Sorry, I knew that was glass, I misread your post assuming we were still talking about the front plastic cover.

 

Where are you located that your headlights are expected to do more than glow.

Should the headlights be expected to illuminate the road ahead? For you to see me and me to see you. You young guys -under 45- can see in the dark; the rest of us not so good.

What next? Brakes that stop the vehicle in less than 10k feet?

Should we expect computers that can + - * / ?

Americans to speak English?

If more states required headlights to illuminate the road ahead, manufactures would be forced to prove longer lasting lenses.

Sanding removes the UV protective coating. The results are not in as to how long these HL restoration kits are going to hold up.

In case you haven't noticed, this is one of my hot spots.

 

I have been sanding and polishing headlamps long before there was a kit for it.
Yes, sanding it will remove the uv coating. Some cars have no coating. In this case the crossfire does.
After you sand and polish wax your lenses!!!
If you wax your headlamps when you detail your car the lamps can stay nice for a long time.
Also once the coating is completely remove it is easier to polish them again in the future.
I prefer a product called "liquid glass" it is an expensive wax but works as advertised.
It also has good uv properties that will help keep the lenses from turning so fast.

 

hey dont knock turtle wax products !!!! Ive been using their chrome cleaner for more than 30 yrs !!!!!!!!!!!!11

 

I've never used one of those kits for my lights just plan old toothpaste on all my vehicles and it seems to work just fine. the lenses look brand new on all my vehicles as well as my limousines and funeral coaches.

 

I'd be interested to know your method with the tooth paste.

 

just put the toothpaste on your headlights like you put wax on your car with a clean towel then take another clean towel and polishe the lights as you would do to remove wax from your car. the build up on your headlights will come right off.

 

Sounds like it's a good way to prevent cavities in the lights, do you use tooth paste with fluoride?

I have used Brasso before and it works for a while. In my work we used to make models of parts like tumblers and glassware from Lexan and it was hard to get really nice shiny parts that had been turned and polished on the lathe, until we learned a trick. The trick was to polish as best we could and then with the part spinning in the lathe put an acetylene flame on it. It worked like magic, the surface was momentarily melted a few tenths of a thou thick and the surface took on a glass like shine, something to see. I am not sure I would put an acetylene flame on my lights though.

Another trick to finish molded plastic lenses is to use a very volatile liquid, the name of which escapes me. This liquid evaporates very rapidly after dissolving the surface and leaves a highly polished surface. Not very environmentally friendly though without the proper equipment.

 

Just tried the toothpaste on the wife's Tribeca headlights. Works great, AND they're minty fresh. Thanx.

 

See I told you..your welcome my friend

 

I have NEVER seen a rack big enough to spin a crossfire on it, and following the headlights with the torch would be a challenge as well... This try would be a NO-GO for just about everyone else I am sure as well... The other solutions seem a little more possible 180, are you OK, keeping a schedule with all your meds?? Just wondering, we all care about you and want only the best! He he he he he

 

I restored mine in my driveway this afternoon with a $30 Meguiars kit. They look brand new.

 

C'mon! You've never heard of a "Rotisserie" restoration?

And, to be honest, I very recently "flame polished" both some Lucite and some polycarbonate (Lexan) pieces at my lab. Quite a common method for finishing machined surfaces and providing a glassy surface.

 

Max, next time I'm over, if I see you approaching with a blowtorch, it's gonna be a short visit.

 

If the surface is that oxidized, wouldn't you be concerned that firing the surface would bake those impurities into the poly? The temp wouldn't reach the flash point to burn them off.

 

"....Enter at Your Own Risk..."

 

I would never even try this on a large, flat surface. And, you are 100% correct. The surface must be clean and uniform for this to work. Do a You Tube search for for "Flame Polishing Acrylic". It will give you an idea of what you can do with it.

And MAPP is better than Propane. And Hydrogen is better yet. Never used Acetylene.