Very Confused About Overflow Tank
Originally Posted by Steve Hellums
I don't have a laptop, that does sounds like a good little experiment. The only problem with taking temp measurements as you said to do, is right now my car is cleaned up and stored for the winter. You wouldn't believe the amount of salt they put on the roads up here in Indiana. When I left work one day last week I was wishing I had a camra to take a picture of the road, it had so much salt on it, it was actually white. Just looking at the HE with gap of 1&1/8" between it and the AC condencer & radiator, I don't think when the cooling fan kicks on it can not be pulling any air thur the HE. Just in my opinion the thing that would help cool the I/C & HE coolant the most would be to install electric fans on the HE. But the main problem there is there is no room to do so where the HE sits right now, I've not looked to see if it could be moved forward to make room to put fans behind it. I have talked with a radiator builder about adding a 20" wide 6" tall 3/4" thick trans cooler right on top of the HE and putting a couple fans on it, but he said the way a trans cooler was designed that it probably wouldn't help much. There is only about 3" from the back of the bumper to the AC condencer, witch leave's a guy with little option of doing something with cooling fans and a taller HE. The thinest fans that I have found was 2.04" thick, so that only leave's 1" for the thickness of a taller HE. I guess I'm back to the drawing board
.
Originally Posted by HDDP
How about trying this little experiment, it should answer some questions for all of us... Take a thermometer and measure the temperature of the coolant in the overflow tank, note the ambient temp as well... Then take the car for a spirited drive for an hour and measure the coolant temps again... I would like to see the differences...
I then (by accident) pumped the upper radiator hose that’s clipped at the oil filter housing and I could hear coolant running into the reservoir tank thru the small overflow hose. (see pictures & blue tape marks) So I squeezed the small overflow hose while pumping the radiator hose and could feel the coolant being pushed through and into the tank. Could another SRT owner do this to confirm?
Bottom line - I think engine and HE coolant flow together. Maybe not a lot but they do some co-mingling when the engine is running.
So I think even a small tank for the radiator (Like you are doing Steve) will be a good thing. Any separation would be good IMO.
Steve - since you have your front bumper off - do the hoses for the cabin heater run -or- tap into the system near IC pump? I was trying to trace them out but I am hoping you’ll have a better view.
Thanks
BB



Originally Posted by BrianBrave
It was a nice 80deg day today - so I took the SRT out for a little canyon run and when I got home I popped the reservoir cap (slowly) and although I did not have a thermometer I can say the coolant in the tank was HOT HOT HOT! It was actually steaming on a 80deg day. I dipped a rag into the tank and the coolant was just way to hot to touch. BTW - the coolant dash gauge was 1/2 way like always.
I then (by accident) pumped the upper radiator hose that’s clipped at the oil filter housing and I could hear coolant running into the reservoir tank thru the small overflow hose. (see pictures & blue tape marks) So I squeezed the small overflow hose while pumping the radiator hose and could feel the coolant being pushed through and into the tank. Could another SRT owner do this to confirm?
Bottom line - I think engine and HE coolant flow together. Maybe not a lot but they do some co-mingling when the engine is running.
So I think even a small tank for the radiator (Like you are doing Steve) will be a good thing. Any separation would be good IMO.
Steve - since you have your front bumper off - do the hoses for the cabin heater run -or- tap into the system near IC pump? I was trying to trace them out but I am hoping you’ll have a better view.
Thanks
BB



I then (by accident) pumped the upper radiator hose that’s clipped at the oil filter housing and I could hear coolant running into the reservoir tank thru the small overflow hose. (see pictures & blue tape marks) So I squeezed the small overflow hose while pumping the radiator hose and could feel the coolant being pushed through and into the tank. Could another SRT owner do this to confirm?
Bottom line - I think engine and HE coolant flow together. Maybe not a lot but they do some co-mingling when the engine is running.
So I think even a small tank for the radiator (Like you are doing Steve) will be a good thing. Any separation would be good IMO.
Steve - since you have your front bumper off - do the hoses for the cabin heater run -or- tap into the system near IC pump? I was trying to trace them out but I am hoping you’ll have a better view.
Thanks
BB



[quote=BrianBrave]It was a nice 80deg day today - so I took the SRT out for a little canyon run and when I got home I popped the reservoir cap (slowly) and although I did not have a thermometer I can say the coolant in the tank was HOT HOT HOT! It was actually steaming on a 80deg day. I dipped a rag into the tank and the coolant was just way to hot to touch. BTW - the coolant dash gauge was 1/2 way like always.
I then (by accident) pumped the upper radiator hose that’s clipped at the oil filter housing and I could hear coolant running into the reservoir tank thru the small overflow hose. (see pictures & blue tape marks) So I squeezed the small overflow hose while pumping the radiator hose and could feel the coolant being pushed through and into the tank. Could another SRT owner do this to confirm?
