Overheating, Repair Shop Says $875
Guys you know I've been having an overheating problem with my XF... took it to the mechanics today and they "believe" it to be the Relay Module (287.00) AND the Cooling Fan (400.00) plus labor. Is it possible to get these parts cheaper??? where??? Or do I just have to bite the bullet and get both replaced.
I am in Georgia and it has not even begun to get as hot as it will be this summer, there will be many over 100 degree days and that's in the shade! So today I was driving and could not even use my AC when I was sitting in traffic!!
Could be JUST the Module... they said they bypassed the module and could not get the fan to run.
HELP!!
I am in Georgia and it has not even begun to get as hot as it will be this summer, there will be many over 100 degree days and that's in the shade! So today I was driving and could not even use my AC when I was sitting in traffic!!
Could be JUST the Module... they said they bypassed the module and could not get the fan to run.
HELP!!
You might want to find out if it is one of the recall parts.Take a look at the pdf. file in post#2.https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-lil-help.html
Originally Posted by Deborah Walker
Guys you know I've been having an overheating problem with my XF... took it to the mechanics today and they "believe" it to be the Relay Module (287.00) AND the Cooling Fan (400.00) plus labor. Is it possible to get these parts cheaper??? where??? Or do I just have to bite the bullet and get both replaced.
I am in Georgia and it has not even begun to get as hot as it will be this summer, there will be many over 100 degree days and that's in the shade! So today I was driving and could not even use my AC when I was sitting in traffic!!
Could be JUST the Module... they said they bypassed the module and could not get the fan to run.
HELP!!
I am in Georgia and it has not even begun to get as hot as it will be this summer, there will be many over 100 degree days and that's in the shade! So today I was driving and could not even use my AC when I was sitting in traffic!!
Could be JUST the Module... they said they bypassed the module and could not get the fan to run.
HELP!!
Two parts failing at the same time seems to much of a coincidence to me. Maybe they are willing to spend your money to solve a problem they cannot figure out, by changing parts until it is solved. Go somewhere else.
Aftermarket Fan & Shroud
2004 2005 Chrysler Crossfire New Radiator Cooling Fan : eBay Motors (item 360238250203 end time Apr-25-10 12:35:24 PDT)
OEM fan
04 05 06 ELECTRIC COOLING FAN MODULE CHRYSLER CROSSFIRE : eBay Motors (item 350244823426 end time Apr-23-10 07:00:56 PDT)
2004 2005 Chrysler Crossfire New Radiator Cooling Fan : eBay Motors (item 360238250203 end time Apr-25-10 12:35:24 PDT)
OEM fan
04 05 06 ELECTRIC COOLING FAN MODULE CHRYSLER CROSSFIRE : eBay Motors (item 350244823426 end time Apr-23-10 07:00:56 PDT)
Seems very unlikely to me as well that both would go out at the same time, you know I had to put in a new fuse for the fan a couple of weeks ago. Fan was working after that, now they say it is not working, but I am going to go and check it.
Good info there guys.... mmmmwahhh
Good info there guys.... mmmmwahhh
OK the fan is NOT coming on, just got it up to temperature and turned the AC on high got out and observed, I can hear it trying to come on, but is not turning. And also no cold air with the fan not turning.
Sooooo guess best place to start is the fan.
Sooooo guess best place to start is the fan.
Last edited by Deborah Walker; Apr 14, 2010 at 09:23 PM.
Deb I had an overheating problem with my SRT. It was intermitten and was getting progressively worse. I swapped the modular from my daughters SRT and that solved my problem and created the overheating for her car.
The fan would not run and she overheated. The dealer replaced the modular and that solved the problem.
Go buy the modular ( MB dealer) and put it on yourself. It is a 1 on a ten scale.
The fan would not run and she overheated. The dealer replaced the modular and that solved the problem.
Go buy the modular ( MB dealer) and put it on yourself. It is a 1 on a ten scale.
If you have had children, this is easy.
Unplug the fan connector, there is a release tab that anchors the connector to the fan shroud.
Unplug the fan and its power lead, there is an interlock that must be depressed.
