I talked with the guy at Renntech yesterday and he said that he has done over 1,000 of these programs and has never had a problem. He suggested to disconnect my battery for 20 minutes, reconnect it then get in the car turn the key to the on position for a minute to let all the electronics to communicate with each other, then start the car. So that's what I did when I got home from work last night, but that didn't help the car is still not hitting on all six cylinders. I have the regular Crossfire service manual on the hard drive of my computer at work and noticed that the accelerator position sensor has some relationship with the crankshaft position sensor, so I'm wondering if the Sprint Booster is causing the problem. Since I had broken a large screw driver off up in the flywheel I wanted to make sure that a small piece of it was not stuck in the ring that the crankshaft sensor reads from, so I pulled the belly pan back off, took the flywheel inspection cover off and turned the crank around several times and did not find anything. Then I wondered if somehow a small piece of the screwdriver could have somehow got up to the crankshaft sensor and damaged it. So I took off the drivers side air box to get to the sensor, pulled out the sensor and it look ok too, while the sensor was out to make double sure that the ring on the flywheel that the crank sensor reads from was not bent or something stuck in it that a I may not have seen from the bottom side I turned the crank around about three times and everything checked out just fine. BTW, the crankshaft sensor is a real ***** to get to and remove. So from everything I looked through and checked, I've come to the conclusion it's either the sprint booster or a bad tune on the ECU. Does anyone that has a pulley & ECU kit on their car have a Sprint Booster too?

 

I do...with no problems.
I don't think the SB is causing you the problem, especially if it was working fine in the car prior to the Renntech kit.

When I first installed my kit and started it for the first time, my check engine light came on too, but it was because I forgot to plug the electric fan back in.
I plugged it in, reset the ECU and all was fine.
I never had a rough idle though.

I'm sorry to hear that your having problems...the kit is so simple to install that it would be hard to think of anything else that would be causing your problem.
Besides ECU issues, the only other things I can think of that would cause rough idle problems would be things like... unplugged sensors or unplugged spark plug wires, timing belt (if its even a belt?) slipped some how...but you didn't even use a impact gun to remove the pulley bolt...
Or maybe the accessory belt is put back on wrong? That probably would cause a rough idle though...
It also sounds like you ruled out the broken off screw driver issue.
Other then those ideas, I'm sorry, I'm probably not much help.

If you don't figure it out soon, I hope Renntech will help you figure it out, because that just sucks not having things go right!

Please keep us updated, because now Im wondering what it could be...

 

So how many pulleys need to be changed with this kit. How hard is it? I know harmonic balancers on old v-8's can be a pain.

 

It should be three pulleys and I still stand strongly that it has to do with poor ecu mapping send it back to them and make them take a look at it. Again I say that if all was installed correctly the only thing left is the ECU. The SB I think can be somewhat harmful to the engine, but should not conflict with your upgrades at all.

 

I'm not the one having the problem. I'm asking how hard it is to install the 3 pulleys. I would like to buy this kit for my car, but only if I can do it myself.

 

The job is not that tough, the hardest part is breaking the crank bolt loose and getting it retorqued to spec's. The two outside connectors on the ECU are quite tight, but other than the two things I've mentioned it's a fairly easy job.

 

Thanks. What does that crank bolt torque to? 160 or so? So the ps pulley and the sc pulley is easy?

 

I let the car sit with the battery unhooked all night Friday night. Saturday I put the crank sensor back in and put everything back together that I had to pull off to get to the sensor and removed the SB. I hooked the battery back up, got in the car, turned the key to the on position, let it sit for a minute or so. Then I started it, the check engine light was still on, but I seamed to have gotten at least one cylinder back, but it still is not hitting on all six. The tech at Renntech had said it needed to be scanned with a scanning tool to get the code, but of course I don't have one and the car is not drivable, the tech also told me he didn't think it was the ECU tune, but I"m not convinced it's not. I called a friend that's a salesman at the local dealership and asked him to basically speak off record, he's a gearhead from way back and has good understanding of newer cars. After telling him of the problem I'm having, he suggested not to take it to a dealership and that it did need scanned to get the codes, but the car is not drivable. He thinks that since I had turned the crank over several times with a wrench while the battery was hooked up, that could possibly have caused the problem. Renntech's directions stated to disconnect the battery, but just stated so no accidental starting of the engine. If what my friend said is right, Renntech needs to have something in their instructions that say's "do not turn the crank while the battery is connected". I guess I'll be calling Renntech in the morning to see what they want to do to solve this problem. I also pulled the ECU back out and went through all of the wires on every connector to make sure all of them were clipped in the connectors good, thats alot of wires and took about a half an hour.

 

The instructions say's 200 Nm + 90 degrees witch if you convert that to foot pounds it's about 150 Fp and then turn the bolt another quarter turn. The pulleys you change are the water pump, crank and an idler pulley.

 

Thanks for your personal concern sg3054. It's Sunday afternoon and I just put the ECU back in the car for the third time and reconnecting the battery for the third time. And I can't believe it, it fired right up ran even smoother than stock with no check engine light. I don't understand, the first startup Friday I think I was running on four cylinders, after disconnecting the battery letting it set over night, the next day reconnect the battery and reset the car again it seemed to be running on five cylinders. Then Saturday disconnecting the battery again over night and pulling the ECU again. Sunday I put the ECU back in and reconnected the battery, jumped in the car, turned the key to the on position for about a minute, hit the key and it fired up and runs smoother than stock. I'm totally confused, I'm no dummy, I grew up working on old cars because that's all I could afford, I've worked most of my life in factories as a maintenance tech / electrician, I'm a licensed electrician and I have a degree of associate in electronics, maybe each time I disconnected the battery and pulled ECU and reset it, it cleared a fault.

 

That's good to hear you got it running right...maybe it just needed to be re-set or done in a certain order as far as hooking it up and then connecting the battery...who knows.
So, did you take it for a drive yet?

 

I went ahead and put the SB back in, went in the house and had a couple Margarita's and thought I should take it for a test drive. It was only about 15 degrees here yesterday and had been snowing a little, but I couldn't resist. I took it for a little spin to town, (about 6 miles) and made a few lap's around town. The roads were cold of course, but if you nailed it a little anything under 35 mph it would break loose and yes you can definitely tell a difference in the butt dyno. But I do have one problem, but I blame it on my wife, she came into my garage Saturday and was b*tching about the fumes because I had started the car for a minute. I was mad anyway and not in the mood to put up with her crap, but she insisted I opened one of the doors to air it out so I standing in front of the car with the door opener beside me, I hit the button to raise the door not even thinking about the car up on blocks with the hood open. I looked up just in time to see the linkage of the door opener hit the winged emblem on the hood, it put a couple small places in it, she said not to blame her and I said BS, if you wouldn't have came out here b*tching and whining it never would have happened. We didn't speak much to each other the rest of the weekend.

 

Now if Renntech can help you with that problem even I would buy their kit. Glad everything worked out for you.

 

They have been very supportive with what was going on with my car, I nor they really figured out what was causing the problem, I called them this morning and talked with the tech to give him the whole story of what I went through this weekend, he's still convinced it was a plug on the ECU. I also spoke with the salesman that I made the buy from and told him that I had left one of their emblems laying on the car and forgot it was there, took the car for a test drive and lost it. So he said he would send me a new set.

 

Those sound easy, if they are like the old cars. I'll need to buy a torque wrench.