Need help. Car wont start
Searched the forum and have gotten no answers to help
Like the title says. Car wont start. Starter wont even click. Drove the car everything was fine, parked in my driveway, woke up the next morning and nothing.
Remote opens and locks car and sets the alarm.
Turn key in ignition all lights come on, on dash
replaced the cam and crank position sensor ( with bosch parts)
New Battery.
relay board is like new. All soldered connections look great.
Turn key to start NOTHING. no click from starter.
I need help or this car is going to be a big paper weight in a couple of days..
Chrysler dealers here have no clue about the car, wouldn't trust them tgo change my oil. And the mercedes dealers i have talked to wont look at the car
Like the title says. Car wont start. Starter wont even click. Drove the car everything was fine, parked in my driveway, woke up the next morning and nothing.
Remote opens and locks car and sets the alarm.
Turn key in ignition all lights come on, on dash
replaced the cam and crank position sensor ( with bosch parts)
New Battery.
relay board is like new. All soldered connections look great.
Turn key to start NOTHING. no click from starter.
I need help or this car is going to be a big paper weight in a couple of days..
Chrysler dealers here have no clue about the car, wouldn't trust them tgo change my oil. And the mercedes dealers i have talked to wont look at the car
Originally Posted by BobbyCaz
Also picked up a ODB II scanner. An actron Model #CP9125. Connect it to the car. And it gives me back a message of........ NO LINK
Use the following chart and check voltage at #16. And then ground on #4

If no battery voltage on #16, check the large fuses in front of the battery under the small square cover.

If no battery voltage on #16, check the large fuses in front of the battery under the small square cover.
Originally Posted by James1549
Use the following chart and check voltage at #16. And then ground on #4

If no battery voltage on #16, check the large fuses in front of the battery under the small square cover.

If no battery voltage on #16, check the large fuses in front of the battery under the small square cover.
Going to do this now.
Using a volt meter, check and be sure that all terminals have battery voltage here:

especially fuse #4. This panel is located in front of the battery on the fender well, under a cover.

especially fuse #4. This panel is located in front of the battery on the fender well, under a cover.
Last edited by James1549; Mar 14, 2012 at 09:42 PM.
Originally Posted by James1549
Using a volt meter, check and be sure that all terminals have battery voltage here:

especially fuse #4. This panel is located in front of the battery on the fender well, under a cover.

especially fuse #4. This panel is located in front of the battery on the fender well, under a cover.
These fuses all have power
Originally Posted by James1549
Use the following chart and check voltage at #16. And then ground on #4

If no battery voltage on #16, check the large fuses in front of the battery under the small square cover.

If no battery voltage on #16, check the large fuses in front of the battery under the small square cover.
Just cut up the leads for my meter, got it in there and all is good
It appears you need a bit more diagnoses than I can help with, without being there. My next step would be to see if voltage is getting to the starter solenoid while someone turning the key for you. That way you can eliminate the starter being bad.
The 'no link' and no start have to have a common defect. Its just a matter of finding it.
Good luck with the repair, I will look around some more.
James
The 'no link' and no start have to have a common defect. Its just a matter of finding it.
Good luck with the repair, I will look around some more.
James
A last word...
I'm thinking you may have some type communication problems between modules. Could be external, internal. Check all your connections and plugs at the various modules. Here is a diagram that could help out.
I'm thinking you may have some type communication problems between modules. Could be external, internal. Check all your connections and plugs at the various modules. Here is a diagram that could help out.
What year and how many miles for the car.
I'd do as was said and check the cable to the starter, maybe corroded inside the insulation, is there any corrosion around the battery area, good connections ?
I'd do as was said and check the cable to the starter, maybe corroded inside the insulation, is there any corrosion around the battery area, good connections ?
Originally Posted by BobbyCaz
Battery voltage is 12.2
Originally Posted by onehundred80
What year and how many miles for the car.
I'd do as was said and check the cable to the starter, maybe corroded inside the insulation, is there any corrosion around the battery area, good connections ?
I'd do as was said and check the cable to the starter, maybe corroded inside the insulation, is there any corrosion around the battery area, good connections ?
2005 limited, Automatic, roughly 75,000. There was corrosion with the old battery cleaned terminals and all was good. new battery is only a few months old. I've removed and replaced the connections so many times, they are clean as i whistle.
Gonna have to check the starter cable and starter itself on Saturday. Don't have time to screw with it anymore tonight. haven't eaten dinner yet, and it's getting late
Last edited by BobbyCaz; Mar 14, 2012 at 10:38 PM.
i think i would ohms test the sci wire pin 32 20 gauge wire dg/yl of the powertrain control module c4 connector with pin 3 dg/yl at the diagnostic connector
make sure you have good continuity
make sure good ground also at diag connector and power at pin 16 at diag connector
make sure you have good continuity
make sure good ground also at diag connector and power at pin 16 at diag connector


