XF engine upgrades for more power
I work in the oilfield and that's how we fix things. If a hammer doesnt fix it, get a bigger hammer! lol
Montague county Texas isn't back online..
As far as K&n's, no they don't really do anything for performance, or it's so minimal it wouldn't be noticable, but it does make it breath a little better and actually, to my ear, when I change the stocks out..........it sounded better.
As far as the tune, 24 hp (claimed by Euro) for $300 is pretty damn good value. Yes, I got the tune on sale. If you don't then the value is diminished but let's just say it's the easier most cost effective mod you can do and I do notice a difference in response / quickness etc. (I did a write up on my experience in the N/A Performance Sale thread back in the summer). You don't have to install, unbolt, move, drain, etc. All you have to do is plug er in and let them do the software mod. Anyway, IMHO, it's well worth it.
There is no flickering at those speeds in my car.
By the sound of it you need to rethink how your car is setup and how are going about this problem. If your lights are "flickering" at those speeds or anything higher than an idle its not your alternator. Get a capacitor and/or additional battery.
An altinator charges your battery which it does because you are able to start your car after a drive without putting it on a charger. Your battery is not keeping up with the demand of the amp(s) thats why "flickering" happens. If the alternator wasnt doing what it is suppose to your lights would just get dimmer and dimmer as the beat goes on.
Make sence?
Like I said, evosport UD pulleys did not cause my lights to flicker with additional electronics.
People just thow in a great stereo system and expect any factory setup to be able to power it. Thats why you will always get bad reviews with any component being "underdriven" (slowed down). Car Audio stores around here sell proper batteries/capacitors but not once have they said I will need to buy one...
By the sound of it you need to rethink how your car is setup and how are going about this problem. If your lights are "flickering" at those speeds or anything higher than an idle its not your alternator. Get a capacitor and/or additional battery.
An altinator charges your battery which it does because you are able to start your car after a drive without putting it on a charger. Your battery is not keeping up with the demand of the amp(s) thats why "flickering" happens. If the alternator wasnt doing what it is suppose to your lights would just get dimmer and dimmer as the beat goes on.
Make sence?
Like I said, evosport UD pulleys did not cause my lights to flicker with additional electronics.
People just thow in a great stereo system and expect any factory setup to be able to power it. Thats why you will always get bad reviews with any component being "underdriven" (slowed down). Car Audio stores around here sell proper batteries/capacitors but not once have they said I will need to buy one...
The only time I have ever needed a capacitor was in my old car running 4 10's via 1600 watt's RMS. I bought a 1 farad. Yes that would probably help in my new situation but I am only running 2 10's now at 400 watt's RMS. If I threw the 1 farad cap in, it would eventually reach a limit when I upgrade. So instead of spending alot of money for a good cap, I could just buy a bigger alternator to do the same thing, correct? If the alternator is the power supply for the car once running, wouldnt a bigger alternator supply enough power evenly to the battery (which is where my power wire is connected) to avoid spikes/flickering?
The only time I have ever needed a capacitor was in my old car running 4 10's via 1600 watt's RMS. I bought a 1 farad. Yes that would probably help in my new situation but I am only running 2 10's now at 400 watt's RMS. If I threw the 1 farad cap in, it would eventually reach a limit when I upgrade. So instead of spending alot of money for a good cap, I could just buy a bigger alternator to do the same thing, correct? If the alternator is the power supply for the car once running, wouldnt a bigger alternator supply enough power evenly to the battery (which is where my power wire is connected) to avoid spikes/flickering?
Just my $0.02
Capacitors, lets say a 5 farad, which would be more than enough for your current system or anything you want to upgrade to that would fit in a XF are like $100 on fleabay and will greatly reduce the strain on your OEM alternater. Lets consider the alternate, a new, larger alternater or getting yours double spun, either option is minimum 5x the cost of the capacitor. Get the cheap insurance because if you continue to drive it the way it is, you are going to lose an alternater and that will be a lot more than the capacitor.
Just my $0.02
Just my $0.02
Makes sense, didnt realize prices came down so much on capacitor's. Thanks beaner and Boiler for the info.
Its crazy man! I swear I bought my 1 farad for almost $100 around 4 years ago. I think Im going to try the big 3 first though, if that doesnt fix it then Ill look into a cap.
Have you considered one of these? They're freaking awesome and we've got multiple pages dedicated to it.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...crossfire.html
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...crossfire.html
Let us know how it goes, I don't think there will be any difference. If you were upgrading the wiring in a hyundai maybe, but not in a benz. If you are right, it would be a cheap mod...
It started from mentioning Underdrive pulleys...
A better electrical system would result in more power...
Speaking of power up grades has any one heard of a replacment for the cams ,back in the day that was a tried and true way of cheaply increasing power?
Cheers
Mongoose57
Cheers
Mongoose57
Super sport camshafts for 240-350 V6 (M112)
I dont want to make a new thread to dedicate to something minor but, this weekend I did 1 of the big 3 upgrades. The ground to chassis with 0 guage. I couldnt find a good place on the block to comfortably put another ground from the battery there, and the alternator to battery is already 1/0, there would be literally no point to replace that unless it was coroded. Since I was at it though I put on new terminals (mainly to hold the fat wire for the ground), and voila! no flickering as long as I am moving in gear. Idle it still flickers, which I expected. So I think Im going to buy a 1 farad cap and all should be good, idle or otherwise.


