The only way the fluid would be low is if it leaked out.

 

I took my good old time and it took maybe 4 hours to remove the seven cylinders. Mark the sensors as you remove them (say "top" and "bottom" ) with blue tape or the like. All and all it is not a hard task and when it works it will make you smile. I ended up sending the pump in and should have it back by this Friday.

 

Thanks - that's a bit better than I had guessed! About the same to install the rebuilt ones?

 

A lot less for the install as you have "broken the ice".
AGAIN .. mark those sensors they may fool you later!

 

Thank you for all the great tips on the forum over the years!! Much appreciated! And glad the Original Poster got it to work!

 

Dont let Klaus scare you into replacing the entire system

 

I wouldn’t include the pump if it is working fine and I wouldn’t do the cylinders piece meal. The seals are all the same age.

 

I am not sure if I agree with the cylinder assessment. Seems like the two main cylinders are the ones most people find leaking. Perhaps because they carry the heaviest load. I want to say in all these years and on countess facebook forums it seems to be those two primarily and the other ones are rarely seen leaking. I'd just repair what's broken and in the off-chance once of the other ones starts leaking, get those done then but to each it's own.

I have talked to every owner I know who had the main lifts repaired and not one has had issues with one of the others. Not saying they are bullet proof but why spend the money when it might not be necessary.

 

Good points.

 

I'm wondering if Klaus said that, he's usually really reasonable. BUT if you want him to GUARANTEE the outcome, I can see him telling you to rebuild it all - how can he warranty something he's not seen?

I keep asking myself what makes cylinders leak. My SE has only 70,000 miles on it. The Graphite had 116,000. I've not had a leak yet. I do exercise my top every three weeks, year around. Maybe that's it.
But they also say to never operate the top at low temperatures (I think they said 32 or 38F degrees) and I obey that rule as well.

I don't WANT a leak, just wondering why I've not had one so far. I've sure had a lot of other common issues, both with the top and with the car in general.

 

I have 2 roadsters, the limited has spent its life in southern AZ and the SRT has spent the last five years here. It spent the rest of its life in WA and northern AZ. The limited cylinders started leaking a couple years ago and I had Klaus rebuild them but the SRT doesn’t seem to leak at all. Perhaps extreme heat has an effect.

 

I have also wondered what makes the cylinders leak. I purchased a SRT6 Roadster two years ago with 25K miles in factory shape from a gentleman who only drove it in the summer and rarely at that. He moved from Colorado to Florida. I now have 40K miles on it and the two main lift cylinders started leaking just now. The car has only been in Florida for the last two and a half years.

Now, one could say maybe he didn't cycle the top enough during the winter months in Colorado? But I actually asked a hydraulic cabriolet shop in Sarasota the same question recently. They are strong believers that hydraulic fluids should be replaced every 10-15 years. They believe that sediments and pollutants will settle in the fluid causing the o-rings in the cylinders to break. I don't know if that is the only reason but it sure sounds plausible. Obviously anytime you deal with o-rings the Florida heat probably isn't kind to them either. Something to think about and one reason I have asked on here if the fluid should be replaced....I think that might be my weekend project.

 

Thanks nickwe21, I know what I'm going to be doing this winter!

 

I can tell you this: I changed out all my hydraulics and then found my pump was leaking. I hoped it was my fill plug but after an exhaustive investigation, it was the pump. I replaced it and found in the old pump black stuff on the bottom of the reservoir. For this reason; I agree that the fluid should be changed.

 

Dear Forum members,

I have recently observed that my hydraulic system is leaking as oil level in tank is reduced. First I thought that the problem was in hydraulic lines - I have replaced o-rings located here:


No luck - the piston still was leaking. After I do realize that I have leakage from this location:



Now I need to replace the o-ring on the bottom cap of the cylinder. Can you please help me to understand how to disassemble the bottom cap from piston housing - simply apply the pulling strength or there is some secret?

P.S.: leakage observed only in main drive cylinder 05142639AA (left side):

 

If it were me I would pull both lift cylinders out and send them to Tops Hydraulics.
There is a video on you tube somewhere on how to disassemble the cylinders. I don't remember if it was a Crossfire or a Mercedes in the video.

 

I believe he is in Azerbaijan.

 

You are trying to do something that MOST of us have NEVER tried to do. My compliments to you, but I sure cant help.
I am not brave or skilled enough to attempt such a repair.

 

What have I done so far:

1. drill and tap hole to try to pull the back plug out:




unfortunately no success - plug seems to be stuck there
2. I have cut out the trim as follow:


now the plug has very small rotation (about 1-2degc) but I unable to pull it out. I am afraid to apply to much tension cause the housing seems to be made from more soft aluminium comparing to plug itself. Is "stack" due to rubber plug?

 

I believe you have ruined it.