Engine Quit & Left Me On The Side Of The Highway
you've given me hope that it's not going to be a $1000+ repair. I hope and pray you guys are right!!!!
I will call the dealer first thing tomorrow morning and touch base with them and tell them of the issues you've all outlined above. Hopefully they'll be able to fix it without any problems and my Crossfire will be back home very soon.
I'll post back here with any info I have so that in the future, others can hopefully benefit from this post.
Thanks again very, very much!
Dave
I will call the dealer first thing tomorrow morning and touch base with them and tell them of the issues you've all outlined above. Hopefully they'll be able to fix it without any problems and my Crossfire will be back home very soon.
I'll post back here with any info I have so that in the future, others can hopefully benefit from this post.
Thanks again very, very much!
Dave
Thanks
MrMiata :
I called the dealer as soon as they opened, the service adviser said the car fired right up when they turned the key. I told him I suspected the CPS, he said that was a good possibility.
I called the parts department at another Chrysler dealership, they said the nearest CPS was 250 miles away and it was $267 for the part.
So, diagnostics, a $267 part, labor.....$500? $600?
What can you do when the car's 120 miles away? They got ya by the short & curlys....
Dave
+1 .. Don't know your Auto Supply chains there, but Advanced Auto has a lifetime warranty on theirs for around 65 bucks. Score the proper tools if you don't already have them and take care of business yourself. They planning on delivering the car or are you going to have to catch a ride there anyways?
+1 .. Don't know your Auto Supply chains there, but Advanced Auto has a lifetime warranty on theirs for around 65 bucks. Score the proper tools if you don't already have them and take care of business yourself. They planning on delivering the car or are you going to have to catch a ride there anyways?
( where is this occurring ? - your location, dealer location )
Last edited by ala_xfire; Jul 30, 2012 at 09:45 AM.
1/4" drive variety.. with at least a 6" extension.. Duct tape in the socket works well to hold that puppy from dropping when removing and installing. Loosen first then small piece over the socket and press back on for final removal.
Never thought of that ......
I would say just do it yourself, then, when you are done, take it to autozone and get the codes checked. Should be all clear. 267$ for the part? You could have it OVERNIGHTED at 55$ for 1/3 that price...
I find it kinda funny that the part from autozone is 67$ and the price they quoted you is a nice even, flat, 200$ more than the autozone price...
Never take your car to a Chrysler Dealership UNLESS your car is under warranty...
I find it kinda funny that the part from autozone is 67$ and the price they quoted you is a nice even, flat, 200$ more than the autozone price...
Never take your car to a Chrysler Dealership UNLESS your car is under warranty...
Last edited by jiggityjosh; Jul 30, 2012 at 10:23 AM.
"If" I was smart I wouldn't have been crawling around under the car looking for the screw to begin with.. LOL.
Unfortunately, the car and I are both in Canada - no Advance Autos or Auto Zones here. 
Canadian parts stores quote $126 for the CPS (Made by "BWD") which is apparently a subsidiary of Bluestreak.
Canadian parts stores quote $126 for the CPS (Made by "BWD") which is apparently a subsidiary of Bluestreak.
You could always just reset the ECU after you fix and if the check engine light doesn't come on after 200 miles, you are golden.
And here's the other thing :
What if I buy the part, grab all the tools I can fit in the truck, go up there and change the CPS and it ends up that the CPS isn't the problem? I'm right back at square one again. I'll be out of town and have no real access to you guys and your knowledge and advice, etc.
If the car was in my home town (or I didn't have to go to work everyday), I think I'd do what you suggest. Buy the part, drive up there, change it and go from there. As it is though, I'm a bit between the rock and the hard place.
What if I buy the part, grab all the tools I can fit in the truck, go up there and change the CPS and it ends up that the CPS isn't the problem? I'm right back at square one again. I'll be out of town and have no real access to you guys and your knowledge and advice, etc.
If the car was in my home town (or I didn't have to go to work everyday), I think I'd do what you suggest. Buy the part, drive up there, change it and go from there. As it is though, I'm a bit between the rock and the hard place.
I can understand your situation, basically it boils down to 100% chance dealer is going to reach deep into your pockets.. and at least 95% chance this is going to fix it. It is displaying the "classic" symptoms for this repair.
Why not just call the dealership and ask them to give you the code from the OBD reader.
The code for this should read P0335 which means "Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit Error".
If they won't tell you, they are a ******* ripoff and plan on raping you in the rectum with the largest device possible...
They don't use lube either because that would cost them more money...
The code for this should read P0335 which means "Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit Error".
If they won't tell you, they are a ******* ripoff and plan on raping you in the rectum with the largest device possible...
They don't use lube either because that would cost them more money...
If you have the cash and You really wanna pay $600-$700
Then leave it at the dealer.. they are gonna be doing diagnostics for 1hr and won't even
Check your cps , they will tell you they couldn't find the problem and they need more time ..there is another diagnostics charge
They will finally check your cps and (if they are crooked as vw) they will tell you "yea the code you got was for the cps
But we need to replace more parts just to be on the safe side"
They will nickel and dime you so be prepared
Or you can just do it yourself like everyone has suggested..
The most important thing here though is that you get your car back..if it were me I'd limp it back if I had to ..I hate dealer ships though
Then leave it at the dealer.. they are gonna be doing diagnostics for 1hr and won't even
Check your cps , they will tell you they couldn't find the problem and they need more time ..there is another diagnostics charge
They will finally check your cps and (if they are crooked as vw) they will tell you "yea the code you got was for the cps
But we need to replace more parts just to be on the safe side"
They will nickel and dime you so be prepared
Or you can just do it yourself like everyone has suggested..
The most important thing here though is that you get your car back..if it were me I'd limp it back if I had to ..I hate dealer ships though


