could you tell me how to use the multi meter on the module as I do not know

 

1) Start car, leave it running.
2) Insert leads into meter, turn it on and set to DC volts, 20 volt scale if not auto-ranging.
3) Hold black or common/ground lead of meter on a piece of chassis metal (there is a ground bolt on the wheel well wall in the vicinity of the top control module).
4) Press red lead into the connector, pin 10 (12 volt pin); meter should read around 12 volts. (This is to verify you have the meter set up rigth. DO NOT PROCEED until you get a 12 volt indication.)
5) Move meter lead to pin 7
... a reading of over 4.5 volts means the switches are not properly bypassed OR the wiring to switches is bad (as in "open", the opposite of a short).
... a reading of less than .5 volts means the switches are bypassed or closed and thing should work.

Any voltage over 4.5 volts (and perhaps as low as 1 volt) tells the PTCM to NOT run the pump.
Any voltage from about .5 to around 2 or 3 volts is a "Not valid", the pump may or may not run.
Any voltage under about .5 or .6 volts tells the PTCM it's OK to run the pump. You MUST have less than .5 volts on that pin.

 

I just had the cover off the bottom of my trunk lid today to modify the electric latch. I think the wiring hangin Down in that picture is from the electric latch.

 

[QUOTE=pizzaguy;936776]1) Start car, leave it running.
2) Insert leads into meter, turn it on and set to DC volts, 20 volt scale if not auto-ranging.
3) Hold black or common/ground lead of meter on a piece of chassis metal (there is a ground bolt on the wheel well wall in the vicinity of the top control module).
4) Press red lead into the connector, pin 10 (12 volt pin); meter should read around 12 volts. (This is to verify you have the meter set up rigth. DO NOT PROCEED until you get a 12 volt indication.)
5) Move meter lead to pin 7
... a reading of over 4.5 volts means the switches are not properly bypassed OR the wiring to switches is bad (as in "open", the opposite of a short).
... a reading of less than .5 volts means the switches are bypassed or closed and thing should work.

Any voltage over 4.5 volts (and perhaps as low as 1 volt) tells the PTCM to NOT run the pump.
Any voltage from about .5 to around 2 or 3 volts is a "Not valid", the pump may or may not run.
Any voltage under about .5 or .6 volts tells the PTCM it's OK to run the pump. You MUST have less than .5 volts on that pin.[/QUOTE

hi. I have tried to test it but it is not giving any reading what so ever ?

 

Pizza guy, do you do this test without pushing the up / down button?

 

Yes. I am describing voltage at that pin with the divider in place (or that switch bypassed) and the top pushed up away from the frame (or that switch bypassed).

 

[QUOTE=Charlie246810;936850]In what step? If you mean you cant get a reading in step 4, you are not setting the meter up properly.
Again:
Step 4, no indication: You don't have the meter set up properly.
Step 5, if you got around 12 volts in step 4, and near zero in step 5, then the switches are both closed and are not the problem.

 

[QUOTE=pizzaguy;936876]it is at step 4. I disconnected the top control module to access the pin. Got no voltage at DC 20V. Not sure what I am doing wrong

 

[QUOTE=Charlie246810;936877]Fine, take the meter and measure the voltage across the battery. It HAS to be around 13 volts. If you see a good reading, you have the meter set up right, and your problem in the trunk is probablly that you are not connecting the black lead to a valid ground.

If you do not get around 13 volts at the battery, you have the meter leads in the wrong jack, or bad leads, or a bad meter.

 

[QUOTE=pizzaguy;936885]I have passed that onto my dad to do. I will let you know the outcome. The pump now seems to kick in but then faults at the unlatch of the hood from the lock inside. It doesn’t seem to want to click open and this is then what causes the beeping

 

The pump now starts or it doesn't. Which is it? Please stop this "seems to" stuff, you are making this way harder than it is.

If the pump is starting, then the two switches we are talking about are bypassed or closed just fine, and there is less than .5 volt on the pin of the control module, PERIOD. The pump either runs or it doesn't and if it runs, then these two switches are not the issue here.

If the pump starts and the cycle does not complete (which is what you now are describing) then, you either have low fluid or a bad sensor on one of the cylinders in question. What is the level in the 'tank' on the pump assembly? (It is possible that the fluid level and sensors are fine, and your control module is insane, but that is NOT at all very likely.)

 

fluid is fine. Pump starts and then stops and starts to beep in the car/flash

 

You have a sensor somewhere telling lies to the PTCM.

Has anyone done any work on the car (repaint the wing, reglue the back window, fix or replace one of the cylinders on the top system)?

Gotta say it, I still question the fluid level.

 

And when did things change. Your first said (or implied) that the top goes UP fine, but would not go down, it just beeped.
Now you say that, going down, it starts to move then stops.

WHen did this change? Was it after you bypassed the two sensors?

 

my dad bought the car recently and the roof did not work but has in the past, we do not know of the work that has been done previous.The fluid in the sump for the hood was low so we filled it up. We then by passed the switch above the passengers head. we have had the divider switch checked by a friend with a continuity meter, that is fine so we have taped it closed to make sure it is on. The pump did kick in at this point in the beginning even when the switches were on the car (not by-passed) but then did not for a spell. Now we are back to square one where the windows go down when the roof is unlatched, we then hold the button for the roof to go down and you hear the pump kick in, after 1 second it then beeps slowly and flashes red and the pump then stops. Have you got a picture of the actual lock on your car of where the roof latches/unlatches as when looking at the one on our car the sensor/switch seems to be constantly pressed down. For me it seems the roof will not unlatch from the lock and therefore causes the alarm

 

So you bought the car with a non-working top. That is good to know: Now we know that we know very little - sorry, but this makes things very hard to fix. We don't know what someone may have tried (only to make things either worse, or. at least more complicated). If the pump starts at all, the top open and divider sensors are fine.

THis is not something I, personally, can fix via long distance.

It has to be a sensor somewhere lying to the controller about status of a cylinder, or low fluid. If it was the top open sensor, the divider sensor, the trunk latch sensor or the trunk lock sensor, the pump would simply NOT RUN AT ALL. Now, some have had sensors that were disturbed when a cylinder was replaced (or more simply, a sensor put back on wrong or the wiring reinstalled to the sensors on a cylinder when it was rebuilt) and that caused similar symptoms. But if you do not know what was done, you don't know where to go.

Sitting and reading thru the information on how the top cycles can be helpful, that is in the service manual. The 2008 manual is more descriptive than the 2005 version, I do know that.
It is attached below. That is the most helpful I can be at this point.

 

Hi. We have found the problem it was the sensor above the drivers head!! We clearly didn’t splice them together correctly. We have now joined them and by passed the switch and it is finally ok. Thank you all for all your help!. We now have a problem with the torrneau cover flap cable snapped. Also has anyone glued the glass before and if so what product did they use

 

Glad to hear your top is finally "working".

The part number for the tonneau flap extensions is 05140962AA. I did a quick search and it looks like the site I found them at are now discontinued, you may have better luck locally in Austrailla. Both sides are the same. you might try and find a company locally who can make them for you. Before you start to remove anything be sure and take pictures as you proceed. you will have to remove the flap from the tonneau cover 3 screws to remove the cable, then cut the zip ties along the tonneau cover arms and finally disconnect it from the hydraulic cylinder. since one side is still good you could take this one to a company who repairs/replaces soft tops to see if they could make you two. before installing the new ones you also need to get a can of cable lube and cable lube tool to allow you to thoroughly lubricate the cable before you install it. I did this a couple of years ago, not difficult.

Good luck!
PJ

 

cheers mate!