Hi first post on here,

the other day i was driving along when the abs,bas,esp light came on and the spoiler came up with the red light flashing on the button. ive tried all the suggestions stated on here but nothing worked so i had a mobile mechanic come and plug it in to see what error code came up, the following code came up on his machine: - P20cc rough road detection signal by comparing wheel speeds speed signal from control module esp implau.

upto now he isnt sure what the problem is but he suspects it may be a abs sensor on one of the wheels, hopefully it will be a nice easy fix as i dont want to take it to dealership to be ripped off. i will post results when i find out what was wrong with it.

i have a 2004 coupe, manual, rhd

 

Does it have the original white battery?

 

im not 100% sure to be honest, i think i read on here some were if it is the factory one it has a white label on it? is that right? i am currently trying disconnecting the black (-) from the batt at the moment which i done this afternoon, i will reconnect this in a little while then try the wheel reset and go for a drive to see if that does anything...

 

Welcome aboard. Batteries can cause all sorts of issues, but...

I had a similar issue with my last XF and it is more than likely not an ABS sensor, but a wheel speed sensor that is going out. It is an easy fix and the part cost me about $75 (if you are a DIYer). The hard part is figuring out which wheel it is, and the ONLY person who has the equipment to read the correct module to tell you is the chrysler dealer (not even benz has the XF module for their STAR DAS system). Hopefully the guys at your dealership are cool, mine charged me $100 for the 5 minutes it took them to plug in the system....

Good luck

 

hi i checked my battery and it is not a stock battery so i assume it was replaced by a previous owner, even though i havnt had any electrical problems what so ever i left my batt on charge over night then in the morning done the wheel reset but the problem was still there. i have now booked my car into chrysler tomorrow to be diagnosed. when i find out what the problem is i will post back

 

just called them up to book it in and they said they have nothing untill tuesday, so i said i will drop it off tomorrow and if they get chance one day they can plug it in as it only takes 5mins to run the test. she then said ok drop it off tomorrow and we will try and have a look on friday??

 

Paul did you try the BAS/ESP reset??? Mine did the same thing a few years back. The reset is in your owners manual. It worked for me. My car was doing the exact same thing. I'm not dissing any other suggestion here, they are all very valid but try the reset first.
Pat

 

hi, no I havnt tried that, I will have a look through the hand book now and see if I can find it, does it take long to do? what does it involve? thanks

 

My N/A was doing the same stuff. While driving down I-70 the ABS, BAS ESP lights came on, and the spoiler was going crazy. I took it to the dealer immediately to have codes run. The wheel speed sensor was showing up as a the culprit(this explains the spoiler which is speed sensitive as well as abs and traction control which also get readings from the speed of tire rotation), but everything was pointing back to a low voltage reading. I still had the OEM battery in my 2005. They tested the battery but it came back fine, right around 13 volts. I went ahead and went down to O'Reiley's and bought a new battery. (Optima) I made the purchase because the temperatures were dipping into single digits, and I run an aftermarket speaker setup which also requires stable voltage.

Sure enough as soon as the new battery was installed, all the lights turned off and I have had not a single problems since.

 

Maybe someone else can chime in with the page number for you in the owners manual, I no longer have my Crossfire but I sure know it worked for me. If the problem re occurs then its most likely another issue.

 

hi again, I've just looked through the owners booklet and the reset you are talking about is the wheel reset which I have already tried, I mentioned it a few posts back but you must of missed it, thanks anyway

 

A real test of a battery is when it is put under load, putting a voltmeter over the terminals proves nothing. A voltmeter over the terminals while starting the car may show a different picture.
You can rig up 8 AAA batteries and get over 12 volts from them but hook up something that draws real power and you will see no action. Even a seemingly good battery can fail when put under load as it shorts out inside due to the load it is under.

 

Here is a battery load test you can do at home.


Battery Testing, Maintenance And Myths

 

I am pritty sure almost 100% it has nothing what so ever to do with the battery. I've had poor battery's in older cars in the past and the first things to go wrong are trying to start the car in the morning or when you stop at traffic lights at night the head lights dim slightly, these are clear signs or the battery being bad. the fact that even though I knew the battery was fine I still charged it up for over 12hours and the problem still remained. I'm dropping it off at the dealership tomorrow and they said they will look at I by Friday if they get a chance I've told them just to give me the code or tell me what has broken as I'm getting it fixed els were as it will be half the price, will update when I find out more

 

just has this issue while switching batteries. Took the hot wire off, and reset. Must be something with the voltage. I have never had this problem before...I am sure the shurykin I just re installed wasn't fully charged, so we shall see. Lights are off now that I took it for a drive and reset it...

 

the problem is your abs module you have 3 options to fix
1. replace at dealership around $1,900
2. order an new abs module on a mopar web site around $800
3. replace with a used abs module $ 250

I replaced with a used one and it works fine you can buy at a local junk yard or on ebay

 

the problem is your abs module you have 3 options to fix
1. replace at dealership around $1,900
2. order an new abs module on a mopar web site around $800
3. replace with a used abs module $ 250

I replaced with a used one and it works fine you can buy at a local junk yard or on ebay

 

For the second time in a year, my BAS/ESP and cruise control went out on a long trip. The next day everything was working fine. The tires are the same siae. A couple of days ago I went to the tire store to check my pressure. the pressure was fine. When I got these new Kumho's the salesman put nitrogen in the fronts to try out. They now put niotrogen in the backs. Maybe as the tires heated up the backs with air were causing my
bas/












I've had a similiar problem twice in the las year. On a long trip my BAS/















I've had a similar problem twice the last year. On a long trip, my BAS/ESP light went on and I lost my cruise control. Everything worked fine the next day. I had nitrogen in the front to try out and now have that in the backs. Maybe as the air expanded in my rears and the nitrogen didn't in the front, it caused the problem. The first time I just added air to get my pressure right. I'm hoping this takes care of it and I'll report back if it doesn't. It sort of makes sense in my limited brain.

Bob

 

Sorry for the mess above. The last paragraph is the right one. I finally hit the right buttons.

Bob

 

If you think nitrogen does not expand when heated ......... think again.
If you think nitrogen solves all those problems the salesman told you ...... think again.