Hi,

Dont know if anyone has had this issue with there Crossfire, but my 2004 reg rear spoiler goes up about two mins after the car has started, then the spoiler light on the control dash keeps flashing and i cant manually bring the spolier down, unless i turn the car off the on, then the electric switch is fine and i can bring the spolier down as per normal???

weird?

any help would be great.

regards

 

sounds like a sensor issue, as it's needs to deploy after a certain speed. The sensor is probably bad. ?

 

cool thanks for this.

would it be anythign else???

 

check your battery, if it is original it should be changed

 

I was having similar issues. Change your battery.

 

Agree with check your battery, here's another thing to check. Mine did that a few years ago. The BAS/ESP lights came on as well. I spun my wheels coming out of our lot going to lunch. I reset that system (in your owners manual, simple turn your wheels lock to lock) and that reset the system and fixed the spoiler issue.

 

Check your battery, but mine was doing exactly the same thing and it was simply a ~$50 speed sensor.

Only bad part is the only people who can scan and tell you which one is the dealer, and around here, they charge $100 for the privilege

 

John - A normal scanner can't pull that code? just wondering.

 

Lew, if you live near Cincinnati send me a p m , I'll pull the code for you

 

I had this exact problem. Spoiler would go up after I started driving and the red light would flash. I couldn't retract the spoiler unless I cycled the ignition. My spoiler would continue to try to go down when I put it down though. It couldn't sense that it was already completely down. If yours does the same, I would say it's the same problem I had, which the fix would be to replace the motor. That fixed mine.

 

Nope, I tried multiple OBD tools and even a Dash Daq and got nothing. The problem is that the codes for the BAS/ESP and ABS are not accessible to these scanners, they can only read CELs. The dealer is the only one who can get into these items, unforunately.

 

I noticed when they checked my car for the EGR valve the guy used a computer that was in a suitcase. We were joking that it was a lot more sophisticated than our Matco code reader.

 

i live in the uk!!

mine does exactly the same as this. you say replace the motor, what motors this??

i hate dealerships, so would like to avoid this at all costs!!!

 

I wouldn't know how to replace it myself since I got it replaced under warranty. The spoiler motor that extends and retracts the spoiler is under a cover in the rear hatch door. On the bottom of the door (the part above you when it's open), there's a cover that sits over the spoiler. In the handle that is on that cover (on the inside, not the handle you used to open the hatch), there is a small "circle" that you can pop off with a screw driver. If you pop that off, under it is a screw or bolt of some sort. Remove that and you can simply (and carefully, although it does take some force to remove it) pull the cover off and under there is the spoiler motor and some of the linkage.

If someone has pictures of this, that would be great. It's 20-something degrees out here, snowing, and dark, so I'm not going to try right now.

The motor was special order when I had it done at the dealer, so I have no clue how much it costs, much less how much it costs on the other side of the pond. I do believe it was a sensor in the motor that malfunctioned though.

 

i have had the battery tested and its working fine, so it cant be that. the spoiler is still going up. i dont really want to take the car to a dealership as they are seriously overpriced and a rip off. i know a few mechanics but ideally would want to try to buy the part myself.

it seems that people are either saying its the sensor in the spoiler or the battery. with the latter already been tested, i guess the sensor it is.

does anyone know of how i can go about purchasing a sensor for this spoiler. ps, please bear in mind im in the uk!

cheers guys

 

The sensor is most likely integrated into the spoiler motor. I really doubt that they sell them separately. If you can find the part number, or if someone else knows it, you could call around and see if you could get it for cheap (relatively, of course), and have your mechanic do it. I don't know what the dealer had to do when they replaced mine, so I don't know if your mechanic has all the tools or not.

 

PLEASE READ THIS.

First off, even when a battery is testing ok, if it is more than 3-4 years old, replace it, these cars are VERY sensitive to voltage irregularities.

Second, the sensor I replaced is a WHEEL SPEED SENSOR and is in the hub assembly. It tells the car how fast each wheel is traveling and compares the data across all 4 wheels, if one sensor is dead, it can not confirm your speed and as a safety measure, it will deploy the spoiler and blink the light on the dash.

 

Wow, how did you find that? Did you have to test each wheel speed sensor?

 

Unfortunately, the only way to tell is to hook it up to a dealership OBD and scan the modules, my dealer charged me $100. I tried no less than 3 scanners that different friends had, but that particular module requires an extremely expensive system, usually only dealers have.

It really sucked to know that was my problem and have the part in hand (~$60) and still have to pay the damn stealership their blood money

 

Lew:

Listen to him! This board is FULL of stories of people suddenly being stranded due to NOTHING more than a battery. I had one that would turn the engine over, but as soon as the engine started, it would die. The car was towed to a garage ($80 for the tow) and they worked on the car an hour ($90) - and it turned out to be nothing more than a battery THAT TESTED FINE. (THis was in a Dodge Durango, but the point still applies.)

When the battery reaches 3 to 4 years of age, REPLACE IT! It's the INEXPENSIVE way out of a LOT of potential problems. I replaced mine over a year ago just because it was the original battery from 2005.