OK my new to me 04 Coupe had ded batteries in the remote does have right key. Just got some new 2025s and applied two. My remote tester shows a good 300-320 MHz signal when any button is pressed.
Point at car and pressed lock twice. Got in and turned key to RUN within 30 seconds. Nada. Repeated and still no response. Lock/unlock on dash works so pump OK. Any suggestions ? Am I doing something rong ? YWTK

 

I have long been convinced that it's not "within 30 seconds" but more like within 10 seconds. I program keys like this:

Get in car, close door.
Insert key in ignition, do not rotate the key.
Press lock or unlock twice.
Turn to ON within a few seconds and leave it on about 5 seconds.
Turn off, remove key, get out of car, close door and try it.

I often must try it two or three times before it works.

 

Tried five or six times but nothing. Verified fob is transmitting but car not responding. Lock/Unlock switch on console works properly but key must be on. Ideas welcomed.

 

You may have corrupted memory in the SKREEM, that is, it knows about that FOB but there is something 'wrong' with the memorization of the FOB's data.
Yank fuse 37 and leave it out for a LONG time, maybe 1/2 hour. I THINK the memory in the SKREEM that supports the FOB's codes is in RAM and it will 'forget'.

I know of no other way to clear it and am not even sure THAT will clear it, but if you take the BATTERY out of the car for a while, the SKREEM forgets the FOB so why not try it?

If the FOB is transmitting, gotta be some sort of confusion or corruption. I suppose the FOB could be goofy, if you have another one, try it.

 

Will try. Just got the car and is having a few teething pains but am surprised at how much works properly. Do have many spare parts and documentation from my previous coupe and can check things on my SLK320. After pulling fuse (may leave overnight), try again the same way ?
ps putting key in door only locks door, not other things, wonder if connected.

 

The driver's door lock cylinder is wire directly to the SKREEM. Your key won't sync and the driver door lock cylinder won't work either?
SOunds like trouble with a capitol "T" with the SKREEM. Verify fuse 37 is good.

 

Had to edit my post above after I looked at the service manual.

 

OK 37 is good but pulled it, will check for power tomorrow. Suspect the SLK230 has the same SKREEM, fob looks the same. It is good to have a similar parts car.

 

OK replaced fuse 37 and tried several times. nada. Door key lock locks/unlocks door only. Console switch operates all locks including hatch. Opening door unlocks hatch.
Red ring thingie diode does not flash. Second key seems to be just a key. Who nose what a PO has done.

Needs more invasive testing. Can a good SKREEM and fob be taken from another car or is programming required ?

 

I would first call Josh at MSS, (Mercedese Swap Shop) and ask him.

 

Are you sure the FOB batteries are installed in the right direction?


.

 

Thank you. What is the red thingie with diode you put around key in ignition and flashes called ? Am finding out why is otherwise very nice but remote does not work and BAS/ESP illuminates but not traction contol when warmed up a little and has been through auctions twice and was quite inexexpensive. This is a wierdie even for me.

BTW my remote tester verifies that fob is transmitting at 300-320Mhz when I press each button.

 

Lets all sit at our computers and guess.
NO.
Lets go thru this LOGICALLY.

1) The switch on the console locks and unlocks everything fine. This means: The console switch group, BCM and CLP/SSM work well together.
2) The key switch in the door does not work - this is wired directly to the SKREEM, which then tells the BCM and CLP/SSM what to do, but the SKREEM is not doing this.
3) The FOB is proven to be transmitting, so it's batteries are good and are contacting the tabs inside. While the key FOB might still be sending gibberish due to a bad board or corrosion, I doubt that.
4) It seems like you can't sync the FOB with the SKREEM, this is the second hint the SKREEM is at fault.

You either have a bad FOB (and you and I both doubt that) or a goofy SKREEM. Remember, there are two halves of the SKREEM, the RKE (Remote Key Entry) half and the "Secure Start" half that starts the engine and is the usual cause of the "Three cranks then nothing" start failure. In your case, it seems like the RKE half is insane.

I'd call Josh at the MSS and see what is diagnosis is.

You can yank the ECU/SKREEM/Ignition switch and key FOB from another car but even that has "gotcha's" you really don't want to deal with. I'd say it's easier to get Josh's help and probably no more expensive, as well as faster.

