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Hi all. My dad has a roadster convertible. He has a problem with the roof going down, when we put it down manual it works fine when going back up/pump is fine. The divider switch it fine, we confirmed this with multimeter, the windows go down the lifting from the windscreen but from that point when we click the button it beeps slowly and flashes red slowly. The boot is closed but not locked ( when should this lock )?, I personally think it is to do with the switch above passenger side head in the hood, has anyone had this problem before? Thanks in advance!
so is it worth disconnecting it there or cutting it there? I can see that there is a connector and then going up from that is the switch
I have cut the switch off. Where to connection is at the bottom of the hood I have joined the two wires and plugged it back into the connector, still beeping ?!!
I have cut the switch off. Where to connection is at the bottom of the hood I have joined the two wires and plugged it back into the connector, still beeping ?!!
I am not sure, but I suspect you did not properly bypass the switch.
Here is how you bypass the sensor/switch, it matters not if it is the trunk divider switch or the top open switch.
1) Near the switch, find the two wires that connect to the switch.
2) Cut both wires.
3) Grab the wires coming from the harness and strip their two ends
4) Splice them together
5) Place a butt splice connector over them and crimp it to make the change permanent.
Now, test it. If it stilll acts up, the switch(s) are not the problem.
I am not sure, but I suspect you did not properly bypass the switch.
Here is how you bypass the sensor/switch, it matters not if it is the trunk divider switch or the top open switch.
1) Near the switch, find the two wires that connect to the switch.
2) Cut both wires.
3) Grab the wires coming from the harness and strip their two ends
4) Splice them together
5) Place a butt splice connector over them and crimp it to make the change permanent.
Now, test it. If it stilll acts up, the switch(s) are not the problem.
If you bypassed the "top open" switch as well as the divider switch, then I have questions.
1) With the top up and latched, if you turn the "D" handle, do the windows go down? (You said they do, it is very important to clarify this.)
2) With the top fully down and stored, if you hit the button, does the top go up? (You said, or implied, that it went up all the way and works fine in this regard, again, it is very important to clarify this.)
If both above are "yes", I'd want to pull the trim from the trunk and measure the voltage at the connector on the Top Control Module, for the wire that goes to those two switches. The way it works, the controller needs to see a 'low' on that pin to put the top down, but it ignores that pin putting the top up. THIS is why we suspect that pin is not being pulled low by the two switches.
You are looking for pin 7 of C1.
If that pin is 'low", and the top will go UP but not DOWN, we have more work to do..........................
If you bypassed the "top open" switch as well as the divider switch, then I have questions.
1) With the top up and latched, if you turn the "D" handle, do the windows go down? (You said they do, it is very important to clarify this.)
2) With the top fully down and stored, if you hit the button, does the top go up? (You said, or implied, that it went up all the way and works fine in this regard, again, it is very important to clarify this.)
If both above are "yes", I'd want to pull the trim from the trunk and measure the voltage at the connector on the Top Control Module, for the wire that goes to those two switches. The way it works, the controller needs to see a 'low' on that pin to put the top down, but it ignores that pin putting the top up. THIS is why we suspect that pin is not being pulled low by the two switches.
You are looking for pin 7 of C1.
If that pin is 'low", and the top will go UP but not DOWN, we have more work to do..........................
windows go down when unlatched. When manually put hood into boot the roof goes up fine but beeps at a certain point but still completes then beeps once done.
windows go down when unlatched. When manually put hood into boot the roof goes up fine but beeps at a certain point but still completes then beeps once done.
I hav
I have come across this? Does anyone know where this is for as maybe this could be the culprit ?
Does anyone know what the red connection on this picture is for ? TOP LEFT
If that is the trunk lid then it may be for the third brake light. A picture from farther back would help.
Frankly I cannot place it, my coupe is different.
Last edited by onehundred80; Feb 12, 2020 at 05:33 PM.
Reason: Second opinion added
If that is the trunk lid then it may be for the third brake light. A picture from farther back would help.
Frankly I cannot place it, my coupe is different.
cheers for the reply. We are just trying to figure out why the roof will not go down. We have connected the sensor above the passengers head together to by pass this but we are yet to try the continuity on the top control module as said previous to this message. Any other suggestions in the mean time ?
cheers for the reply. We are just trying to figure out why the roof will not go down. We have connected the sensor above the passengers head together to by pass this but we are yet to try the continuity on the top control module as said previous to this message. Any other suggestions in the mean time ?
Not having a roadster I am lost as to where the photo is taken, it looks like the trunk lid without the cover but ???
I know you are TRYING to show us the connector, but there are two problems:
1) You keep providing a photo that does not show us where the wires go (I know it seems like a trivial thing, but we need to know where the wires enter the harness AND just what items are "within reach" of that connector). Providing such limited photos is making this a waste of time.
2) You managed to take several photos of the connector, and in every one of them, we cant see an "end view" so that we can compare the connector to the list of connectors in the service manual.
I know you are TRYING to show us the connector, but there are two problems:
1) You keep providing a photo that does not show us where the wires go (I know it seems like a trivial thing, but we need to know where the wires enter the harness AND just what items are "within reach" of that connector). Providing such limited photos is making this a waste of time.
2) You managed to take several photos of the connector, and in every one of them, we cant see an "end view" so that we can compare the connector to the list of connectors in the service manual.
I gave up, I asked for a photo from farther away and ended up more confused. The OP knows where it is but not having a roadster I cannot get a handle on it.
Is that an air line for the lock in one post, is that the spoiler motor in one post? All those studs and nuts look like they are for the spoiler mounting plate.
The black hose is the drain for the cavity under the spoiler. And yes, I see the connector on the side of the motor, but I do not see the air line for the trunk lock in any pics -but this is certainly the area under the trim panel, underside of a Roadster trunk.
Problem is, if the top goes UP but not DOWN, the only sensors that are used ONLY for "down" are the top open and divider switches. He's already said he thinks they are bypassed, but unless you MEASURE That pin that I went to SO MUCH TROUBLE to describe, you do not know if the PTCM actuallys "sees" those switched closed. If it does not see it, then you get the symptom described.
You gotta MEASURE that pin with the engine running, if it is over about .6 volt, the top wont go down but it will go up.
I do not know what connector this is, in the photos, I don't have even a guess.