Seems to be a few threads here discussing this.

One day worked fine, the next day nothing. When i depress the top open switch, it blinks red and slow beeps, but there's no noise coming from the rear of the vehicle - i can't hear any relays switching, or any motor running at all - the only noise i hear is the beeping indicating there's an issue. When i manually unlatch the top, the drivers/passenger side windows automatically go down every time - so i don't think it's the switch in the frame above the passenger side window. I did locate said switch and have manually operated it w/o improved results. This issue did appear once earlier (albiet in the reverse scenario - top was down and it wouldn't close - letting the car sit in the garage for a few hours 'fixed it', and the issue went away for weeks. Now nothing i seem to do makes an improvement).

The divider switch in the trunk isn't the problem - i've spent a great deal of time either ensuring the divider rod is seated into the switch, or adjusting the switch - i'd zip tied in the closed position, and i ultimately ended up bypassing it all together by cutting the wires and tying them together. I know there are concerns that come with this, but net:net is that it didn't result in the roof retraction system operating. I also have released the rear bow using a 6mm hex wrench to no avail.

My hydraulic fluid was low - so i filled it up - no improvement resulted. The 25amp fuse that protects the system isn't blown. I haven't manually opened/closed it as i don't have the tool - but that might be a next step to see if that triggers anything to reset? I'm guessing here - but my real question is - what else should i be looking at to fix this?

Thanks!

 

Check the divider in the trunk to make sure the sensor switch is closed

 

I may be mistaken, but I seem to recall that the divider switch in the trunk is open (not shorted) to signal that the divider is in place. I hope someone will correct me if I'm wrong, or verify that I'm right.

 

You are wrong. The switch is CLOSED when the divider is in top down position.

 

Certain it’s not the divider switch as I’ve bypassed it all together 8)

 

Just a bump to see if there's any additional insight as to what i should be further investigating - thanks!

 

Your first step should be to go to ECS Tuning and order a top tool. They are not very expensive. You can not check anything out until you can put the top down and get into the trunk.

 

I’m remembering that my windows went down when I unlatched and pushed the top up. Then, if the switch above the passenger’s head wasn’t functioning, I got a blinking red light and nothing else happened. Once I got the switch above the passenger’s head working, everything else worked. You might want to be sure that switch really is working. If so, recheck the hydraulic fluid level. If it has dropped way down, then there’s a leak somewhere. Look for hydraulic fluid under/around the cylinders.

Also, get the tool! I manually put the top up and down for a year before I got the top operating. Just follow Pizzaguy’s methodology in his video. It’s also easier to get to the switch above the passenger’s head if the top is partially raised.

 

Ok, you have this one wrong. The latch switch in the windshield frame is what tells the TCM to tell the BCM to lower the windows.

The top open switch above the passenger's head is wired in series with the divider switch. When the divider is up and properly seated the divider switch is closed; and when the top is pushed away from the frame, and pressure is relaxed on the arm of that switch, it closes.

With the two in series, they apply a ground to the pin on the TCM, telling the system that the pump can be operated.

 

The act of releasing the rear bow is a mistake, you just robbed the TCM of it's knowledge of where in the cycle it is. You only do that manually if you are going to put the top down manually.

Second, if the fluid was low, you have a leak. PERIOD.

I'd start the engine and put the top up and down three times, completely, to resync things. If that does not do it, we can go from there. (If you don't start the engine, the TCM won't be watching what you are doing....)

Instructions on how to manually manipulate the top is here:

 

Wonderful - thanks guys. Ordering the manual tool now and will revert - i appreciate it!

 

just to verify - this one?
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ch/1295810066/

 

Yes, that is the correct tool, I have one of them.
( I was the person that originally discovered them a few years back )

 

Thanks chief. Ordering now.

 

Where in PA are you. I have both factory diagnostic scan tools the DRBIII and Starscan, and would be willing to scan your car for you if it's practical for you to get to me. The scanner sees all the convertible top switches and can run functional tests. I'm north of Philadelphia near Doylestown.

 

Did you figure this out?

 

Toolman - I'm near Lancaster PA - that's a very generous offer - thanks for making it! I've got the manual top release tool being delivered on Friday, then i need to go out of town for the weekend - so i won't be able to play with it until next week - but that feels like my next step, and then if it doesn't solve it - i might just take you up on your offer and drive out to see you. Thanks!

 

You can PM me if you want to follow through on this and we can work out the details. I'm not on the site as frequently as I used to but usually check in once or twice a week, so a response could take a few days.

 

Ok - got the release tool. I followed the procedure to release hydraulic pressure (just in case), used the tool to release the stowage compartment, popped the bow latch with the hex wrench - and wouldn't ya know i can't left the bow up more than about 4" or so, and if i can't lift the rear bow high enough, i can't open the stowage compartment. The top appears to be 'stuck' at the first pivot point back (first pivot point as i work back from the bow to the front of the car). Decided to close her back up, and now i can't get the bow latch to reseat. If i push on it as in the video - nada. If i use the hex wrench to twist either to the left or the right, nada. I'm planning on taking it to a buddy of mine on Saturday who's far better with cars than i am - for a 20 mile drive - is it ok to drive with the rear bow not latched? I assume it'll just be noisy, but not unsafe?

 

Update: So the reason the top was hard to move, i wagered, had to do with the hydraulics - so i tried again, and repeated the hydraulic pressure release protocol - and sure enough this time i was able to fully manipulate the top, and retracted it into the trunk. Upon trying to fully cycle it and put it back up - the same thing happened - i could only move it a few inches, so i repeated the hydraulic reset - and was able to fully extend it. I repeated this three times - each time needing to reset the hydraulics before retracting the top, and again before putting it back up. What does this tell you?