 

Sent an e-mail describing issue to Josh. Am starting to wonder what a PO may have done and if there is even a SKREEM there, second key does not appear to have a chip and red thingie diode does not flash. Helps to have an SLK320 I can compare.

 

Reading through past posts I wonder if the lack of dome or interior lights is related ? Have been fighting scan tool "communications error for some time
Did find A Bunch of things relating to BAS/ESP: Am amazed it starts and runs so well. Does this group make sense to anyone ? BAS/ESP light is on but not traction control (swervy icon)
C1012 Stored
Terminal 87 has overvoltage.
C1200 Stored
S9/1 (Stop lamp switch) : Plausibility
C1140-16 Stored
N49 (Steering angle sensor) :Signal faulty
C1140-64 Stored
N49 (Steering angle sensor) :Steering angle sensor is not initialized.
C1140-128 Stored
N49 (Steering angle sensor) :Steering angle sensor is not initialized.
C1141-2
MIL ON&Stored&Current
Pressure sensor :B34/1 (ESP pressure sensor 1) : Electrical fault
C1141-4
MIL ON&Stored&Current
Pressure sensor :Zero point offset error of component B34/2 (ESP pressure sensor 2)
C1141-8
MIL ON&Stored&Current
Pressure sensor :Zero point offset error of component B34/1 (ESP pressure sensor 1)
C1141-16
MIL ON&Stored&Current
Pressure sensor :B34/1 (ESP pressure sensor 1) , B34/2 (ESP pressure sensor 2) : Plausibility error
C1202 Stored
A7/7s1 (BAS release switch) : Plausibility

 

My wiring diagrams are for 07-08 models, changes were made.
Get the 04-05 service manual, head for the "wiring" section and see what else the fuse for the dome light feeds. In 07-08, it powers at least part of the BCM.

If you are going to try to find this without the service manual, you are going to waste a lot of time. YOu don't know the history of the car, you could have water damage in a module, chewed wires, or damage from overvoltage due to a battery cable coming loose. OR, it could be something pitifully simple.

I spend a lot of time helping people with their cars when the car suddenly develops a problem. Working on an "unknown" like yours can be WAY harder. This may take considerable effort, but you will know a LOT more about the car at the end of this.

 

Sorry, thought I mentioned, have 2004 Owner's manual, service manual, and parts book. No fuse mentioned for the dome light and saw somewhere it is controlled by the BCM. Right now am more concerned about the inability to lock all doors and hatch with key and remote does not work. Next I need to figure out why the BAS/ESP light is on, then occasional P0122. Dome light is further down the list unless it relates to others.
Spending too much time onnit. Worst case will add a pushbutton to lock everything. Opening driver's door unlocks all. AM wondering if a PO somehow removed the SKREEM.
Have had the car since Thursday.

 

TRy this: Using the key, does locking and unlocking the driver's door using the blade of the key lock and unlock all the other doors at the same time? I am NOT talking about OPENING the door, but about using the driver's door lock cylinder. From the factory, that driver's door lock is wired to the SKREEM, and the SKREEM then tells the CLP/SSM that an authorized person opened the door. So if the SKREEM is gone, the only way this can work, is if the SKREEM has been replaced by a module that performs this function. Up till LAST WEEK, there was no device that did that, that I know of, until Andre came out with the SKREEMULATOR.

Any way you can get information from a previous owner so you know what you are up against?

 

"does locking and unlocking the driver's door using the blade of the key lock and unlock all the other doors at the same time?" no, just the driver's door, only the console switch locks all but key must be on. Scanners work in OBD mode but when I give it the car specific it goes for a few minutes and fails with "communications failure". Two different professional level scanners. Tried to find PO but is in Georgia and no success so far. Seems to have come from a Georgia auction last June. Started out as a great deal and am finding out why. Still good and in the right place since can compare to SLK320, electrically is the same. Concened that the red thingie does not flash and spare key does not seem to be a chip key (wondering where my chip reader is). Can you see the SKREEM from underneath with the panel removed ?

Oh well, runs and drive great, brakes work, and AC is cold. All else is minor.

 

NO, the SKREEM is behind the speedometer. They really buried it.
Sounds like hte SKREEM may be gone or not powered up or just bad.

No key of the three cars I've had ever lit the red light on the FOB.