Bottom line - I think engine and HE coolant flow together. Maybe not a lot but they do some co-mingling when the engine is running.
So I think even a small tank for the radiator (Like you are doing Steve) will be a good thing. Any separation would be good IMO.
Steve - since you have your front bumper off - do the hoses for the cabin heater run -or- tap into the system near IC pump? I was trying to trace them out but I am hoping you’ll have a better view.
Thanks
BB
I checked out the heater hose, it comes from the water pump down to a real small pump that's mounted kind of on the bumper above the HE pump. I guess these strange little car's have their own cabin heater pump
. It leaves the pump and goes up on top of the fender well to what I'm guessing are two variable solonoid valves from the duel climate control.
I then (by accident) pumped the upper radiator hose that’s clipped at the oil filter housing and I could hear coolant running into the reservoir tank thru the small overflow hose. (see pictures & blue tape marks) So I squeezed the small overflow hose while pumping the radiator hose and could feel the coolant being pushed through and into the tank. Could another SRT owner do this to confirm?
Bottom line - I think engine and HE coolant flow together. Maybe not a lot but they do some co-mingling when the engine is running.
So I think even a small tank for the radiator (Like you are doing Steve) will be a good thing. Any separation would be good IMO.
Steve - since you have your front bumper off - do the hoses for the cabin heater run -or- tap into the system near IC pump? I was trying to trace them out but I am hoping you’ll have a better view.
Thanks
BB
I checked out the heater hose, it comes from the water pump down to a real small pump that's mounted kind of on the bumper above the HE pump. I guess these strange little car's have their own cabin heater pump
. It leaves the pump and goes up on top of the fender well to what I'm guessing are two variable solonoid valves from the duel climate control.
Originally Posted by BrianBrave
Bottom line - I think engine and HE coolant flow together. Maybe not a lot but they do some co-mingling when the engine is running.
Isn't it well known that the fluid is used for both engine and I/C air cooling?
I was always under that impression...that the I/C and Engine used the same coolant. This is why everyone seperates them on the benz forums.
SQ
Originally Posted by ShawnQ
Brian,
Isn't it well known that the fluid is used for both engine and I/C air cooling?
SQ
Isn't it well known that the fluid is used for both engine and I/C air cooling?
SQ
Originally Posted by Steve Hellums
I checked out the heater hose, it comes from the water pump down to a real small pump that's mounted kind of on the bumper above the HE pump. I guess these strange little car's have their own cabin heater pump
. It leaves the pump and goes up on top of the fender well to what I'm guessing are two variable solonoid valves from the duel climate control.
. It leaves the pump and goes up on top of the fender well to what I'm guessing are two variable solonoid valves from the duel climate control.To summarize - I feel that more engine coolant is getting into the overflow tank then just during extreme overheat conditions (radiator belching) and possibly exchanging heat.
I like the idea of isolating the two systems by adding a small radiator tank and then utilizing the stock tank for the IC, but from what you've discovered I would not want to re-route the HE coolant lines to "flow" thru the tank (if the tank has baffles/sections)
Adding a larger, remote mounted tank is the best upgrade for the racers and extreme performance, but for cost effectiveness, adding the small radiator tank will allow me to upgrade in phases.
1. Add small overflow tank for radiator to isolate both systems (under $75)
2. Upgrade to a larger HE ($450)
3. Upgrade to the Johnson Marine Pump ($100)
4. (if needed) replace the stock IC tank with an aftermarket aluminum "flow thru" type tank in the same location or remote.
I wonder if there is a more effective cooling fluid mixture that can be used for the HE that you might not use for a engine coolant?
Originally Posted by BrianBrave
YUP!
Thanks Steve - I couldn't get a good look but I wanted to be sure that separating the two systems would not require re-routing the cabin heat hoses.
To summarize - I feel that more engine coolant is getting into the overflow tank then just during extreme overheat conditions (radiator belching) and possibly exchanging heat.
I like the idea of isolating the two systems by adding a small radiator tank and then utilizing the stock tank for the IC, but from what you've discovered I would not want to re-route the HE coolant lines to "flow" thru the tank (if the tank has baffles/sections)
Adding a larger, remote mounted tank is the best upgrade for the racers and extreme performance, but for cost effectiveness, adding the small radiator tank will allow me to upgrade in phases.
1. Add small overflow tank for radiator to isolate both systems (under $75)
2. Upgrade to a larger HE ($450)
3. Upgrade to the Johnson Marine Pump ($100)
4. (if needed) replace the stock IC tank with an aftermarket aluminum "flow thru" type tank in the same location or remote.
I wonder if there is a more effective cooling fluid mixture that can be used for the HE that you might not use for a engine coolant?
Thanks Steve - I couldn't get a good look but I wanted to be sure that separating the two systems would not require re-routing the cabin heat hoses.
To summarize - I feel that more engine coolant is getting into the overflow tank then just during extreme overheat conditions (radiator belching) and possibly exchanging heat.
