Hey guys. 2004 automatic base owner here. Recently found out that my neutral safety switch has been been the cause of my car not starting at times and need to get it replaced.

After searching and searching I can’t find the one that would be compatible with my crossfire. Does anybody know the part number/Mercedes equivalent that I would need to replace it?

thanks

 

Being a little ignorant of this setup, is there an adjustment for said switch? The switch might be fine. Again, I am ignorant of this particular setup (I own an auto as well).


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You are looking for a part that does not exist, you want the "Park-Neutral Switch". The fact you are told to go find a part with the wrong identifier makes me question the advice you are getting.

You better get into the service manual. That was the first time I ever looked in the chapter on the auto transmission - after a few minutes in that chapter, I'd think the best thing for you to do is to sell the car for parts and get a six speed manual - WAY easier to deal with. (No, seriously, look in that chapter - OMG, who would want to deal with all that...)

 

[QUOTE=KingDrogba;936221]Hey guys. 2004 automatic base owner here. Recently found out that my neutral safety switch has been been the cause of my car not starting at times and need to get it replaced.

After searching and searching I can’t find the one that would be compatible with my crossfire. Does anybody know the part number/Mercedes equivalent that I would need to replace it?

thanks[/QUOTE

"YOUR CAR NOT STARTING AT TIMES" you need to give us more details. Not giving you a hard time, but what you say has several corrective measures. Please, give us the details as to how, when , your car doesn't start. Also who told you it was the neutral safety switch AND why/how did he/she come up with that prognostic. Give us the number for the DTC Diagnostic Trouble Code and then we can help.
The Neutral/Park switch is part of the solenoid plate in the transmission and to my knowledge does not have a part number in and of itself, but is replaced as part of the entire solenoid plate.

 

[QUOTE=zip439;936269]Thanks for the reply. Sorry for not providing more details in my original post, so let me see if I can expand, I'm not very good on expanding technical aspects so please bear with me.

Basically, a few days ago I tried turning on my car, however the engine wouldn't crank, only the lights on the dash would turn on. I resolved this by turning the keys completely into the the 'off' position, wiggling the gearshift (in the park position side to side), turning the key and then the car turned on. Initially, I didn't think anything of this at first, as we were having cold weather in the 30's in Florida so I just chalked it up to that, but then after it happened a few more times later in the week I had assumed it was my battery going bad (even though it was only a little over a year old). So I replaced it, but the issue still occurred and can only be resolved after wiggling the gearshift. After doing some more research I discovered that I had many of the symptoms of a bad neutral safety switch which could also only be resolved by moving the gearshift. I saw a couple posts of the same issue here on the forums, which sound a lot like my problem. After discussing all of the circumstances with my mechanic, he believes it's the same issue as well. The only problem is that he cannot recreate my issue, as when I took it to him, the car started without issue every single time.

I do have some check engine codes, but they're mainly just secondary Air injector, EGR codes and a couple of bad 02 sensors so I'm not necessarily sure if they'd affect the ability for my car to start. But you'd certainly know more than me, so any suggestion and help is more than appreciated.

Thanks!

 

You may be correct, however replacing the solenoid plate in the transmission is not an fun thing. I think you are limited in the info the scan tool is giving you. The tool seems to be a generic OBD II and thus it will not show transmission codes, SRS or A/C codes. To be more certain where/what the problem is I recommend you get the car scanned with a scan tool that can reach into the Mercedes transmission codes. Your best way to do that is either buy a tool yourself (you can get them for under $200), or take the car to an independent repair shop that specializes in European/Mercedes cars. DO NOT GO TO A DEALERSHIP! The scan tool should come up with something like a 2221 or 2333 code either set or in storage. If you take it to a shop be certain to get the exact code number, not just an explanation as to what the mechanic interprets it to be. GET THE NUMBER and his/her opinion. Good Luck

 

RULES:

1) ALWAYS go to a dealership.
2) ALWAYS leave them a blank check.
3) NEVER call and ask how they are coming with the car - they will call you when they have given up on it.
4) The cost of towing your car home or to another shop is never included in the dealer's invoice.
5) YOU WILL be taking the car elsewhere, but remember you must pay the dealer for their 'work' first.

 

Kingdrogba before you go too far the most common no start issues are bad grounds/battery problems and RCM ( Relay Control Module ). I hope you have read the post on Mystery No Start issues in the TSB and How to section of the forum. If you haven't, you really need to start here: Mystry No Start there are a few bad solder joints and with time the contacts on the relays go bad.

Also you should be certain all the connectors in the large block box just inward from your battery are snug and tight. Inside that box is the RCM, PCM and the BCM. Others have corrected the no start issue by simply wiggling and pushing in on the the connectors to those boards.

 

THE BEST advice of what NOT TO DO! Heed this and you'll get your car back on the road (probably)! This small post by pizzaguy should be mandatory reading for all membership (unless you have GOBBS of $ to throw away).


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If I remember correctly the neutral safety switch is a part of the gear change mechanism and is not repairable. A new/used gear change mechanism is required.
Liquids spilt on the gear change mechanism spells trouble.

Brake Transmission Shift Interlock
BTSI is a safety feature that enables the shift selector lever to stay locked in the Park position when the brake pedal is not depressed (ignition on) or when there is no current present in the Shift Lever Assembly. If the Shift Lever Assembly selector lever cannot be shifted from the Park position due to a mechanical or electrical failure, the selector lever can be released from the Park position using the shift lock override procedure. To do this, insert a long screwdriver into the notch just below the “-D+” symbol on the Shift Lever Assembly and depress the lock button while moving the selector lever out of the Park position at the same time. This will allow the shift lever to be manually moved out of the Park position in order to move the vehicle.

 

i believe there are two solenoid switches in the SLA Shift Lever Assembly; The BTSI and the Park Reverse Interlock. The BTSI prevents the shift lever from moving out of Park unless the brake peddle is depressed and the Park Reverse switch/solenoid prevents shifting the lever into park or reverse when the car is moving above 5~6 mph. The park neutral switch is located on the solenoid plate in the transmission. The OP has not mentioned being unable to move the shift lever out of Park.
I think until he gets a better scan (assuming it isn't the RCM, see post post #8) it is just a guess as to what the problem might be. The SLA could certainly be the cause of the problem.