okay
so basically expansion line isnt really needed (well cant see an explanation for it at this stage.)
see attached schematic

So my idea of simply inserting/sealing a 1+1/2 inch riser in the present expansion tank could fly - although PVC is out - the arrangement needs to handle;
a) temperature to 220F
b) 100mls of expansion capacity (SLK32 - 2L x 5%)
c) not hinder being able to refill main engine reservior space when required - well you can pour it in slower
d) not hinder pressure relief cap closing/operation for main engine "catastrophic" relief.
e) applied sealant cant eventually degrade and come loose and get caught in water galleries

Obviously a CO2 system (dry ice) would have to be open to atmosphere to allow for gases to escape

 

BBdiagram.jpg

 

Yes - thanks.
I was aware of this mod. and all the wonderful work you, Waldig and others have been up to.
I was just thinking (and hope to affect) a simpler solution - 1 piece of 6" of 1.5" pipe.....although it wont have dryIce capability.
After that, I'm planning on a Killer Chiller, once 32krazy (Steve?) sorts his out (and I sort some vitals out on the new vehicle that allow me to confirm "spending money on this car is a good thing!").

b22b

 

Sorry, but I don't see your "simpler solution" as a solution to anything. Sticking a pipe inside the existing tank? We're trying to separate and stay away from that Hot Tank. How is your idea any better than the simpler solution of Needswings separation valves?

 

There will not be any heat transfer (well minimal anyway) through the pipe in the tank. It is more to stop the different density liquids from intermixing - if you have 20% Glycol in the charge air Cooler circuit and 50% in the Engine Circuit.
Or am I missing something and there already is a baffle in the resevior?

 

There are indeed baffles/chambers, but they have holes between the walls. Here's an old pic. from Brian Brave. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/n.../SurgeTank.jpg
I prefer a separate vented (zero pressure) tank for easy filling/monitoring of the IC system. My little spit tank allows me to actually see the pump working/flowing. I copied this Mod from Tunaglove.

 

yes - interesting arrangement isnt it.
I wonder what the thinking is here - myabe the baffles are for strength - since it's gotta handle 7lbs or half a bar...not small - 1000lb/ft2 (5tonnes/m2), ...and its plastic - most cheap sources are only good to 170-200F before significant strength loss. So methinks they are for stength and the holes to allow a simple single point fill for both circuits.

Okay - the following - are ramblings - but hey - there maybe someone whos bored enough out there to read it....I'm bored enough to write it...gotta keep the free expression rolling!
....................
Since heat rises and there is little cooling in the resevoir, heat will rise from the engine circuit and push liquid up from the engine circuit/radiator through the bottom entry point (70ml per 40F). This will intermix with the reservior bulk, but the charge air circuit isnt calling for fluid until it begins to cool*.
Hot fluid stays up the top - as per hot air rises....
When it does begin to cool (20ml per 40F) subsequently drawing that 20ml back into the system. Hey that's not enough to even get down the tube to the flowing charge air circuit.....hmmm...

Maybe explains why after 3 days (30miles) of replacing the Engine Coolant with blue, my Charge Air coolant was still green from the previous fill. of course racing is a different story. So this can develope a cycle between periods of WOT and off obviously.

And of course if you had different solutions in each circuit - you wanna keep 'em seperate - hence the seperation tube I'm considering.

 

I removed the cap - easy - standard...but has anyone removed the black plastic "socket" it screws into - that is without having to destroy the reservoir?