'05 Crossfire Convertible Rear Window Adhesion
I've seen a lot of traffic and post regarding the rear window coming loose or falling out. I'm from Florida currently living in Maryland and I just noticed that my window too is also started come loose around the bottom edge. Through numerous calls to car upholstry shops they said its a common problem and the cost would be about $2,000 on average to fix. On a whim I just called the dealership and they stated that there was no warranties outstanding based off my VIN. I then told them what I learned via the forum and from another dealership that the rear window should be covered for (rear window adhesion) under warranty for 10 years and/or 120,000 miles. I would you believe they said oh yes I see it now. Taking it in next week to be looked at. Good luck for those who have the same problem.
Dale
Dale
Be aware that the replacement tops under the recall are the same as the original, prone to the same window failure over time.
Just sayin .......
Just sayin .......
Last edited by ala_xfire; Aug 25, 2014 at 08:09 AM.
5142572AC
That part being advertised on E-Bay coming from Chrysler dealers indicates
NEW REDESIGN TOP AND REAR WINDOW ASSEMBLY!!!!
or
NEW MOPAR FACTORY OEM UP-DATED TOP AND REAR WINDOW
Bob, all I know is I got my replacement top from the local Chrysler dealer, and although it had a different manufacturer ( Valmet ), I researched and found that Valmet bought out the Karmann top business, so in effect the replacement top is the same as the OEM Karmann.
Upon physical examination of the rear window bonding of the 2 tops, maxcichon and I saw no difference whatsoever.
Upon physical examination of the rear window bonding of the 2 tops, maxcichon and I saw no difference whatsoever.
Last edited by ala_xfire; Aug 25, 2014 at 09:21 AM.
I'm not sure if I should be happy or worried that I can see no separation. However, MI is a lot cooler than the southern states and I keep the roadster garaged most of the time, normally with the top down. So it is not baking in the heat with gravity working on the weight of the glass. Should I worry, fellow northerners?
Check with your dealership. If the car has a warrant out for the top, and if the dealer will change it out at no charge to you and it even comes with a life time warranty on the rear window, i would go ahead and change it out. If not it could get costly later on.
Have fun!!!
Have fun!!!
RECALL??? Something new??? In 2011 Chrysler issued TSB/Warranty, offer to replace the defective roof tops ONLY for 2005's, delivered to ONLY 9 select States. 10 years from purchase or 100,000 miles. Windows have separated nationwide, but frankly they don't give a da--!
Again: NO "RECALL" (yet)! ONLY Service Bulletin/Warranty offer if the Roadster was delivered to: Alabama, Florida, Georgia, Louisiana, Missouri, North Carolina, South Carolina, Tennessee & Texas, by VIN #, and State border & '05 model year. Not even all States on the southeast coast, and only 2 States entirely inland! All (years) have failed nationwide. Ask NHTSA if the potential danger MUST be imminent in order to be considered a "safety related defect"? Window separation IS a serious defect.
There are (too) many threads on this with lots of info including the Letter Chrysler mailed to their select group. Search.
There are (too) many threads on this with lots of info including the Letter Chrysler mailed to their select group. Search.
The letter I got is below - for what ever it is worth.
I have a 2005 SRT6 here in the Phoenix area where we do have a little bit of heat. Back window fell out Sat. Called dealer and they siad there is no TSB on your vehicle and passed me on to someone else. He called back and asked me to bring it in so they can look at it but I pretty much have heard how this will go but I'll see. Some have had a bit of luck. I also tried to email to gualberto.ranier but it won't go thru and says the email address at Chrysler is not valid.
Can anyone report and success with these folks?
Can anyone report and success with these folks?
I had the same problem 2 years ago, with my 2006. Live in Florida and car is in car port with no AC.
Looked into the Warranty...If car was sold in Florida, you may have a chance. A member recommended a Loctite adhesive product, but I could not find it except by ordering it by the case.
So I tried a Loctite PL Pro line, 3X stronger, Premium Construction Adhesive that I got at Home Depot for $6. I undid the Roof front latch to loosen the top, and put lots of towels under the window to keep
the window glass tight against the top. Since the glass was still attached to the top at the very top, positioning was not an issue. I then ran a 1/4 inch bead all around between the window and top....I DID NOT TRY AND CLEAN THE ORIGINAL black ADHESIVE OFF...THOUGHT THAT IT MIGHT MAKE A BETTER GRIP TO THE new ADHESIVE. I put some 2x4 lumber pieces across the glued areas with brick weights on top to keep it tight. Gave it 24 hours and took everything off. used a box cutter to cut off any overflow adhesive and a black permanent marker pen to color the adhesive. (you might be able to get it in black). The top has not loosened from the window where it was for glued for 2 years...However the originally still attached part of the window at the top finally let go, so I glued that and it has been holding at speed and high temp for 6 months.
Looked into the Warranty...If car was sold in Florida, you may have a chance. A member recommended a Loctite adhesive product, but I could not find it except by ordering it by the case.
So I tried a Loctite PL Pro line, 3X stronger, Premium Construction Adhesive that I got at Home Depot for $6. I undid the Roof front latch to loosen the top, and put lots of towels under the window to keep
the window glass tight against the top. Since the glass was still attached to the top at the very top, positioning was not an issue. I then ran a 1/4 inch bead all around between the window and top....I DID NOT TRY AND CLEAN THE ORIGINAL black ADHESIVE OFF...THOUGHT THAT IT MIGHT MAKE A BETTER GRIP TO THE new ADHESIVE. I put some 2x4 lumber pieces across the glued areas with brick weights on top to keep it tight. Gave it 24 hours and took everything off. used a box cutter to cut off any overflow adhesive and a black permanent marker pen to color the adhesive. (you might be able to get it in black). The top has not loosened from the window where it was for glued for 2 years...However the originally still attached part of the window at the top finally let go, so I glued that and it has been holding at speed and high temp for 6 months.
