Hi all.

Was waiting at a red light and all was fine and normal, when i took off there was a destinct lack of power with no acceleration, lost all steering. Electricals all seem fine with everything still functioning it just wont kick over when turning ignition.

Any suggestions?

 

Its ok, cause found and fixed, engine light has been triggered at some stage though. Maybe because it went on the back of a tilt tray while still in park? Could this be enough to confuse it into coming on?

 

FALSE ALARM PLEASE HELP DIAGNOSE, Thought i fixed it as it started, drove to the shops and back fine, now wont start again

 

the engine is the same as the merc clk i had. I had this issue and it was the crankshaft sensor which broke. It gets very hot and fails eventually. could try that. Only a replacement, cant be fixed. Not too expensive and easy job at the garage. Hope that helps!

 

Its strange though, sometimes its starting, other times it just wont kick over, is this what your clk was doing or would it just not kick over period?

 

Ok i let it idle and your right, it gets to a certain temp and just shuts down. My next question and this is an extremely n00b question but are a crankshaft sensor and a crankshaft position sensor the same thing? If not which will i need? Im assuming they are the same but dont want to go buying a wrong part

 

Same sensor.

 

Make sure you buy the BOSCH part only! These engine are extremely sensitive to other CPS sensors and many have problems soon after replacing them. Rarely the BOSCH gives a problem.

 

Crankshaft positions sensor and solder the Relay Control Module both super easy fixes I have had both problems you had all within a few months of each other.

 

It would be helpful to know what code is turning the light on - but in any event', I'd do what BP says: Change the CPS and resolder all the joints on the RCM

You can search here for "CPS" and "RCM repair" for details. And again, you want a BOSCH CPS ONLY!

 

My local Benz dealership has this one in stock, Is this the correct replacent?

Mercedes Benz Crankshaft Position Sensor - BOSCH - 0261210170 - NEW OEM MB Crank | eBay

 

Part picked from dealer and in hand. Going to try and tackle it myself. Any words of advice/tips before i go ahead? Anything to watch out for? and how long should it take?

 

After crawling under my car to retrieve the little bolt on the sensor.. I found a piece of duct tape over the socket holds onto the screw pretty good.. break the bolt-screw loose then put duct tape on the socket and finish unscrewing it.. bolt should remain in the socket.. And handy for dropping it back into the hole to start.

 

Awesome thanks. How long should the job take? and is it easier to do the whole thing from under the car or still accessible from top?

 

Sorry ive just realised what ive said. And its quite obvious work is done from top haha sorry

 

Check out this linky.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post624957

 

I would have told you the part numbed ends in something like 27 28 or 26 27 or like that.

But I remember reading that the number changed to something ending in 170 - so I think you are good.


Oh, Crap, just saw this:
This item is Mercedes Benz OE # 003 153 27 28 ( 0031532728 ).
This item also replaces Mercedes Benz # 003 153 28 28 ( 0031532828 ).

Yea, you are good!

 

Thankyou so much for everyones input. I was quoted $313 for a mobile mechanic to come out and replace the crank sensor, with your help and guidance i managed to do it for $30 (cost of an e torx set) very appreciative guys.

 

1 last question. Is there any specific thing that would have caused it to become faulty or just wear and tear? I read something about irregular voltage supply or surges in voltage can cause it? If this is correct im concerned about my after market stereo as its a dual battery setup and minor surges are bound to happen given the car is currently a competitive car audio car . Having now replaced the part though i struggle to see how a power surge could cause it as it seems barely related to the electricals but correct me if m wrong.

 

They seem to just go bad over time. It seems like many fail between 40,000 & 70,000 miles.