Steering Vibration
I have a 2004 Roadster which had a very small vibration through the steering at 45-55mph so I took it in to get the wheels balanced. On the way home I noticed it was worse
so back I went they did it again and (after reading various threads on here) fitted a new steering damper - slightly worse again
Tonight I've jacked it up and turned the wheels around, looked for something loose but found nothing much apart from a bit of bearing play. Is there a correct way of adjusting the bearings rather than the nip up a bit method which I found here
I recently came from a VW/Audi/Skoda forum which would have had a torque setting for emptying the ash tray, so trial and error just doesn't feel right.
Tonight I've jacked it up and turned the wheels around, looked for something loose but found nothing much apart from a bit of bearing play. Is there a correct way of adjusting the bearings rather than the nip up a bit method which I found here
Originally Posted by muskrat
I have a 2004 Roadster which had a very small vibration through the steering at 45-55mph so I took it in to get the wheels balanced. On the way home I noticed it was worse
so back I went they did it again and (after reading various threads on here) fitted a new steering damper - slightly worse again
Tonight I've jacked it up and turned the wheels around, looked for something loose but found nothing much apart from a bit of bearing play. Is there a correct way of adjusting the bearings rather than the nip up a bit method which I found here
I recently came from a VW/Audi/Skoda forum which would have had a torque setting for emptying the ash tray, so trial and error just doesn't feel right.
Tonight I've jacked it up and turned the wheels around, looked for something loose but found nothing much apart from a bit of bearing play. Is there a correct way of adjusting the bearings rather than the nip up a bit method which I found hereHave you checked to make sure you don't have a stone lodged in the tyre tread?
Is the wheel rim square with the hub, i.e. no debris preventing the wheel to mate with the hub square?
Have you locked the front wheels recently under heavy braking and therefore flat spotted the tyre? Unlikely with ABS but still possible.
Failing all of the above, try another tyre fitting centre.
Originally Posted by Bazzer
Is the wheel rim square with the hub, i.e. no debris preventing the wheel to mate with the hub square?
Originally Posted by muskrat
I have a 2004 Roadster which had a very small vibration through the steering at 45-55mph so I took it in to get the wheels balanced. On the way home I noticed it was worse
so back I went they did it again and (after reading various threads on here) fitted a new steering damper - slightly worse again
Tonight I've jacked it up and turned the wheels around, looked for something loose but found nothing much apart from a bit of bearing play. Is there a correct way of adjusting the bearings rather than the nip up a bit method which I found here
I recently came from a VW/Audi/Skoda forum which would have had a torque setting for emptying the ash tray, so trial and error just doesn't feel right.
Tonight I've jacked it up and turned the wheels around, looked for something loose but found nothing much apart from a bit of bearing play. Is there a correct way of adjusting the bearings rather than the nip up a bit method which I found here1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
2. Install a wheel bolt (1) on the opposite side from the brake rotor retaining bolt (5).
3. Press the brake pads back in the brake caliper making sure they do not come in contact with the brake rotor.
4. Remove the dust cap (2).
5. Loosen the hub nut bolt. Turn the hub nut (4) back until a slight end play is achieved.
6. Attach a dial indicator.
CAUTION: Do not turn the wheel hub while taking the measurement.
7. Adjust the wheel bearing end play by turning the hub nut (4) in stages while pushing and pulling the rotor firmlyback and forth. Adjust end play to 0.01–0.02mm.
8. Tighten the hub nut bolt to 11 N·m (8 ft. lbs.) and recheck the wheel bearing end play.
9. Remove the dial indicator.
10. Install the wheel hub dust cap (2).
11. Remove the wheel bolt from the rotor.
12. Install the front wheel and tire assembly.
You can find the Entire Shop Manual in the SRT6 section under the title SRT6 Documentation.
Last edited by onehundred80; May 31, 2010 at 04:02 PM.
Originally Posted by Bazzer
Does the vibration come through the brake pedal when braking? Warped brake disc.
No just through the steering
Have you checked to make sure you don't have a stone lodged in the tyre tread?
Checked tonight while checking for loose bits
Is the wheel rim square with the hub, i.e. no debris preventing the wheel to mate with the hub square?
Couldn't detect any run out by eye
Have you locked the front wheels recently under heavy braking and therefore flat spotted the tyre? Unlikely with ABS but still possible.
No
Failing all of the above, try another tyre fitting centre.
No just through the steering
Have you checked to make sure you don't have a stone lodged in the tyre tread?
Checked tonight while checking for loose bits
Is the wheel rim square with the hub, i.e. no debris preventing the wheel to mate with the hub square?
Couldn't detect any run out by eye
Have you locked the front wheels recently under heavy braking and therefore flat spotted the tyre? Unlikely with ABS but still possible.
No
Failing all of the above, try another tyre fitting centre.
Originally Posted by OKC-XFR
I recently had the tires on my Durango rotated and had a worse vibration afterward...took it back and they used a wire brush on the rotors/drums around the lug bolts and the back of the center of the wheel to remove any corrosion - that fixed the problem right up.
Originally Posted by onehundred80
Remove the rotor and inspect the bearing, if thats OK reinstall as follows.
1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
2. Install a wheel bolt (1) on the opposite side from the brake rotor retaining bolt (5).
3. Press the brake pads back in the brake caliper making sure they do not come in contact with the brake rotor.
4. Remove the dust cap (2).
5. Loosen the hub nut bolt. Turn the hub nut (4) back until a slight end play is achieved.
6. Attach a dial indicator.
CAUTION: Do not turn the wheel hub while taking the measurement.
7. Adjust the wheel bearing end play by turning the hub nut (4) in stages while pushing and pulling the rotor firmlyback and forth. Adjust end play to 0.01–0.02mm.
8. Tighten the hub nut bolt to 11 N·m (8 ft. lbs.) and recheck the wheel bearing end play.
9. Remove the dial indicator.
10. Install the wheel hub dust cap (2).
11. Remove the wheel bolt from the rotor.
12. Install the front wheel and tire assembly.
You can find the Entire Shop Manual in the SRT6 section under the title SRT6 Documentation.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/111722-post1.html
1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
2. Install a wheel bolt (1) on the opposite side from the brake rotor retaining bolt (5).
3. Press the brake pads back in the brake caliper making sure they do not come in contact with the brake rotor.
4. Remove the dust cap (2).
5. Loosen the hub nut bolt. Turn the hub nut (4) back until a slight end play is achieved.
6. Attach a dial indicator.
CAUTION: Do not turn the wheel hub while taking the measurement.
7. Adjust the wheel bearing end play by turning the hub nut (4) in stages while pushing and pulling the rotor firmlyback and forth. Adjust end play to 0.01–0.02mm.
8. Tighten the hub nut bolt to 11 N·m (8 ft. lbs.) and recheck the wheel bearing end play.
9. Remove the dial indicator.
10. Install the wheel hub dust cap (2).
11. Remove the wheel bolt from the rotor.
12. Install the front wheel and tire assembly.
You can find the Entire Shop Manual in the SRT6 section under the title SRT6 Documentation.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/111722-post1.html
Originally Posted by muskrat
Thanks for that
I had searched before for manuals etc but came up with nothing so thats very helpful
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