I bought a 06 roadster the people I bought it from said the trunk light had been draining the battery because someone pulled the trunk release cord and broke it or something.

That was in the winter and so I didn't want to test the top. Also was going to buy it anyway so whatever.

Now the top won't open or close when opened manually. I think it's something to do with the trunk open sensor.

Any ideas?

 

Are you saying you cannot open the top manually, or with the button or both?

 

I can open and close it manually, but not with the button. I get the slow beeping and blinking.

 

Do the windows go down when you unlatch it from the windshield?

 

Is the trunk divider up and seated in the latches? one of the sensors is in the driver side latch.

 

It is locked in place, is there a way to test that particular switch?

 

There's a lot on here about the rag top you got dig in and read. Proly a switch one of many. Trunk latch, divider switch, who knows?
​The magic is here but you'll have to look for it. You'll figure it out.




​​​​​

 

If the trunk is indicating it's open, then top operation will be inhibited. Now, the trunk light operation is another story - in 05, the trunk and interior dome lights are wired together, so if the trunk light was on, the interior lights would be on as well. But in 06 or 07, things changed and the trunk light was activated separately.

If the top wont' go UP or DOWN, the cause is usually related to the CLP/SSM.

I can tell you this: The divider sensor and top open switch (over the passenger's head) DO NOT play a role in the top going UP just going DOWN. So, if the top won't go up or down, the divider switch is NOT the issue. I think you may be onto something about the trunk sensor. "Shamrock" on this forum encountered a bad trunk latch switch some time ago and replaced the entire assembly from a junk car and fixed his top.

But again, a water damaged CLP/SSM will also cause the top to not work. Usually, the locks in the car will be acting weird or not working at all, in such cases.

 

Is there a way i can test them, or is it just replace them all one by one?

 

pizzaguy is the top expert.

 

It did have door locking and unlocking issues as well, i just thought it was a bad keyfob.

Thanks so much for your help!

 

I am trying to get the trunk lights to work on my 05 Convertible. It caught my eye the locks will act strange. My locks will lock after a few minutes on their own but I thought it may be a battery problem. I fixed the stalling issue but last time it stalled the radio came on. The truck fuses are fine but both bulbs were toast. Any ideas if this may be related to something else?
Thanks

 

WHat do you mean the locks lock after a few minutes? If you hit unlock and don't open the door, the locks will re-lock as designed. Is this what you refer to?
All O5s operated trunk and dome lights together, if the dome works, then you simply have a bulb issue, it's that simple. Opening either the trunk or a door will light the trunk AND dome lights.

In later years, the trunk lights operated separately, but not in 05. (One of the little details about these cars that confuse a lot of people - they made some minor changes like this thru out the production run.)

 

Excuse me while I go back to sleep. I feel so dumb! The lights in question were my license plates lights (which now work). Crossfire,,, no engine bay light, no trunk light. Who would have thunk it..... I did get on NeedsWings website and discovered I could get a key. Now if I could get a driver side speaker ring I would be in 7th heaven. I have received a couple off a couple of guys on this website but I believe there is a difference between the passenger side and the driver's side. Lastly... what is the CLP/SSM and since my panic button does not work should I order a siren from NeedsWings?
Everyday is a new learning experience from a really fun car...

 

When I park my car in the garage, the locks will activate themselves after a few minutes. Also I will get strange noises occasionally or the lights will flash by themselves every now and then. It drives great since I replaced the throttle and cleaned the air sensor and throttle body. I have pulled your techniques to find excessive standby current and that's my next project. My battery goes dead after a couple of weeks. I replaced the alternator last winter and I have a gauge that indicates 14.3 volts when the vehicle is running. Please bear with me... I'm learning as I go.

 

NO engine bay light, but all Roadsters have a trunk light. (Not sure on coupes, never had one).

CLP/SSM is the central locking pump/security system module in the trunk / right wheel area that contains the pump to operate the locks but it also has a CAN BUS communication module and other electronics that enable it to talk to the SKREEM, Top Module and Body Control Module.

A bad PANIC button is often a bad key fob itself. If the siren does not go off and the lights don't flash, it's not the siren, it's either the fob or an issue with the SKREEM. If you get lights flashing but no siren, they it could be a bad siren.

 

If those noises are from the trunk area and they occur when the lights flash, I'd suspect you have water damage to the CLP/SSM. It's common in cars that are out in the rain a lot.
You can pull the trim from the trunk and look the module over. Yank the cable connectors from it and look for corrosion on the pins of the connectors.

 

It sounds like an expensive piece if it's bad. Are they still available if I need one?

 

From parts cars, yes.