Ok, there have been other threads on this, but what exactly are the symptoms and how do you prove it to the dealers who always say the car is normal?

 

I just replied back on your last post in the other thread. There are many options as you will read. If you dont want to pay for anything. What worked best for me was printing up the symptoms and the how to right off of this forum. Sometimes you just have to tell them what to do half the clowns have not seen or driven an SRT6 let alone they see a crossfire maybe once or twice a year. If the pump is getting replaced make sure to get the air temp sensor replaced as well. The two seem to go hand in hand. If they run a check the air temp should fire a code. Good luck my advice is go with the CM30 if I would have know that before I went into the dealer it would have saved me a week waiting on the pump, another week waiting for the sensor, and a days worth of work. IN the end your still receiving the same faulty pump that has gone wrong for almost everyone but new out of the box lol.

 

Did the search and found the thread I was looking for. Thanks! I'm going to print it out and take it to the dealer.

Thanks for the help!

 

So what Cm size should I go with 15 or 20.

 

one other thing what would I do with the vacuum line that goes to the pump.

 

I thought that was a vac. line too, but it is actually a vent tube under closer exam. It runs up the cooling line and attaches nothing.

 

Really no crap I was just out there looking at it, well that makes it easy, Cm-30 part no. 10-24503-03 this is for the 20 cm pump I think I would rather have the 20 over the 15, waiting on a price...

 

Just because I don't know how much longer my IC will last with the various statistics on the failure rate of these things, I'm ordering the CM-30 as well.

When I track the car, the last thing I want to worry about is whether the IC Pump is going to die or not...

I was SOOO tempted to go with the 90, but then I'd have to upgrade the intercooler and plumbing too... not to mention the electrical circuit.

 

Ok replaced my pump had to do it myself but only took 20 min. it cured my problem. The air temp sensor will be here today, figured I might as well replace it since it's under warranty...

 

did you get the part for free since it's under warranty?

 

Yes I got both of them for free, and returned the old one's after I was done...

 

Well got a price on the CM-30 Johnson pump alot cheaper then I was expecting $150 to my door. I called Renntech they want $3,500 for a IC pump upgrade and they said it would drop the water temp 15 degrees, now that's just way to much money...

 

Funny... I e-mailed that lady from e-bay referred in the other thread... should get mine delivered soon... for $84 total.

 

Things to note when installing a Johnson CM30 pump.

CAUTION: DO NOT perform this procedure if the coolant is warm or hot. It WILL burn you.

1. Electrical connection has to be spliced. There is no plug on the CM30. I cut about half the copper off the stripped end of the wire, tinned (soldered) them and then pushed them into the existing factory plug as if they were pins. Then the whole assembly was wrapped in gaffer's tape.

2. When disconnecting the hoses from the factory pump, have a large catch bowl below so as not to loose any fluid. It will drain about 1 quart or so before stopping. (or at least slowing down to a dribble).

3. You will need a piece or two of radiator hose to slip over the Johnson CM30 pump housing to get it snug in the rubber mounting from the factory pump. I recommend you go to the auto parts store ahead of time and get one piece of hose that has it's inner diameter the same size. You can then cut one piece to slip over the casing, and another to split lengthwise and put over the first. this should make the factory rubber mounting VERY snug. I found I had an old radiator hose that had an expanded end (molded) and so the two different sizes were perfect.

4. The inlet and outlet fittings on the CM30 are not 'ribbed' like the factory pump. I recommend you get two regular (screw type) hose clamps to put these hoses back on. The outlet (pressure) side of mine began to leak with the factory clamps installed. The inlet seemed fine, but why tempt fate.

Hope that helps.
Cheers!

 

Thanks for the 'how-to', but does it make a difference?

SQ

 

ShawnQ,

Not without a coolant reservoir, it won't. The only thing it will do is last longer than the stock pump (based on what I've read about the Bosch pump failure rate).

I will probably install a reservoir by the end of the year. But for now, I'm just happy that the pump won't fail (again based on the numbers and feedback from various users).

Cheer!

 

So let me understand this correctly...

You were able to get parts covered under warranty and put them in yourself? Did Chrysler pay you the labor too? I'm confused.

 

I kind of caught this thread on the tail end...but I assume you all are upgrading to a more durable pump that is renowned by the AMG/MB guys?

Someone needs to make it 'plug -n- play'...

Is there a usual time when these stock bosch pumps fail? What causes the failure, the excessive heat?

SQ

 

I haven't heard anyone claim that they found out 'why' they fail. They are located in an area that does not get heat soaked, so it's probably NOT heat. They are mounted in rubber with the mounting bracket isolated with rubber mounts too... so probably NOT vibration.

Being a Bosch part, I'm surprised it does fail, unless it's because of the heat of the intercooler coolant itself.

The Johnson CM30 pump has proven it's worth on the track for the MB guys on their fourms.

Johnson makes marine pumps, so you know they have to be reliable. I couldn't believe how much smaller it was though... so thin.

As to making it plug-and-play... you would need the other end of the MB plug that is part of the stock pump. I do not know where to get it. My solution keeps you from having to cut the factory harness and would have to be forced apart, just like any other automotive plug system as I had to use pliers to push in the new 'pins'.

Hope that helps.

 

Turbonetics / Spearco pump.