Any ideas im the owner of and 2004 crossfire limited and the low coolant light is on abut the coolant isnt low but the light wont go off.

 

Your fan and/or controller may be having issues. Search-there have been quite a few with this problem this year.

 

WOW!!! wtf? everyone is having fan problems now? I started to believe our fans came with exparation dates and it is 08/2010.

 

Add me to the effin list

 

seriously?? WoW! this is actually pretty crazy.

a good 6-7 people had this issue just recently.

I guess add another common problem to the list for this car.

Still love the sucker though!

 

That light should be re-named the "Possible low coolant - possible bad fan motor - possible bad fan control module - possible other cooling system trouble" light.

Calling it just a low coolant light makes people go around in circles.

 

Don't order a replacement from Auto Parts Avenue (Ebay) they will never ship it to you in a good timely manner.

 

If you come in with direct contact or postings from MuscleFan21 or Myself your fan will die within a week. You better delete our posts of your thread lol. The infection is definitely spreading and it's all MuscleFan's fault!!!!

 

it all started here...

 

I ordered my fan off of ebay had it within a week!! Zero problems, good sale.

 

Yea, but WHAT SELLER????

 

found one at o'reiley auto parts for 170.00 had to be ordered only toook one day to come in.
Now anybody have any idea how to take this thing off?

 

Taking the fan out is the easiest thing to do on this car.

Open hood
Remove two clips at the top of the radiator. 1 each side.
Disconnect the connector on the driver side of the fan.
Pull fan up and out.
Slide new fan in. Make sure to get the bottom into the retaining groove.
Replace two clips.
Plug in connector.
DONE......

 

Yep, same problem.
I started to take matters in my own hands by trial and error. I bought and replaced all temp-sensors, replaced "all" fuses, replaced the fan, checked coolant level (stays full) and tested the control module. Power is reaching the fan, but will not start when overheating. I am pretty lost in thought on this matter. Any ideas would be helpful.

 

Now, wait. You replaced the fan MOTOR, right? If the motor is new and power it reaching it via the control module, then the new motor is bad.

Disconnect the fan motor harness from the rest of the harness - get some reasonably heavy wire, two pieces, and strip both ends. Jumper directly from the battery + and - posts to the two terminals of the fan motor and PROVE that motor is good. If it runs, I'd say your fan module is bad or a fuse is blown.

If ANYTHING else is wrong (say the ECM is not talking to the Fan Module) the Fan Module will go into "emergency mode" and turn the fan on full speed.

IF the fan motor refuses to run (and it runs at low speed whenEVER the A/C is on) - It has to be the fan motor, fan control module or fuse. There are no other options.

 

Wonderful, time for more trials. Thx for the info.

 

you might start with filling up your windshield washer resevoir. low fluid sets off the low coolant light

 

The fan in the car is really somewhat simple, but not as simple as the old days when the fan was belt driven. Back then, if the fan wouldn't turn, either the ENGINE wasn't turning, or the belt was GONE!

In the XF, the Fan motor is operated by the ECM (Engine Control Module - it's over in the box by the battery and runs a LOT more than just the fan) and the FCM (Fan Control Module- it's the little Grey ribbed box on the driver's side of the engine compartment, up almost behind the headlights).

There is a "handshake" taking place all of the time between these two modules. The ECM "pings" the FCM and the FCM answers back. Here we have the FIRST thing that will light the "low coolant light".

If the FCM, for ANY reason, does not respond to the ECM's "pings", the ECM will wait a few seconds - very few, and will light the Low Coolant light to tell you that SOMETHING is wrong with the cooling system. Maybe the FCM is bad, maybe the wiring between FCM and ECM is bad - or maybe the fuse to the FCM is blown. If the fuse is NOT, in fact, blown then the FCMis powered up and knows it has lost contact with the ECM, it "knows" that it no longer knows the engine temperature - so it turns the fan on full speed to provide airflow in case it is needed.

Now....

Until the engine warms up, the fan does not turn EXCEPT that IF you turn the A/C on, the ECM tells the FCM to run the fan as slow speed. Here we have the NEXT reason the low coolant light will come on.

