oil change pump
I also have the mityvac and the second time I used it it took a while to pull all the oil out. I have a air compressor so was thinking of trying the model that you connect to the compressor to provide the suction. Has anyone tried this yet?
Originally Posted by InfernoRedXfire
I was just looking to buy that at Amazon and was thinking what a hassle it would be to return it if it were defective. I wonder if any of the big box auto parts places sell them at reasonable prices?
Originally Posted by pe3046
I also have the mityvac and the second time I used it it took a while to pull all the oil out. I have a air compressor so was thinking of trying the model that you connect to the compressor to provide the suction. Has anyone tried this yet?
look here
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/S...&searchbtn.y=8
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/MIT-7201.html
MityVac 7201
Fluid Evacuator Plus
Order# MIT7201
$63.25 On Sale!
$107.10 List Price
[Add to Cart] [View Cart]
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/S...&searchbtn.y=8
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/MIT-7201.html
MityVac 7201 Fluid Evacuator Plus
Order# MIT7201
$63.25 On Sale!
$107.10 List Price
[Add to Cart] [View Cart]
Last edited by huudoo; Apr 21, 2008 at 12:12 PM.
Originally Posted by huudoo
oh ya if u use ramps most likely youll scuff up the front spoiler i did..also have to get under the car as well,
the oil pan has a lip on it where the drain plug is so
all of the oil don't drain anyway.
the oil pan has a lip on it where the drain plug is so
all of the oil don't drain anyway.
I simply use two 2X8" pieces of wood 12" long (one under each front tire) with the end cut at a 45 degree angle so the tires roll right up on it.
This raises the front end enough for me to reach everything I need to get to, when ever I change my oil.
I'd still like to know exactly where that illusive "LIP" is everybody keeps talking about. Huudoo, maybe your oil pan has under gone "Collagen treatments".
I've drained my oil at least 7 times, and even after jacking it up on the drivers side no more oil came out.
I personally feel draining from the oil pan is the most effective way to do an oil change on our car. But I can also see how the pump method is easier and faster, (why else would the dealer use it?)
I'm with Cgocifer on this one. But if I changed my oil in the winter, I'd probably use the pump method instead of laying on a cold concrete floor in my garage.
Originally Posted by +fireamx
You don't need ramps to get under the car, you don't even need a jack.
I simply use two 2X8" pieces of wood 12" long (one under each front tire) with the end cut at a 45 degree angle so the tires roll right up on it.
This raises the front end enough for me to reach everything I need to get to, when ever I change my oil.
I'd still like to know exactly where that illusive "LIP" is everybody keeps talking about. Huudoo, maybe your oil pan has under gone "Collagen treatments".
But the bottom of my oil pan is flat, and the oil drain plug is on the side of the pan. The bottom of the plugs threads line up exactly with the bottom of the inside of the oil pan, and does not create a "lip". I even stuck my little finger inside, and felt no lip.
I've drained my oil at least 7 times, and even after jacking it up on the drivers side no more oil came out.
I personally feel draining from the oil pan is the most effective way to do an oil change on our car. But I can also see how the pump method is easier and faster, (why else would the dealer use it?)
I'm with Cgocifer on this one. But if I changed my oil in the winter, I'd probably use the pump method instead of laying on a cold concrete floor in my garage.
I simply use two 2X8" pieces of wood 12" long (one under each front tire) with the end cut at a 45 degree angle so the tires roll right up on it.
This raises the front end enough for me to reach everything I need to get to, when ever I change my oil.
I'd still like to know exactly where that illusive "LIP" is everybody keeps talking about. Huudoo, maybe your oil pan has under gone "Collagen treatments".
I've drained my oil at least 7 times, and even after jacking it up on the drivers side no more oil came out.
I personally feel draining from the oil pan is the most effective way to do an oil change on our car. But I can also see how the pump method is easier and faster, (why else would the dealer use it?)
I'm with Cgocifer on this one. But if I changed my oil in the winter, I'd probably use the pump method instead of laying on a cold concrete floor in my garage.
When I managed a Shell station years ago, a woman came in and asked for the manager. When I came out to see her she said. " My husband sent me over to see if you could stick your finger in my rear end to see if there's any oil in there."
Last edited by chuck65; Apr 21, 2008 at 02:24 PM.
LOL , yep I have a different one ,
i could see if the drain plug was at the bottom of the oil pan
then maybe all the oil could be drained,
Oh , do u lift the rear of the car also , to make sure the car is level
but thanks for the info on the short lift job
two 2X8" pieces of wood 12" long (one under each front tire)
i could see if the drain plug was at the bottom of the oil pan
then maybe all the oil could be drained,
Oh , do u lift the rear of the car also , to make sure the car is level
but thanks for the info on the short lift job
two 2X8" pieces of wood 12" long (one under each front tire)
Last edited by huudoo; Apr 22, 2008 at 04:13 PM.
Originally Posted by huudoo
Oh , do u lift the rear of the card also , to make sure the car is level
If I ever get my car back from the dealer (going on 4 weeks) I plan on doing an oil change. I'll put a level on the bottom of the pan just to see if it is.
Have this on my SRT8 and plan on adding one to the SRT6 next change.
Use the "N" series with a short piece of hose and direct the oil where needed.
Also if so inclined, you can cut an access hole in the plastic belly pan so it does not need to be removed when changing the oil.
http://www.fumotousa.com/
BTW:If you are concerned with the amount of oil left in the pan using the drain plug , use your topsider and when you think it is "empty" pull the drain plug. Far more residual left using the pump than the plug.
Use the "N" series with a short piece of hose and direct the oil where needed.
Also if so inclined, you can cut an access hole in the plastic belly pan so it does not need to be removed when changing the oil.
http://www.fumotousa.com/
BTW:If you are concerned with the amount of oil left in the pan using the drain plug , use your topsider and when you think it is "empty" pull the drain plug. Far more residual left using the pump than the plug.
Okay. If you didnt like the about responses, see this thread.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ad.php?t=25119
MikeR
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ad.php?t=25119
MikeR
Have not seen this extractor mentioned. JABSCO Model 17860-0012, sells for $98.90 up. http://www.hodgesmarine.com/ProductD...-0012&click=19
Jabsco 3 1/2" Gallon Flat Tank Engine Oil Change System

John P
Jabsco 3 1/2" Gallon Flat Tank Engine Oil Change System

John P
I have done my oil change from the bottom and have used the ramps the plastic ones the rhino
they work very nice. Have left the car on the ramps over night so the ramps are strong. You have take off the splash guard and the oil pan is there. The rhinos are rated for 2,300 lbs each .
they work very nice. Have left the car on the ramps over night so the ramps are strong. You have take off the splash guard and the oil pan is there. The rhinos are rated for 2,300 lbs each .
splash guards will be gone on my next oil change...I see no use for them...I do the bottom thing, and I did the bottom thing on my boat as well...just attached a hose w/ plug end...could do this to XF, but I just don't see a need for the pan...maybe MB owners think its keeps their garages from getting oil on the floor, but I want to know when I have a leak...
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