1. Hey guys, this is the issue
   * spoiler goes up upon moving forward 25 mph
   *cruise control stops working
   *spoiler light blinks.
   * traction control stops working
   These four things happen simultaneously upon the spoiler raising. From the point of stop to 25 mph All of these systems work until the spoiler is deployed then they all stop working at the same time.
   
   the BAS ABS lights Came on a few days prior to the system is failing and these lights stay on continuously.
   
   I’ve read so many different answers could somebody just kind of give me the most likely and I have a brand new battery in it so it has nothing to do with the battery $169 later.
   

 

Rains05Crossfire, I'm just north of you in Abbeville.
First thing comes to mind is the RCM traction control relay. After years of use the contacts get dirty and or burned and do not work properly.
Second thing that comes to mind is the brake light switch.
You can inspect the RCM contacts by pulling it out and looking closely at the relay contact points. There is a forum member in AZ which will refurbish the RCM for a very reasonable price and he will turn it around quickly.
If you can scan the car and get beyond the OBD II codes into the manufacture specific codes it should indicate if the brake light switch is bad.
I have a scanner here at the house if you want to drive up here and let me take a look; send me a message/email.
I own both a LImited and an SRT6

 

Rains. I'm the RCM guy in Arizona that Zip mentioned.
Does sound like the traction control relay in the relay control module except for the 25mph thingy. Could be that the relay coil is going bad and opens once the coil heats up. I refurbish RCMs by replacing the relays and doing a few other things. If interested, email me at tighed1@hotmail.com for the details.

 

I would love to drive over to abbeville. I have already replace the stop brake switch and they had no effect and I will send off the RCM next week if possible. My number is 334-790-1653 give me a call not live to run over to Abbeville and visit whenever is best for you zip

 

Ok everyone, with the help of Steven Z. From Alabama, who’s awesome and the most knowledgeable person about Crossfire’s, he determined with his scanner that the ABS left rear wheel speed sensor was the most likely culprit to my problem. And, he was correct. Once I installed the new sensor all the warning lights went off. I now have cruise control, traction control, and can play with my wing while driving.




I’m ok

 

Thank you for sharing the solution.

 

Great to hear! That is what makes this a great forum! The people on it.
If you are interested in a new antenna and new antenna ring I ordered mine off of Amazon it fit great and works great $17.
The Antenna gasket I found on the forum and ordered from Amazon it shipped from GB. It was like 6 dollars after conversion from sterling.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post932238
I replace mine and my friends supper easy to do.

 

I have the same problem right now. It's going to the shop as I sense it is one or more of the ABS Wheel Speed Sensors out of whack and a generic code reader won't read the ABS BSA/ESP codes as my friend tried. Worst case it is the ABS control module which I understand has been replaced twice in my current car by the records to fix this recurring problem. My problems: 1) ABS light and BSA/ESP lights on all the time 2) cruise control not working 3) Rear spoiler comes up as soon as the car starts moving (not 57 MPH or whatever) and stays up with the light on the manual raise/lower switch flashing regardless of slowing down to a stop or shutting the car off 4) Traction Control out which is tied to the BSA/ESP system that shuts down when an ABS fault is detected. Note: If your spoiler is stuck up you can put it down manually by shutting the car off, then turning the key all the way to the "run" position when all dash lights light up (but without starting it) then push the manual spoiler lowering button on the dash until it is fully lowered and beeps once. Then you can turn the key to off, open the hood, open the fuse box on the driver's side and pull the fuse to the spoiler to cut power to it and keep it down permanently until the source of the problem is fixed. All of these problems can generally be traced to a problem in the primary ABS system from what I have read (but I could be wrong!).

 

"It is going to the shop" You should take the car to an independent garage that deals only with European automobiles, a general automotive repair shop may not get you where you need to go and they will not have the experience with Mercedes systems. Your car will scan as a 2003 Mercedes SLK 320.

If you have anyone near you with a Crossfire I suggest you first take the RCM from the other car, place it in your car and go for a test drive. Your problems may all be related to a faulty coil on the RCM. Another possibility is the brake light switch. If you get a good scan into the Mercedes codes they will point you in the correct direction. After the car is scanned; CLEAR ALL THE CODES; go for a test drive and then scan again for any codes that are reset;. Those will be your problem.

 

RCM is coming out this weekend to take a look at the coils/points and those 3 known solder points that can be faulty. We are also going to do a throttle reset, then 5 minutes later attempt a reset of the Steering Angle Sensor going lock to lock and back to center, re-scan and delete all codes. Then drive a bit and see what we end up with. Best thing I heard recently about Mercedes engineering and the dashboards that light up up like a Christmas Tree is, "I think they leave the factory that way". LOL!

 

Throttle reset?

 

Yes... From what I read...

"Throttle Reset
From the original post by danimal on 08-15-2006
1. Get in your car, it doesn't matter if you close the door or not. 2. Turn the key to the on (not start) position. 3. Press the gas pedal to the floor with the key in the "on" position. 4. Hold the pedal to the floor for five seconds, then turn the key back to the "off" position (don't remove the key), then release the gas pedal. 5. Wait 2 minutes for a full alignment. 6. Drive the car as you always do.
In short;
Key on, pedal down for 5 sec, key off, pedal up, wait 2 minutes. Keep the key in for the entire thing."

Since 16 years of age I've been working on cars trying to keep them running but they were either old VW's from the 70's-early 80's or later model Fords and Chevy's. This German/American Chrysler/Mercedes hybrid is a friggin' mess. I know why people love this car and it is so rare, it takes endless wrenching and diagnosing and fixing crap to keep them on the road!

 

You got a car that has not been locked after and abused, it is not like most of the cars here.A throttle reset solves none of your woes, it does one thing only, look that up.

 

Send it to TJ, easiest, fastest, least expensive first step.

 

Just picked mine up from the shop... Was also a rear wheel speed sensor (left rear as well) that went bad and caused all the same problems. Everything working again. Spent more than I wanted but the code reader I have access to can't read the ABS codes so I would have been throwing money around at parts blindly.