I have a 2006 limited roadster metal gray
Battery keeps going dead every time I let it sit for a few days Ive taken it in to the dealership, I told tell them something is wrong. I'm just a girl so they just replaced the battery. any one heard of this before? thanks
MSXFIRE

 

You need to look and see if everything is shutting off when you park it. If you know anyone with a meter or test light you could do a current draw test with the battery disconnected. These cars do draw a lot from the battery but mine sits for weeks and starts right up. My 2004 would go dead all the time, never could find the problem. I had to keep a trickle charger on it. Hope this helps.

 

Here is a quote from member Black Diamond on another thread. Maybe that's the problem. I know that sometimes it doesn't close tight the first time.

 

I was just going over the times it has gone dead on me, this last may have something to do with the trunk because it wouldnt let me put the top down on my way home that day it was cold so I just figuered I'd fix it when I got home and of course I forgot. thanks Ill check it out. msxfire

 

YUP,slam that trunk lid, I pulled the light bulb out of the trunk fixture, after the third flat battery, How ever some one pointed out that the computer keeps searching for a fault as the lid is tied into the convertable top, and this is also a drain on the battery!. No Problems since I started double checking the trunk lid

 

If the lite in the trunk works the same as the coupe 2004. It will go off after about 20 minutes even with the trunk open.

 

This is from the MB forum with the cars just like ours.

"i located the issue of it being my passenger side seat controls draining the battery... just have it unplugged as or right now"

If you still have the problem try this.

They said the seat controls go bad and drain the battery, that the Mercedes Benz car has a TSB for it. I couldn't locate it, but it's worth a try.

Cruzinquick

 

Same as above - trunk was left slightly ajar and light stayed on until battery was dead. I don't think the light shuts off and the trunk is too small to get in for a few hours and observe. Otherwise I leave the car for weeks at a time in the winter (stored) and it has started up every time.

 

Do check the power seats, I had a dodge that did this due to the wool seat cover that pushed the seat buttons and killed the battery till I found it.

 

Parasitic draw (current being used for KAM Keep Alive Memory- radio presets, adaptive strategy, etc.) on normal cars 95-02 is about 0.5A or 500 mA. If you have more computers than others (example '06 BMW 7-series has 107 computer moules in the whole car) your parasitic draw can be higher, a lot higher. Not sure what the spec for a Crossfire is though. Only thing to look out for is with a dying battery, you put more strain on the alternator and dead batteries can result in a replaced battery and alternator @ the same time.

 

I had a new battery fitted yesterday it's gone dead already I'm confused

 

Did you tighten the cable contacts?

 

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Maybe left the curb lights on overnight accidentally (two left hand clicks on light switch, far left leaves the left side lights on, first click to left (from 12 o'clock position OFF) is the right side curb lights?


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Most of the time it is bad batteries in the alarm siren shorting out. Has the alarm siren ever been replaced or removed?

 

You can' waste your entire summer guessing at what is wrong.

OR, You can get to the bottom of this and get it fixed. If that is what you want to do, here is the procedure:

1) Open hood.
2) Take key out of ignition.
3) Close glove box door, trunk lid and both doors.
4) Take battery ground cable off.
5) Insert meter between battery post and ground cable, set to 10amp scale.
6) Observe current reading (it will be .1 to .3 amps, if it is zero, you don't have the meter connected or configured properly).
Do not continue until you get a reading on the meter.
7) WAIT THREE MINUTES - the current reading will go down, as modules hibernate.
8) AFTER THREE MINUTES - any current reading over 55mA (.055 amp) is a problem.

If you have too much current, start pulling fuses until the current drops below .055 amp - Pulling some fuses will cause the current to go UP, this is due to 'waking' a module somewhere, wait three minutes and it should go back down, only then believe the reading on the meter.

If NO fuse causes the current to go down enough, in the little black box next to battery (size of a pack of cigarettes):
9) --- Remove one 50 amp fuse that goes to engine fan - it is labeled.
If that does not do it:
10) --- Remove other 50 amp fuse, that goes to brake controller - it is labeled.
If that does not do it:
11) --- Remove 200 amp fuse that feeds entire car - if that does it, you need real help. My rate is $100 per hour plus $1600 travel expenses.
If that does not do it:
12) --- Remove BIG red cable from back of alternator - if that does it, you need a new alternator (or get the one you have rebuilt, but make sure the guy knows it has a bad diode(s) ).
If that does not do it:
You, again, need real help. My rate is $100 per hour plus $1600 travel expenses. (You should report the car stolen at this point.)

 

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Pizzaguys post should be a .pdf and archived!


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Pizzaguy should be archived.

 

Hahahahahahhaaaaaa!!!!! OMG I needed that!


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I am almost ready, some days, to see my career archived. I have less and less tolerance for lazy and dishonest people.
I am also DONE with small-minded thinking in the business world, and there is WAY too much of that.

But tha'ts all off-topic here....................................

 

Thanks pizzaguy! I have a 2004 that I have had since November of 2019. I have had issues with the battery dying on me. Yesterday I found your post about step by step with the meter removing the fuses. My old meter would not show amps so I went to AutoZone and go a new $40 meter, and it does what I need it to do. My initial reading were .229 then when I go to the fuse for the alarm siren, horn, lights etc. when I pulled that one out, it dropped down to .013 and when I then removed the fuse for the radio, it dropped to .009. Radio drain I can live with, but the alarm siren drain is what is killing me or in this case my battery. Short term I am going to unplug it the alarm unit, long term I am going to replace the module. Thanks so much, I am a smart guy in that I know enough to search the web to find the correct answers. I don't think I would have thought to do this step by step procedure on my own. Again, thanks so much.