I like the idea of isolating the two systems by adding a small radiator tank and then utilizing the stock tank for the IC, but from what you've discovered I would not want to re-route the HE coolant lines to "flow" thru the tank (if the tank has baffles/sections)
Adding a larger, remote mounted tank is the best upgrade for the racers and extreme performance, but for cost effectiveness, adding the small radiator tank will allow me to upgrade in phases.
1. Add small overflow tank for radiator to isolate both systems (under $75)
2. Upgrade to a larger HE ($450)
3. Upgrade to the Johnson Marine Pump ($100)
4. (if needed) replace the stock IC tank with an aftermarket aluminum "flow thru" type tank in the same location or remote.
I wonder if there is a more effective cooling fluid mixture that can be used for the HE that you might not use for a engine coolant?
I recieved my overflow tank today and it fits where I wanted to mount it great. I had intended on using it for the radiator system, but I think I'm giong to try to use it for the S/C system. When I ordered it I thought it would have a pressure relief type of cap, but it doesn't. I want to mount a fitting in the bottom of it to place the large hose and turn the 90 degree fitting straight up to put the small hose. Now for the pressure relief to simulate the function of a radiator cap, there is a 3/8" fitting that is intended for the input on the side. Does anybody know of a pressure relief valve that would work in a 3/8th's hose application and what the lbs of relief it should be. I know most radiator caps are 7, 10, 12 or 15 PSI, but I have know idea what lbs of relief should be on the S/C system, here's the one I got so you can maybe understand wht I'm talking about doing - http://weapon-r.com/english/index.ph...oducts_id=5973
I guess this may be an ignorant question, but is a pressure relief valve necessary when running an isolated intercooler system? Will the coolant really build up enough heat as it cycles through to build up excessive pressure?
I was just planning to run my return lines to a 1 gallon resevoir which will gravity feed the Johnson pump and then the pump will push the fluid through the entire system and back to the resevoir. I plan to test it out this weekend, but if someone with more knowledge on this subject thinks it's a bad idea, please let me know.
I was just planning to run my return lines to a 1 gallon resevoir which will gravity feed the Johnson pump and then the pump will push the fluid through the entire system and back to the resevoir. I plan to test it out this weekend, but if someone with more knowledge on this subject thinks it's a bad idea, please let me know.
Originally Posted by SRTpowa
I guess this may be an ignorant question, but is a pressure relief valve necessary when running an isolated intercooler system? Will the coolant really build up enough heat as it cycles through to build up excessive pressure?
I was just planning to run my return lines to a 1 gallon resevoir which will gravity feed the Johnson pump and then the pump will push the fluid through the entire system and back to the resevoir. I plan to test it out this weekend, but if someone with more knowledge on this subject thinks it's a bad idea, please let me know.
I was just planning to run my return lines to a 1 gallon resevoir which will gravity feed the Johnson pump and then the pump will push the fluid through the entire system and back to the resevoir. I plan to test it out this weekend, but if someone with more knowledge on this subject thinks it's a bad idea, please let me know.
Steve,
Have you seen the folks who have plumbed the I/C into the windshield wiper reservoir?
I don't believe that is pressurized, so I'm not sure if it is required on the I/C side.
SQ
Have you seen the folks who have plumbed the I/C into the windshield wiper reservoir?
I don't believe that is pressurized, so I'm not sure if it is required on the I/C side.
SQ
Originally Posted by ShawnQ
Steve,
Have you seen the folks who have plumbed the I/C into the windshield wiper reservoir?
I don't believe that is pressurized, so I'm not sure if it is required on the I/C side.
SQ
Have you seen the folks who have plumbed the I/C into the windshield wiper reservoir?
I don't believe that is pressurized, so I'm not sure if it is required on the I/C side.
SQ
Originally Posted by ShawnQ
Steve,
Have you seen the folks who have plumbed the I/C into the windshield wiper reservoir?
I don't believe that is pressurized, so I'm not sure if it is required on the I/C side.
SQ
Have you seen the folks who have plumbed the I/C into the windshield wiper reservoir?
I don't believe that is pressurized, so I'm not sure if it is required on the I/C side.
SQ
Originally Posted by HDDP
Have you tried JEGS ? Or perhaps Gerhard Schruff at Bell Intercoolers...
Last edited by Steve Hellums; Jan 18, 2008 at 03:20 AM.
I finally found a valve that I could use on the little catch tank, but it's $75 + shipping. I could about buy a different tank for that though, but the main reason I bought the one that I did was because it had a site tube on the side of it to see the level in the tank. I called the guy and talked to him about the application and he said it would be perfect for what I was looking for. I'm probably not going to seperate the systems at the moment now that I have installed the fans on my heat exchanger, I'd like to see how they'll work first, but I thought I would post up the site for any one that may be in need of such a valve. It's the Cooling System Pressure Control Valve, pretty cool little gadget. http://www.vaportrailracing.com/pressurecontrol.htm
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