I have a 2005 SRT6 here in the Phoenix area where we do have a little bit of heat. Back window fell out Sat. Called dealer and they siad there is no TSB on your vehicle and passed me on to someone else. He called back and asked me to bring it in so they can look at it but I pretty much have heard how this will go but I'll see. Some have had a bit of luck. I also tried to email to gualberto.ranier but it won't go thru and says the email address at Chrysler is not valid.
Can anyone report and success with these folks?
Can anyone report and success with these folks?
a Chrysler factory guy, that my local Chrysler dealer calls when he has a warranty issue. the guy said the same thing about the VIN number. I asked why it wasn't a safety issue....with a heavy glass top
possibly flying off at high speen and going through the following cars windshield!! No comment, probably have to wait for it to happen!
Just got done with dealer and supposedly "Customer Service". Dealer was all set to go and then couldn't get authorization based on Vin number. Gave me Customer Support phone number. Called them and was told about the VIN number. I told them that the TSB doesn't say a thing about VIN specific and why would it be VIN specific. She put me on hold and then came back with the only certain states stuff. I asked "Why certain states if they are all made in the same factory with the same materials and processes?" Another long wait on hold and then hung up on. I give her credit because she did call me back but then said that because of where it was built in the factory and when that it was different stuff and so wasn't covered. I asked for someone to explain why my car is being descriminated against vs others and that there is no mention of this discrimination in the TSB. I asked to get an explanation. She said a supervisor will call me back in 1-2 days.
I am an aerospace engineer with over 35 years experience so I do know something of these things. I will hound them to hell until I get an answer but in the meantime it looks like a top shop to see itf they can glue it back up for me. It's only going to be 109 tomorrow!
I am an aerospace engineer with over 35 years experience so I do know something of these things. I will hound them to hell until I get an answer but in the meantime it looks like a top shop to see itf they can glue it back up for me. It's only going to be 109 tomorrow!
I was told the recalls went by cars VIN number. And only if originally sold in Florida. I actually talked to
a Chrysler factory guy, that my local Chrysler dealer calls when he has a warranty issue. the guy said the same thing about the VIN number. I asked why it wasn't a safety issue....with a heavy glass top
possibly flying off at high speen and going through the following cars windshield!! No comment, probably have to wait for it to happen!
a Chrysler factory guy, that my local Chrysler dealer calls when he has a warranty issue. the guy said the same thing about the VIN number. I asked why it wasn't a safety issue....with a heavy glass top
possibly flying off at high speen and going through the following cars windshield!! No comment, probably have to wait for it to happen!
I was told the VIN number only verified where the car was sent to a dealer. The Florida cars qualified. I bought my car in Florida, however it had originally been sold up North...I think it may have been a Chrysler Exec car. The top and window connection used a pressure / heat system that was done by the Top manufacturer. Good local top guys cant afford the system, so they order a replacement top, even though the top and window are in good shape.
Read my comments further down, on how I fixed it for $6...It has been good for 2 years.
I had the same problem 2 years ago, with my 2006. Live in Florida and car is in car port with no AC.
Looked into the Warranty...If car was sold in Florida, you may have a chance. A member recommended a Loctite adhesive product, but I could not find it except by ordering it by the case.
So I tried a Loctite PL Pro line, 3X stronger, Premium Construction Adhesive that I got at Home Depot for $6. I undid the Roof front latch to loosen the top, and put lots of towels under the window to keep
the window glass tight against the top. Since the glass was still attached to the top at the very top, positioning was not an issue. I then ran a 1/4 inch bead all around between the window and top....I DID NOT TRY AND CLEAN THE ORIGINAL black ADHESIVE OFF...THOUGHT THAT IT MIGHT MAKE A BETTER GRIP TO THE new ADHESIVE. I put some 2x4 lumber pieces across the glued areas with brick weights on top to keep it tight. Gave it 24 hours and took everything off. used a box cutter to cut off any overflow adhesive and a black permanent marker pen to color the adhesive. (you might be able to get it in black). The top has not loosened from the window where it was for glued for 2 years...However the originally still attached part of the window at the top finally let go, so I glued that and it has been holding at speed and high temp for 6 months.
Looked into the Warranty...If car was sold in Florida, you may have a chance. A member recommended a Loctite adhesive product, but I could not find it except by ordering it by the case.
So I tried a Loctite PL Pro line, 3X stronger, Premium Construction Adhesive that I got at Home Depot for $6. I undid the Roof front latch to loosen the top, and put lots of towels under the window to keep
the window glass tight against the top. Since the glass was still attached to the top at the very top, positioning was not an issue. I then ran a 1/4 inch bead all around between the window and top....I DID NOT TRY AND CLEAN THE ORIGINAL black ADHESIVE OFF...THOUGHT THAT IT MIGHT MAKE A BETTER GRIP TO THE new ADHESIVE. I put some 2x4 lumber pieces across the glued areas with brick weights on top to keep it tight. Gave it 24 hours and took everything off. used a box cutter to cut off any overflow adhesive and a black permanent marker pen to color the adhesive. (you might be able to get it in black). The top has not loosened from the window where it was for glued for 2 years...However the originally still attached part of the window at the top finally let go, so I glued that and it has been holding at speed and high temp for 6 months.
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