Well i went to bleed the brakes and couldn't do it, took it to Tire Kingdom and they couldn't do it something about needing to pressure bleed them and needing to connect to the module in order to do it. had to take it to Chrysler, and they tell me that the module that I put in was no good. So bottom line is Tuesday Chrysler will be replacing my module and will program it and they say that there is an 80% chance that this will fix the problem. $1800 hopefully it will do so will post the results, these cars are a pain. it's my wife's car so I will try to get it fixed.

 

Why can't you bleed the brakes?

For the cost of $1,800 you get an 80% chance of a solution? Which means if it fails you are still out $1.800.
I doubt there is anything wrong with both modules.

 

I'm with 180 on this one, probably nothing wrong with the module.
"pressure bleeding" to me means the old fashioned way, someone pumping the pedal and someone twisting the bleeder valves.
Yes, I am aware that there are pressure bleeding rigs that pressurize the master cylinder reservoir, but this is not often used.
The most common methods these days are vacuum bleeding or the new speed-bleeder caliper valves.
I have used both these methods with equal results.

We will both get to say "I told you so" when you are out $1800 and still have no brakes.
The most likely scenario is that the stealer will present you with the $1800 bill, and the brakes will work fine, BUT they did NOT replace the ABS module.
My advise is to get an engraving tool and engrave your name on the present module before you take it to the dealer.

 

I agree, but have a witness (not family) for when you sue them. It will come to this because until then it is a he said-she said affair. Witness must not be family. Make sure it is a mark easily identified that is not easily deciphered by some mech jock. Remember, they will have a mechanics lein on your car for payment so you need to have all ducks in a row. If you get car back and see the same module, then it is easier (notice I did not say easy?).

 

Updating my situation with same symptoms, plugged in a known good abs module with no success. I went ahead and bough a brand new rcm and fixed my problem so far. I noticed one time after the car started out of the blue, that the rcm started rattling like relays clicking but not engaging and seconds later all the lights came on. Bought the new rcm on eBay for like 150$. I'll keep u updated

 

Btw I had already done the solder fix to my old rcm and didn't fix it

 

Well its been with the dealer, it will be 2 weeks on thursday, they replaced the abs module, and could not connect to it, they said one of their machines was not working, ordered a part for their machine, it finally came in and now they say that there is a short in the wiring that they should find by tomorrow, I'm not holding my breath on that one, they are telling me that they are going to keep the cost to minimum to me, we'll see. It is hard as i am on the other part of the state and have to do all this by phone or thru the wife. Hoping it is rectified by the time i get back there next tuesday. The dealer says that the crossfire is a bear to work on, i believe it, it has had it's problems and nothing has been cheap. will post with anything else i hear.

 

Well today I was told that it is the "management control module" They had to order the part from Mercedes, surprise, surprise, $786 plus tax. 95% that it will be ready for pickup tomorrow.

 

Chrysler needs a management control module. Do we even have something like this in our crossfires? If so, did daffy duck program it? Chrysler, if you read these posts, get one for your own management folks first. Maybe then you'll have some inner responsibility for the cars you sold.

 

Some call the PTCM the "engine management module" ,but I understand that they are around $1600.

And anyone who talks of "a short in the wiring" is a fool. The only SHORT that there could be, would be one caused by a rodent eating the insulation off wires - which DOES happen. If that is your problem, well, let's just hope not....

(Those who speak of "shorts" in wiring or electronics are demonstrating a total lack of expertise in electronics - to such people, any problem, particularly intermittent problems, are "shorts".)

 

What got your shorts in a knot?

I am afraid that shorts occur quite often, I take shorts as meaning a current flows through a circuit where it should not due to some mechanical or electrical part failure.
Anyone who has caused a fuse to blow has had a short.
Anyone who has had an electric shock has caused a short.
That's my short description of a short.

