I know many people on here have the sprint booster because they feel like throttle response is not as good as it should be with these cars. I wanted to let everyone know that since I got my ECU tuned the throttle response is ALOT better in all ways. It was good before but now it's instant! I just thought I would share that as maybe it is the stock tune of the ECU that causes the sluggish response on the stock SRT and other crossfire models.

 

If it is anything like the sprint booster...you're going to have hell getting it out of the hole and off the line without spinning! ESPECIALLY with all of your mods!

Good news though - thanks for the fyi!

SQ

 

I really had to feather it last time I was out and that gave me consistent 1.8-1.9 60 ft times. I had almost NO gas in my tank last time as well. I plan on having nearly a full tank now as I have talked to several people and they agreed it would most likely help.

 

Are you still running the open rear end or have you tried a posi? that one Maxwell made us aware of looks like it would be worth a try.

 

I keep my rear end closed at all times unless I just had a coffee...not sure how Maxwell floats his boat but I float mine on the straight side.

My rear end is stock at this point. I will have to see that info Maxwell posted to decide.

 

Funny I haven't found any choices for a limited slip/posi rearend except for this one:

Cost isn't too bad and could drop your ET with some decent tires. I would be tempted to put a shorter than stock drag radials or slicks on the back which would have the effect of lower gearing.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...t=limited+slip

 

Once again thanks for the update.Weather doesnt look to good here in our area for tomorrow.Hopefully you can get a couple runs in

 

Pretty ignorant question, but what is the ECU? How is it tuned and is this something the dealer would know how to perform? Thanks.

Out West

 

Best to do an internet search for that one. It's big and broad - It's like a computer with different signals coming in and making decision based on pre-programmed parameters and thus generating signals going out. All to control the performance of our engine.

Most tuning is done by tweaking the permeters (maps) to fit your cars modifications (bigger air box) (faster pulley) (larger exhuast) etc..

 

Mine spins posi all the time, unless I get a little too far side ways. I done the SL55 "Y" & hose swap over the weekend and went out to test it out. I done two runs, when I went back to do the second run I seen the posi marks on the road. They were about 6' long then a 1' blank space where the TC kicked in then another set of posi marks about 2' long where the TC kicked back out. I'll be posting some results of the swap later when my wife sends me the pic's. Our computer at home is sick with a viris and we can't seem to get rid of, or I would have already posted the results they came out pretty good using a G-Tech meter. All the runs I have done with the G-Tech meter has been just letting off the brake and flooring it, so any body that has an SRT-6 knows you can get a better launch by slowly flooring it.

 

How did you mod the pipes to fit ? I found them about 20mm too short. I have done a post today on how I am doing the mods. I would be interested as to how you did it too.

Did you find much performance difference ? as I noticed the SL55 pipes are far less restrictive and the Y pipe is better too but not by such a large margin.

 

I used heavy duty semi-truck radiator hose's, 2-7/8" ID, 2-3/4 ID and cut a couple of piece's of 2-3/4 exhaust pipe about the width of a hose clamp and inserted them into the 2-7/8" hose to keep the 2-7/8 hose from collapsing after inserting it into the SL55 hose. The results came out good, as soon as my wife sends me the pic's I'll post them up to show how I did it and the gains I got. I found the SL55 hose's to be about 30mm to short. Next will be to work on the restrictions going through the radiator support and if I get as much gains with that as the SL55 "Y" I'll be in the 11's on a G-Tech meter.

 

Sounds like very similar to what I am doing. I chose Stainless steel and brought a stainless steel tooth brush holder from wallmart (ASADA). It is only about 0.5mm thick so won't reduce the ID either.

I take it from your post above that you did notice a difference, so that makes me feel better already.