I did this today and It works. Just passing it along. Peace.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170...placement.html

Here is the info:

So, 1FASTC32 came up with the idea that the C32 intercooler pump (which routinely fails at 40-50k miles, or just after your warranty expires, to the tune of $600 in parts) is the same as the Ford Lightning pump which is currently available on eBay for $100 or so. I received mine today, and installed it this evening. Here is the skinny:

Pump is $89.00 shipped from Diversified Products (734) 459-0130.

Pump is the same Bosch unit used on the C32, with the following two exceptions: The wiring plug is different, and the water outlet and inlet tubes are slightly smaller on the replacement pump. Both of these issues are easily resolved, as described in the following installation steps:

1. Jack up front passenger side wheel, and remove.
2. Remove the roughly 1' x 1' plastic piece that is towards the front of the car in the passenger-side front wheel-well. This entails removing three 10mm bolts in the wheel well, one plastic plug in the wheel well, and two or three plastic plugs under the passenger side of the front bumper. Remove the plastic piece completely (do not try to just bend it to access the I/C pump).
3. You will now be able to see the P.O.S. intercooler pump. It is mounted to the car with a couple of nuts on studs below, and a small bolt in the same region. It has an inlet and an outlet hose, with those stupid spring-loaded hose clamps that are impossible to remove. Try pliers and a flat screwdriver.
4. Once you remove the hoses and the mounting bolts (and the 12v plug), you will now be able to remove the pump and mounting bracket.
5. Remove the metal mounting bracket and rubber sleeve from the old pump (you may need to pry between the sleeve and the pump to loosen the rubber sleeve from the metal) and save them.
6. Now you need to swap the plastic housing piece with the inlet and outlet tubes from the old pump to the new pump, as the new pump has tubes which are slightly smaller (the idea is to move the old inlet/outlet tube piece to the new pump). Unscrew the six star screws holding the outlet and inlet tube housing on the old pump. Remove the plastic piece with the inlet/outlet tubes. Now remove the similar piece from the new pump (gold Phillips screws). Take care, as those gold Phillips screws strip very easily. Now, carefully place the inlet/outlet tube piece from the old pump onto the new pump, taking care to assure that the orange o-ring is properly positioned. Secure the old inlet/outlet housing with the gold Phillips screws.
6. Using two appropriately-sized hose clamps (I tossed those spring-loaded things, and used traditional "screw-adjust" clamps), re-connect the plumbing to the new pump. Tighten the clamps.
7. Use the old mounting hardware (rubber sleeve and metal bracket) and mount the pump just like the old one.
8. Now for the electrical. You will note that the C32 electrical plug to the old pump is completely non-usable with the new pump. The new pump has small spades protruding, where the C32 plug is for very small posts. I cut the plug off of the existing C32 wiring coming to the pump, stripped a 1/4" piece of wire, and used two small female spade connectors, which slid right over the male spades coming out of the pump. I then slathered on some West Marine Liquid Electrical Tape to waterproof the whole thing. Not the prettiest solution, but it works.
9. Refill your liquid source for the pump, and voila. Check (before replacing plastic cover and wheel) by starting car, letting it run for a minute or so, and then turning off. Go over to the right front wheel. You should hear the pump running for 5-20 seconds after turning the car off. Check for leaks.

Hope this helps those of you who (like me) are out of warranty and do not want to pad the pockets of the Stealership.

 

I will probably go this route if and when mines goes. Unless it goes while covered.

 

I have a warranty till 2013 or 70,000 miles what ever comes first. Hope it fails before then >>>

 

Refill your liquid source for the pump, and voila. Check (before replacing plastic cover and wheel) by starting car, letting it run for a minute or so, and then turning off. Go over to the right front wheel. You should hear the pump running for 5-20 seconds after turning the car off. Check for leaks.

This is part of the how-to from a C32 guy installing an IC pump. My question pertains to the part where he says to listen to the pump to see if it is running. I never hear my pump running when I shut off the engine. I secure it, then run over to the pump location, but hear nothing. I'm wondering about this, because I'm questioning whether or not some slight accleration issues is due to a faulty IC pump or one that is about to go out completely. Anyone ever hear their pump running at shut off. NOTE: this is not the hair dryer noise you hear at start up. You have to put your ear next to the pump to hear it.