Get two jumper clip leads, best to have 14# gauge wires but cheap radio shack ones will do temporarly.
Clip one of the fan terminals to a lead and connect the other end to an engine bare metal connection to establish a ground connection.
Add another clip lead and connect it to the otherfan terminal.
Verify that both clip leads are on EITHER of the fan pins and that NEITHER is cross connecting or touching the other clip lead.
MOMENTARILY touch the free end of the clip lead to the + Positive terminal of the battery. Thats about 4' away so you have to have enough length to reach it and several clip leads in series is acceptable. There should be a good spark and the fan should start up immediatley.
DO NOT ALLOW THE MOTOR TO RUN BEYOND A SECOND OR SO AS IT CONSUMES TERRIFIC AMOUNTS OF CURRENT AND WILL OVER HEAT THE CONNECTIONS , THE FAN MOTOR, AND THE TEMPORARY CONNECTIONS ON THE FAN MOTOR.
If the fan does not work and your sure the grounded pin is conneted to the block of the engine, your fan is bad and can now be lifted out EASILY by popping off the two paperclip like metal hoops on the TOP of the fan shroud. THe shroud and fan lift off with a little wiggling to clear the radiator and spit tube on the passenger side of the radiator. Then you can replace the motor.
If the fan runs then the driver fender control module is in need of replacement. One accessable connector and some screws hold it in, a I DID NOT EVEN GET DIRTY JOB.
I would bet you lunch that both are not bad at the same time.
In Virginia.
If you have any parts replaced, have them RETURNED - none of this we threw them out.
Id really suggest buying them and doing this yourself for half the money unless offered a good warranty on the parts and labor.
Ready for the weekend, WOODY
Unplug the fan connector, there is a release tab that anchors the connector to the fan shroud.
Unplug the fan and its power lead, there is an interlock that must be depressed.
Get two jumper clip leads, best to have 14# gauge wires but cheap radio shack ones will do temporarly.
Clip one of the fan terminals to a lead and connect the other end to an engine bare metal connection to establish a ground connection.
Add another clip lead and connect it to the otherfan terminal.
Verify that both clip leads are on EITHER of the fan pins and that NEITHER is cross connecting or touching the other clip lead.
MOMENTARILY touch the free end of the clip lead to the + Positive terminal of the battery. Thats about 4' away so you have to have enough length to reach it and several clip leads in series is acceptable. There should be a good spark and the fan should start up immediatley.
DO NOT ALLOW THE MOTOR TO RUN BEYOND A SECOND OR SO AS IT CONSUMES TERRIFIC AMOUNTS OF CURRENT AND WILL OVER HEAT THE CONNECTIONS , THE FAN MOTOR, AND THE TEMPORARY CONNECTIONS ON THE FAN MOTOR.
If the fan does not work and your sure the grounded pin is conneted to the block of the engine, your fan is bad and can now be lifted out EASILY by popping off the two paperclip like metal hoops on the TOP of the fan shroud. THe shroud and fan lift off with a little wiggling to clear the radiator and spit tube on the passenger side of the radiator. Then you can replace the motor.
If the fan runs then the driver fender control module is in need of replacement. One accessable connector and some screws hold it in, a I DID NOT EVEN GET DIRTY JOB.
I would bet you lunch that both are not bad at the same time.
In Virginia.
If you have any parts replaced, have them RETURNED - none of this we threw them out.
Id really suggest buying them and doing this yourself for half the money unless offered a good warranty on the parts and labor.
Ready for the weekend, WOODY
FIRST -- Check and see if your car is covered under the recall for this problem!
Mine was not in the build range under recall but it still decided to call it quits anyways. Good thing I don't drive a Toyota! Anyways, I went up the block to my uncles Chrysler dealer and even with my discount Chrysler wanted $400 just for the new fan motor. I said screw this I don't want this POS OEM part that is known to fail and I went on eBay and bought a whole new shroud, fan and motor assembly for about $100 even and installed it myself. It's a 15 minute job. Havent had a problem since.
The only problem I had was the connector. They will slide together but not latch the whole way but it's tight enough to not worry about.