The FCM measures the current drawn by the fan motor, if it is not within the specs of what the FCM wants to see, the FCM tells the ECM to turn the light on. But the light will only be lit if the motor is supposed to be running either cause the engine is hot OR the A/C is on! If your engine is cool and the A/C is on, and the LIGHT is on - turning the A/C off in this case will cause the FCM to shut the fan off. Within a few seconds, the light will go out IF the problem is the fan motor's current draw is not within specs cause it is disconnected or the motor is defective.

So, let's say you turn the A/C on, and you get the light. You notice the fan isn't turning. You then check the fuse and it's not blown. What do you do? Well, like I said, replacing the fan motor is probably all you need do. BUT, if you want to PROVE the motor is bad, keep reading.

Remember, you have the A/C on. The FCM should have the fan running at slow speed. To do this, the FCM applies 12 volts to the Green/Black wire going to the fan motor. (The brown wire is the "return" or ground wire from the motor). Now, since the FCM wants the fan to run SLOWLY, it applies PULSES of 12 volts. Your digital meter will read about 4 volts when it sees these pulses. An analog meter will, depending on it's design, show something around 3 to 6 volts and the meter needle will probably be bobbing around a bit - this is normal.

If you measure the voltage on the BROWN wire, you should NEVER see ANY voltage on it. If you do, THERE is your problem. Follow the brown wire back to the FCM and on to the ground lug - it's open somewhere!

Before you proceed - TURN THE ENGINE OFF IF IT'S RUNNING!

So, how do you measure these voltages? If you are careful, it's easy. Take some stranded wire and strip it back 2-3 inches. Now, cut out TWO strands, yes, individual strands of wire. Unplug the fan motor harness from the FCM harness (use a little screwdriver or key to lift the locking tab as you pull the connectors apart). Now, insert one strand of wire into each side of the FCM's plug. Push the connectors together - making sure the two strands dont' touch each other. If you look closely, you'll see that I have done this in the pic below.

You now have easy to reach leads to measure with. I tied the ground of my meter right back to the negative battery terminal. I then measured the Green/Black wire's voltage when researching this write-up.

SUMMARY:
Turn the A/C on, this assures that the fan motor is commanded to run at slow speed. (If the engine is real hot, the fan will be commaned to run at high speed anyway, but turn the A/C on to make sure you aren't wasting your time looking for voltage when it's not really there anyway).

If you see voltage on the Green/Black wire and NO voltage on the Brown wire - your fan motor BETTER be turning. If not, the motor is bad.

If you see no voltage on the Green/Black wire, verify:
1) That your meter is good (measure right across the battery!)
2) Verify your meter ground is tied to a good ground - the battery negative terminal is a good place to go.
3) Verify that you have the A/C on.
4) Verify the fuse to the FCM is good. (Lotsa luck with that, can't determine from MY manual which fuse it is.)
Without voltage on the Green/Black wire and NO voltage on the Brown wire - the motor won't be turning. WITH voltage on the Green/Black wire and no voltage on the brown wire - the motor HAS to be turning if it is not defective. PERIOD.



If the low coolant light is on due to a fan problem, either we have a breakdown in communications between the ECM and FCM (we have bad wiring, a bad FCM, a bad ECM, a bad fan motor fuse or bad power to the FCM.) (Power to the FCM comes from the ignition switch when the car is started. I am unsure if there is a fuse in this lead, still looking for that in the manual)

OR

the FCM does not like the amount of current it sees the fan drawing. (The current is too high or it's too low due to a bad motor or the motor not
being plugged in.)

 

My Low Coolant Light has been coming on as well AND my A/C has been intermittent.

I ran some tests as described above and it appears that my fan is dead. I'm hoping that the funky A/C operation is due to the fan not functioning too. i.e., if the fan runs when the A/C is no, maybe the A/C doesn't run when the fan is not running.

Getting new fan. Will report back.

 

You my friend have got the infection. That is what you get when you peek into these posts haha. That suck's man but your one of us now we are the Infected.