Going in !!!!!1 My next oil change I'm going to use mobile-1 5w-50. It's hard to come by but I found a distributor that stocks it. EXPENSIVE but I want to see how the oil hold up. It's still within 229.3 standards and about as thick as I think I want to go ( 15w would be too thick). ANYONE else tried this weight oil yet ?

 

It's all I run!
See my sigline.

My oil pressure gauge tells the story... I'd keep it under 2000 or so until the engine gets to 170F, you'd be surprised how much thicker it is than 0W40.
At 185F, it will almost DOUBLE your idling oil pressure; mine went from 9-10 to 20 pounds.

(As indicated on an after-market oil gauge ... and not a really expensive one.)

I actually let mine warm up to at least 125F before drivign away, most of the time.

 

Thanks for the come back... I was a bit fearful about changing the oil weight but with the miles I have on the engine figure the boost of pressure couldn't hurt !! Good to know I'm not alone...HEHEH

 

I have to ask why bother, Pizzaguy gets higher psi readings because less oil is going through the system and hence the oil will get hotter and not cool and lubricate the bearings surfaces as it should. Higher psi is not really better, if he used 90 weight oil the readings might go off the dial. The psi read is back pressure and that is all.

Also waiting for the car to warm up is also not recommended as the quicker you get driving the better the oil warms up and starts doing it job better.

I would not want a car that has used this weight oil. Mind you his car can find the Dragon and go through it with its lights blind folded.

 

But not with it's current tires...

 

I use 5w-30 as the zero is hard to come by around here.

 

I changed the oil today and I used Mobil1 5w30 for the first time, because I had some on the shelf. I will see how it goes. I agree that high oil pressure readings are really not important because of where the pressure reading comes from.

James

 

5W50 is an approved weight in Mobil 1 if I'm not mistaken. From what I've read and concluded, you only need a thicker oil if oil pressure isn't sufficient at high rpms. Around 10 psi for each 1000 rpms is a good generalization. The 0 is to reduce wear at start up which is when most of the wear an engine sees in it's lifetime occurs. I've stayed with 0W40. From what I've read, it's one of the best grades Mobil makes. (Bobs the oil guy forum) I should send a sample in to Blackstone, or a similar lab, and have my used oil tested. Until tested, it's just guessing or "feels good to change". My current opinion and subject to change.

Les

 

Doc, Walmart in Lafayette is carrying it in 5 qt containers now. 0w40 $24 and change

 

I use Mobil 1 5W40 Diesel oil exclusively in all my engines. I provide the warranty.. It provides the zinc... Gary..

 

Umm.. is this where we hear how strained through coffee filters at an oil change it then provides your extra source of nutritional value? Sprinkled with magnesium it's quite tasty?

 

I don't know if the diesel oil is a great idea. I know it has more zinc but are the formulations for a diesel really OK for a gasoline engine? Why not use a gasoline oil in diesel engines then? I really don't know but IMO it's a better idea to buy a zinc additive for your favorite zinc deprived recommended oil. Not that I think diesel oil will have short term repercussions. Or will it? Don't know ...... why risk ........ let us know in 5 years or so.

Les

 

I will check that out. Thanks Larry.

 

I trust my Engine to the "Super Natural"

 

Doc, I've seen it at both the eastside and the south side Walmarts but don't know about the westside one. Both I've seen had plenty though.

 

You can also upgrade to their "Syntheic Blend" i should add 100hp!
Its also "super heavy duty", the last oil change you will ever have to do! lol

 

If my Audis and my Crossfires come with an oem recommendation of Mobil1 0W-40, then that is what I use. They do the engine design and worry about warranty issues, so they should know best.

 

I have to agree 1000%.

Go to O'Reily's, Auto Zone, or Wal Mart tell the manger you need 9 QTS of that oil and they WILL get it for you. (yes I know you only use 8.5QTs.) All of those Compnaies Carry 0W-40 Mobil one. If you really have a hard time email Mobil Oil and they will tell you where to get it, or send it to you...shipping charges added.

My Auto zone did not have it and they ordered it from their DC and I got it a week later.

KJ

 

Ditto, for all the good reasons! Not to mention (but I will) if anything happens to the motor, I don't want to get into a pissin' contest with them about the lifetime powertrain warranty repairs being denied because of a non-approved oil being used.

 

There are a lot of comments I COULD respond to, but I'm tired after this week's travel to Tulsa and back and I don't want to argue with any of my friends on Crossfireforum - so I will say this:

In 1994, I bought a new pickup, a GMC 1/2 ton with a 4.3L V6 in it. On the oil cap, it said, "5W20". I ran 5W20 for 10,000 or 12,000 miles, but I hated how the oil pressure would drop to 5 pounds at idle. I mentioned this to Galen, my older half-brother who had just retired from GM after 30 years. He was trained at GM institute DECADES before as an engineer, but ended up running various GM plants in Michigan. His response to me was:

"Mark, the significance of low oil pressure at high temperature is not all that alarming when the engine is new. Oils today lubricate better than in, say 1950. However, the recommended oil is based on factors in addition to engine wear. We have to meet the gov't mileage standards as well -and every little bit counts. A thinner oil is easier to pump and can save a TINY bit of mileage, but again, taken together with other measures, it all adds up. A thinner oil also protects the engine better at start up when most wear occurs, and for most drivers thinner oil serves them well as they often NEVER get the car to operating temperature running errands, etc.

But as an engine ages and wears, oil pressure drops due to sloppyness in bearings that occurs over time as the oil passes thru tolerances in, say, the crankshaft - this means less flow is available at the far end of what ever route the oil is taking. In this case, a heavier oil is recommended (this is where the designation "high mileage oil" comes from).

I then remembered the Ford vans we ran at Troup Electronics - they used cheap 10W30 oils in them and by 150,000 miles you could hear the rattles in the crank at idle, due to the low oil pressure and the wear that had occurred over the years. Could I avoid this in my own vehicle? I thought so...

Back to my pickup. I was warned by several mechanics and even more well-meaning but obviously ill-informed friends - "if you put heavy oil in that engine, you'll ruin it. These engines today are built to very tight tolerances, and you need a thin oil to get thru those passages." Sound familiar?

Anyway, at 10-12K, I moved to 15W40. I observed much better oil pressures. Somewhere around 150,000 miles, I went to 20W50. I sold that truck to my best friend, Ed in 2000 at around 232,000 miles. He runs 20 in the winter and 30 in the summer (yea, strait weight detergent oil!) On March 24, 2012 (my birthday) he sent me a cellphone-taken picture of the odomoter as he drove to work - 408,000 miles. The truck has had two radiators, many u joints, two wheel bearings, a fan motor, two water pumps, at least one heater core, one distributor and several sets of brakes replaced. But the block itself just goes on.

Run what ever oil you want to. Take or leave my advice in this thread - I'm good with it. But there is nothing so valuable as something learned from your own 53 years of life experience. This is what I have learned, and I live by it. No, I won't be putting 20 or 30 weight oil in my car - but 5W50 serves me well.






Oh, one more thing, Ed replaced the clutch at 390,xxx miles - because a bolt broke off! The clutch was still useable but since they had it apart, they replaced it.