Mine was not in the build range under recall but it still decided to call it quits anyways. Good thing I don't drive a Toyota! Anyways, I went up the block to my uncles Chrysler dealer and even with my discount Chrysler wanted $400 just for the new fan motor. I said screw this I don't want this POS OEM part that is known to fail and I went on eBay and bought a whole new shroud, fan and motor assembly for about $100 even and installed it myself. It's a 15 minute job. Havent had a problem since.
The only problem I had was the connector. They will slide together but not latch the whole way but it's tight enough to not worry about.
Well guys I just have a minute to chime in here before I leave for the Dragon. I haven't taken the time to see the schematics for the fan and control. But if the fan motor is taking to many amps to run, I can see how it could take the control unit along with it. Unless of course the control unit just controls a relay. Something to keep in mind.
If you just replace the control unit, I would still like to know if the amp draw for the fan is within specs.
James
If you just replace the control unit, I would still like to know if the amp draw for the fan is within specs.
James
This sounds like a recall I did on my crossfire years ago (I think 2006). I got a letter in the mail from Chrysler and brought it to the dealership. The part was on back order probably because everbody was requesting it at the same time. They eventually got the part and did it for me. I never asked for the details so I don't remember. It had something to do with the fan relay or something. It would cause the car to overheat but it never happened on my car. This was all written in the letter but I don't remember the details. You may want to investigate this. If it is a recall it should be free.... it was an actual recall and not a TSB. This was the only recall I ever knew about and I bought this car brand new in 2005.
Last edited by blackcrossfire07; Apr 15, 2010 at 10:54 AM.
ok since we have thread, yesterday it was 85 degrees and I noticed my car's heat gauge was slightly over the middle while idling at a light and while driving about 45-55mph it would go slightly under the middle.
is this normal or will she overheat when we see some 100 degrees here ?
is this normal or will she overheat when we see some 100 degrees here ?
That"s where mine runs at , drive fast, are auto shift will get barely above center, other times barely below are on center never . I thought h"LL would freeze, over before it got to 100 up there
Danny
Originally Posted by Musclefan21
ok since we have thread, yesterday it was 85 degrees and I noticed my car's heat gauge was slightly over the middle while idling at a light and while driving about 45-55mph it would go slightly under the middle.
is this normal or will she overheat when we see some 100 degrees here ?
is this normal or will she overheat when we see some 100 degrees here ?
Geez, folks. I have an OBDII monitor and as I recall from a couple of years ago the difference between "just below" and "just above" the middle of the gauge is, like, 6 degrees.
It is NOT on my Holy Shoot list.
It is NOT on my Holy Shoot list.
Well guys, it IS the Fan..... have the Chrysler dealer here now looking into replacing it. Hoping it will fall under the recall and if it doesn't he can talk them into covering it.
Will keep you informed as to what happens.
Thanks for all your valuable information. It helps a girl out!!!

Deb
Will keep you informed as to what happens.
Thanks for all your valuable information. It helps a girl out!!!
Deb
their is a TSB on the fan... look here under tsb
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ollection.html
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ollection.html
Tighen1 I will buzz you personally next time... matter of fact think I have asked you many questions.
The car sits most of the week anyway, as I work from home, so really not a big deal that it is running a little hot, has not redlined yet or even close to it.
Want it replaced for nothing. Is their defect.
The car sits most of the week anyway, as I work from home, so really not a big deal that it is running a little hot, has not redlined yet or even close to it.
Want it replaced for nothing. Is their defect.
Originally Posted by RMADERMAN
Deb I had an overheating problem with my SRT. It was intermitten and was getting progressively worse. I swapped the modular from my daughters SRT and that solved my problem and created the overheating for her car.
The fan would not run and she overheated. The dealer replaced the modular and that solved the problem.
Go buy the modular ( MB dealer) and put it on yourself. It is a 1 on a ten scale.
The fan would not run and she overheated. The dealer replaced the modular and that solved the problem.
Go buy the modular ( MB dealer) and put it on yourself. It is a 1 on a ten scale.
I have considered doing just that. Where can I get one and not for $279.00... the dealer said they tested the Modular and it seemed fine.??