 

Dave, someone touching a hot circuit isn't shorting out a circuit, they are electrocuting themselves. So anyone who has had an electrical shock hasn't caused a short in a circuit because people are not circuits. Most people 'explain' electrical problems as 'this short' or 'that short', when in reality they have absolutely no idea what is wrong but hope they can either convince someone to part with a whole lot of money, or just get them out the door because no one wants to have anyone think they do not know something about the reason they brought their car to them. Most of the time when circuits do not function, it is because of an 'open'. This open usually involves a broken or loose connection. The hardest ones (opens) are buried in multiconnected connectors that may flex and 'loosen'. The absolute worst ones are those buried in areas that require a whole lot of disassembly to access. Where 'chaffing' occurs, a sharp conductive object repeatedly rubs along one or more wires and the inner conductor sometimes touches something grounded (or in the case where the sharp metal item isn't grounded, completes a circuit with another wire when that wire gets cut to its conductor). In the case where mice chew into the wires, the damage can be so expensive as to not be economically feasible to repair. This could be when a high current source (12v) gets 'shorted' to multiple sensor/computer data wires and it 'fries' many components before the current actually exceeds the circuits fuse rating. Anyway, if this was too long, I hope you didn't fall asleep. Does it help any though?

 

If you had just kept the explanation to 'shorts' the explanation would have been shorter.
If I stick my fingers on to a live wire I short the circuit.
If I drop a screwdriver onto an old live TV chassis I could short it out.
When something causes the power to go through another path I call it shorting the circuit.

 

Life is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you get until you open it.


Let an electrician check your shorts! Actual advertisement for an electrician many years ago!


Ignorance is bliss, but ignorance of the law is no excuse.


Some helpful information (do not focus just on the first sentence in the link) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Short_circuit . Even at my age, I learn new things all the time.








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Wish I didn't know now what I didn't know then.

 

I agree, I have heard way too many times opens referred to as "a short in the wiring". That just demonstrates to me a lack of basic understanding of automotive electrical. Or any general electrical diagnostics.


Jeff K

 

I think that says just about what I said a short is. QED

We are not discussing opens at all how did that subject rear its head?

 

To be totally 'open' about it, it is totally consistent in the discussion. Its the yin to the yang, the light to the dark. Simply, it is the totality of a concept. If you have shorts that are many times actually opens, then it confuses. To add clarity, this discussion of a short involved generalizations thrown out which perpetuates the ongoing ignorances encountered. Many opens are called shorts, many shorts aren't shorts. In your definition of a short you state that when you get electrocuted your 'shorting' out a circuit. We'll agree to disagree on your assertion that your 'shorting' out a circuit, when in actuality you are just electrocuting yourself. If a circuit your electrocuting yourself with has a safety device called a GFI, it is simply a safety device to limit the current passing through your body so it interrupts the source of electricity to keep you alive. Shorting a circuit almost always results in damage to the parts of that circuit, that is why fuses/circuit breakers (protective devices) are installed. When the current going through the wrong path (short) is not of (or not yet) sufficient to cause the circuit protection device to 'blow' or 'trip', then additional damage occurs. When it happens to very low voltage/current 'signal' circuits, it could take a whole lot of expensive components with it (especially) when it involves a buss connected to many co-located devices throughout the equipment/machine/vehicle (before that circuit protective device trips). As a footnote you CAN correct wiki articles, they allow that when posts are not accurate. I choose not to correct articles like that because quite frankly, I don't need (18, 180, 1800, 18000, 180000, ect...) replies along the same lines as yours about your assertion of your definition that you 'short' out a circuit. So, we'll agree (?) to disagree on your definition of a short. I'm OK with that.

 

Waaaaaaay back in the 60's I used to service an electronic accounting machine for NCR ( then National Cash Register ) called the 395. This machine had an option of a card reader to read IBM type punch cards.
The cost of acquisition back then was somewhere in the 20-30K range.
There was a switch adjustment that had to be made in the reader on a dual section switch, one section had 115 A/C, the other had 5V DC.
This adjustment had to be made with power on and the reader cycling.
If you were stupid enough to use a regular screwdriver for this adjustment, you COULD connect the 115 AC to the 5V DC.
NOW, THAT'S WHAT I CALL A SHORT.
Smoke would come from more places than you could count, and you were looking at at least a week of soldering in new transistors.
This was in the days before printed circuit boards.

 

Last word.