problem I had appears to have had something to do with the fuel pump.
Originally Posted by Ringmaster
I alleviated the frequency of the problem by turning the key on for a few seconds before starting the car, but that didn't eliminate it all together.
Dealer kept saying they couldn't replicate the problem (as usual).
My fuel pump started leaking fuel, and the dealer had to replace it. Since then, I have had no problems with the excessive crank issue.
So the problem I had appears to have had something to do with the fuel pump.
Dealer kept saying they couldn't replicate the problem (as usual).
My fuel pump started leaking fuel, and the dealer had to replace it. Since then, I have had no problems with the excessive crank issue.
So the problem I had appears to have had something to do with the fuel pump.
I think I'll order up a fuel pump and replace the fuel filter while I'm at it. Is it an in-tank or in-line fuel pump?
Ringmaster, DJ was probably correct... the filter wasnt keeping the pressure in the line and you had to prime it to start...our filter has the pressure regulator built into it... a fuel pressure gauge on the dash sure sounds nice.....
Originally Posted by Jesticle
This is the same issue I'm having. I didn't prime the pump yesterday morning, and the problem re-occured. So it's not really a heat issue, it's a fuel (or lack of fuel) issue. But why would a fuel pump with 1000 miles on it, be faulty?
I think I'll order up a fuel pump and replace the fuel filter while I'm at it. Is it an in-tank or in-line fuel pump?
I think I'll order up a fuel pump and replace the fuel filter while I'm at it. Is it an in-tank or in-line fuel pump?
anybody have a line on good, cheap fuel pumps and fuel filters? I'm in Canada. I'll probably start with replacing just the fuel filter and see how it works after that, since the filter is cheaper...
What I wonder is what happened to brhertel? Would be nice to know what he found out. I know this is an old post but some follow up would be nice.
Originally Posted by patpur
What I wonder is what happened to brhertel? Would be nice to know what he found out. I know this is an old post but some follow up would be nice.
Looks like his fix was posted in another thread. THREAD
Turns out the fuel pump the dealer installed went bad AGAIN
AND
CAMshaft sensor was bad
Double trouble
Replaced under warranty
Originally Posted by tighed1
If it cranks then it's not the usual RCM problem.
Wondering if our fuel filters have a check valve that is supposed to hold pressure in the fuel lines and that check valve isn't working, allowing the fuel pressure to drop. That would explain why it take a crank or two to get started.
First couple of cranks to build up fuel pressure then start after pressure is up.
My thoughts without being there to check.
Wondering if our fuel filters have a check valve that is supposed to hold pressure in the fuel lines and that check valve isn't working, allowing the fuel pressure to drop. That would explain why it take a crank or two to get started.
First couple of cranks to build up fuel pressure then start after pressure is up.
My thoughts without being there to check.
as for quick diagnosing you guys could try this...
Fuel pressure Gauge Fittings
Marshall - Tovic Fuel Pressure Gauge
or you may be able to rent a fp tester from a local auto parts store
as for the car not firing after its been warmed up, that is usually the CPS
Originally Posted by MikeR
Ringmaster, DJ was probably correct... the filter wasnt keeping the pressure in the line and you had to prime it to start...our filter has the pressure regulator built into it... a fuel pressure gauge on the dash sure sounds nice.....





