Spring pad thickness, per part number:

Front:
A 210 321 01 84 (5mm)
A 210 321 02 84 (9mm)
A 210 321 03 84 (13mm)
A 210 321 04 84 (17mm)
A 210 321 05 84 (21mm)

Rear:
A 210 325 01 84 (5mm)
A 210 325 02 84 (9mm)
A 210 325 03 84 (13mm)
A 210 325 04 84 (17mm)

And the camber colt is not a Home Depot bolt, lol...

Mercedes part number A 202 330 01 18, per each bolt.

 

So I'm guess the 5mm get the most drop? Is it a noticeable drop? And pics or discritption?

 

If by "most drop" you mean the thinnest, then yes. The pads are merely meant for fine-tuning. I've seen two identical SRTs have different pads from the factory, if that tells you anything. Keep in mind that by going with the thinnest pad, your drop will only be as much as the difference in that pad and your OEM. Springs perform the drop, pads simply perform the insulating and tweaking of the spring.

OEM, I had the 5MM in the rear and the 13mm up front, or for the dot-counters, 1's and 3's.

After the installation of cut springs, I still needed to drop the front just a hair to make the rake look proper. I went with a 2-dot pad in the front and it fixed the rake.

As for a description... not sure what you want. It's a black rubber doughnut with a recess for the spring to cradle into. The doughnut varies in thickness. Roughly 4" in diameter.

I'm sure someone somewhere has taken a pic of the spring pad, but I personally have not.

Google might be your friend, if all you're seeking is a visualization.

 

I need to take pics of the new hieght, after it has settle, but I wash and wax, it rains and is dirty again. Maybe this week.

 

I ment a pic of the pad drop. If I went 5mm front an rear how much lower would the car be then stock? An you sed u cut ur springs? How much did you cut off and you got a pic of that? I'm just lloking to tuck the wheels a lil better then stock. Can I do that with just the pads? Or do I need to cut and pads or just pads?

 

I'm looking for about a inch n a half drop in the rear and an inch in the front. I think that should snug the wheels up nice. Can I do that with pads or am I going to need to cut the springs? If so how much off each one about u think?

 

I have seen them on E-Bay. The Chyrsler Dodge dealership that did the work for me had the kit in stock. I'm sure a MB dealership would also have them.

 

As mentioned earlier, I'm not sure how much drop you'd get because I don't think there's a set constant as to what the cars come with from the factory. Mine were 3/1, I think Nick had a 4/2 and Jason had a 3/2 (As in, dots per pad).

I bought the springs already professionally cut, but if you want before/after shots just look in my gallery. The "wing installed" album is at stock height. The shot with the Mandrus wheels is lowered.

 

Changing the pad will not give you 1 1/2 inch drop.

1 inch = 25.4 mm

If you have the biggest pad front and back going to the thinest would only get you 16mm front and 12mm back. Basically half inch at most but as stated The fronts are most likely a 3 and the backs are already the thinest. Chopping springs or going with one of the aftermarket options will get you the inch plus drop. There are a couple threads with pictures of the pads. They have little raised bumps to tell what the thickness is, I believe you can get your hand up there and feel what the sizes are without taking anything apart.

 

Ok well in that case I'm goinng to forget about the pads lol. I'm going to hav to cut. So how much do I take out of the stock limited rear coils to get about a iinch n a half drop. And how much to take out the fronts to get about an inch. And wat would be the negitive? I know I have to do camber bolts and rear adjustable. But would what would b the worset if I don't do them right away

 

depending on what pads you have in your car you may need pads to raise the car after the springs are cut. typically they go hand in hand. also any suspension mods will req. bolts and bars. no way you get a decent alignment without them.

 

Well I cnt tell what pads I have by trying to feel up there. No room. Well what's going to happen if I cut just a lil bit but no bolts and bars, the aligment will be messed up I kno but what dose tht mean. And how hard is it to put springs in an out. Spring conpressor needed? Cause I think ill risk it an do a half coil all round. Hope that will give me a nice look. Just wonderinf if the fronts and rear coils have to be cut diff tto give it the same look but lower or could I do a half coil all round

 

spring compressor highly recommended. 1/2 coil all around should be fine. cut short then recut if needed. cut long and no going back

 

Well I don't have a spring compressor.............still possible?

 

Spring compressor on ebay under $300 and it makes like alot easier when doing springs

If you can do the passenger front without a spring compressor then you should be fine with out one

 

Dam trying to do it with out buying that ****. Ima only use it this once lol. It has to be possible without.....right? Lol

 

there 2 bolts that are on the inside of the lower control arm that must removed to lower the arm to relieve the pressure on the spring. this isn't so hard to do. now getting the 2 bolts back in is another story completely. considering jhm2k and myself are fairly handy with tools it took the better part of a complete day to remove and reinstall the front springs on his xfire.
with the compressor tool i can do it alone in 20 to 30 minutes each side. the tool is 189$ on bay.

 

I'm thinking that it would be easier to put it back in cause your cutting part of the spring off. And I'm thinking that I can use a floor jack underneath the control arm and compress the spring like that? Possible or na

 

XF725, keep in mind, these guys are all talking about AMG/SRT springs which have a much higher rate, your NA springs may yield different results...

 

Oh **** then I need some info on n/a springs...