Well, either the connectors are not an exact match OR one of them has the tab broken off, right?


Anyway, try using a "tie-wrap" or "wrap tie" and pass it between the wires on one connector, then between them on the other connnector... then back thru the wrap itself and draw it tight. We do that at work when faced with plugs that have lost their "locking-tab-thingy".

 

Good idea Mark, I could not get mine in far enough to make it click either... I will do the tie band thing, but mine has been holding so far without anything the connection is tight.

 

Yep you guest it coolant light on another 04 wtf did they do put time bombs in them?

 

test the fan ASAP. pop the hood, start the car, turn the A/C on and see if the fan spins. if it doesnt, jump start it directly from the battery and see if it runs. if it does, then probably a bad module, if it doesnt, then probably a bad fan.

wow, this is crazy... Dont blame it on me folks, Deborah started all this

 

I think she WAS the first one to have it fail - in recent memory, that is.

But she bought THIS car from one of them YANKEES in Michigan.
Just saying...

 

Bringing this up to the top as I just finally realized the fuse (and possibly the fan) has been the cause of my low coolant light being on! This happened to my SRT6 right at the same time as everyone else - right around labor day weekend last year...strange!

When it happened last year, I checked the coolant and it wasn't low and the car wasn't overheating so I figured I would replace the coolant level sensor when I pulled the car out of storage this spring. I was busy so I drove the car around after I pulled it out of storage without replacing the sensor, but with the recent heat wave the car started running real hot. So I checked, and sure enough the fan is dead. The fuse is popped and I have 2 of them being shipped to me, but I guess I should do some tests on the fan to see if that's dead before I waste my time and possibly pop the new fuse.

I am now a believer in the fan time bomb conspiracy theory. At least I didn't waste my time trying to replace the coolant level sensor

Jon

 

Well, I tested the fan last night and it works, but it draws huge current and I see sparks in the fan motor while it's running. I'm going to pull the fan tomorrow and see if the bearing is bad (fan seems to spin freely, but I did hear a bearing like squeal noise when the fan first started spinning). I figure if I can get a replacement bearing for a couple bucks, I'll try that before I order a new fan.

Another weekend without the crossfire....boooo!

Jon

 

I dont think you can replace just the bearing.. but can replace a fan..... I would replace them both so I wouldnt have to worry about the other one going out in a month or three....


As a side note, I had my fan assembly out and when I put it back in I forgot to plug it back in. I drove around for days like that and had no heating issues. My temp needle was only slightly above the normal position. I was very surprised at how cool it stayed without the fan running. I do not recommend this practice!

 

I've driven the car for almost a thousand miles like that....LOL! And yes, the temp stayed pretty much right at the halfway mark on the temp gauge - until we had 100 degree heat the other day. Even then it was OK as long as I kept it over about 40 mph. Sitting at a light or in traffic the needle would slowly creep up.

Yes, definitely not recommended if over 80 degrees or so outside!

I ordered the whole fan today. Should be here Tuesday.

Jon

 

Yup. My fan/coolant level sensor/ cooling system went out 2 weeks ago. Got the coolant level sensor replaced, but then they told me that my fan was dead. New fan w/ motor $119.84 on Ebay, sensor +/-$20 on ebay as opposed to $400 (fan) and $44 (sensor).

BTW.. any pics of the 50 amp fuse? I don't have the car with me right now and I'd rather save money by buying it myself, than through th dealer.

EDIT:
Got the fuses ordered. Part No. 05135816AA. $5.00 ea.

 

Did y'all order the 50 amp fuses through the dealer? Mercedes or Chrysler? I've looked every where online and I can't find any. I need a radiator fan fuse and a traction fuse. My husband saw that the fan fuse was burnt, so he took the traction fuse off and put it at the fan fuse position. The low coolant light went out, but then the fuse burnt again. Now we need both fuses. What would burn the fuses out? Does it sound like we need a new radiator fan? I've had such bad experiences with dealerships that I don't want to take it to them. Any advice?

 

Sounds like you've got the same problem a lot of us had and it's time to replace your fan. Something causes a very high resistance (bad bearing or just poor windings in the fan motor) that causes the fuse to pop. Once it gets bad enough to pop the fuse the first time, you have to replace the fan or you'll just end up constantly popping the fuses.

The Chrysler dealer part number for the fuses is posted in the post right above yours (part number 05135816AA).

Here's a link to some on ebay for $8.50 shipped if you want go that way: EZGO 50 AMP FUSE FOR POWERWISE CHARGER IMPROVED | eBay

You can find a fan on ebay as well for $120 instead of the $400 the dealer wants for it.

Good luck,

Jon

 

I'm so frustrated with my Crossfire
All of this started after my battery died and my alternator failed. Both of those were replaced.

Thought the fan failed as it will overheat if stuck in traffic, and as suggested here, if it doesn't run while idling with the AC on, it's probably failed. I swapped out the cooling fan with a new one last weekend (at least they engineered it to be easily swapped), but when I tested it by turning on the AC and letting it idle, the fan never came on.

The coolant reservoir warning light on the dashboard is on, so I was thinking I should replace the coolant tank/sensor next as that's what it's complaining about. Would a failed coolant tank sensor keep the fan from running?

My next step if the coolant tank sensor doesn't resolve the issue is the fan control box.

 

Did you check to see if your fuse was popped?

 

I checked the 50 amp fuses with my multi-meter, all good there.

 

Well, a bad coolant level sensor wouldn't cause the fan to not come on so I doubt that's it, and that's why I mentioned the 50 amp fan fuse. Did you try running power directly to the fan to make sure you didn't get a bad one?

 

I'll try that. Would a faulty cooling fan make the coolant level CEL come on?

Thanks,
Brian

 

Yup - read my post about 10 posts up. That's why I originally posted in this thread - I thought I had a bad coolant level sensor because the light was on and the coolant level was fine. It turns out that the fan fuse being blown trips this light in addition to the sensor triggering it.

 

Well this just keeps getting deeper and deeper. Now the alarm randomly goes off. Looks like the siren is broken too (which is actually good as I'm not pissing my neighbors off), but the alarm is randomly going off. Apparently it was going off last night, and wore down the battery so I had to charge it this morning. Something seems to be wrong with this electrical system.

 

The Crossfire Service Manual tells you how to check the fan control module with a Multimeter, I find it strange that more people do not try to follow the steps as outlined in the manual.
Most of these electronic parts have a diagnosis plan outlined and they can mostly tell you if the part is OK or not. Some need the dealer DRB gizmo but generally a multimeter is fine.