 

great write-up! i have now moved over to the Johnson CM30 pump because even the Lightning pump failed after 10,000miles...it is still a cheap fix, but the Johnson flows 3x the fluid and will not fail like the Bosch unit will...here is a link to the pump on our website...

http://www.letmotorsports.com/chy.as...6&category=all

 

I would pay for a wiring set up that would allow me to plug your IC pump into the stock wires......

 

we are going to have some connectors custom made, but it will be a couple of months before they are done...we are having to source them out of China...

 

I hope my IC pump lasts that long! Thanks!

 

I'm starting to think my IC pump is failing. I can't put my finger on it, but sometimes it just feels weird. I really wish I knew how noticeable the failed pump would be. Is it noticeable when driving normally or only when accelerating aggressively?

 

Imagine your car with only 175 horsepower. That's what it feels like.

 

Based on my experience you are not going to be able to accelerate. You can maintain your speed but you will not go faster - unless you use the autostick. When the supercharger stops supercharging there is no mistaking the utter and complete lack of power.

 

That may be what I'm experiencing, but I don't understand why the shifting would matter. If I'm on the freeway at 60 and punch it, it won't shift down. It just accelerates sluggishly, which is normal for a high gear. However, if I down shift, it takes off like a rocket which indicates to me that the SC is engaged. I'm just not sure why the car won't down shift when I hit the pedal hard. If I remember correctly, it improved once I performed the reset procedure. That was a long time ago before the snow came, so I'm not really sure if that worked or not. I'll have to test it out in May or June.

 

I think that the ECU gets confused because it expects output from the supercharger and yet there isn't any so the ECU kills everything including downshifting. But using the autostick is something the ECU can detect and comprehend so it reverts back to a more normal state and lets the car downshift. Course I could be completely wrong here but using the autostick was the only way I could get my car to accelerate.

When using the autostick my car hustled pretty good but not like it did with a functioning supercharger. So if yours moves out under supercharger power after manually downshifting but is slow and won't downshift when driven in full auto mode then I think your supercharger is fine and that you have some other problem.

 

It would seem to me that the higher rate of flow wouldn't allow the water too cool off as efficiently as a slower rate of flow. Are there any other possible issues with using this higher rate pump such as pitting internally from cavitation?

What modifications (to the pump, wiring, outlet, inlet, etc.) have to be made in order to use this pump?

Thanks

 

actually, the higher flowing pump is what we need on these cars, to a point...the stock pump is just inadequate to move the amount of fluid needed to cool the IAT's...the only modification that is needed is splicing the wiring in...thanks!

 

Great write I hope I don't have to for a while !

 

Aren't the inlet and outlet sizes different?

 

Just bought the Bosch pump off ebay to replace, don't want to mess with the CM30 right now. I'm willing to replace it in another 20k miles with the CM30 at that point, but right now don't want to deal with drilling and all that.

Quick question: the instructions say to "refill your liquid source for the pump.."

I have yet to take off the wheel and get up there to look around, so I know very little about how the whole pump set up works. I need to have everything ready because it is my only vehicle. Will I need some special liquid or is it water? Where do I refill this liquid source? I searched the forums for days and cant seem to find a more detailed explanation than that copied from the slk32 forum.

Thanks for any help. Plan to replace the IC pump tomorrow, 26 June.

 

Just put a bucket to catch the fluids when you unhook the hoses from the pump. When your done replacing it just run you car a bit and poor it back in the overflow tank. It should take it all back in.

The polarity for the pump is pretty easy as well. I bought the plug to go with the bosch pump. I just tapped just behind my factory plug and added the connections. So if later I want to plug the stock pump back in. Look at your pump with the plug in and it will show + or -. Grab some spades and just make sure to connect + and - correctly. All the brackets and hoses should fit like factory. If you need pics let me know.

 

You shouldn't have to take off the wheel if you have jackstands. The pump is located just behind the bumper cover on the passenger side. Cover panel comes off pretty easily and getting to it is not all that difficult.

My $.02