We modify all maps within the ECU. This includes injection maps during acceleration, injection maps at part load, timing maps at part load, and timing maps during acceleration. We also modify full throttle maps as well.

We up the RPM limiter.
We up the speed limiter.

Octane plays a huge factor in tuning. Cars that run only 93 octane will be able to run a bit more timing on the top end. Cars with 91 octane will need to be a bit more conservative.

Current A/F ratio information and updated dyno charts help us determine what we can do with the tune.

Data logs are huge too. If we know that your IAT's, Engine temp, short term and long term fuel trims, etc are all good, then we can push the tune a bit more.

If you can log multiple sensors, then I would like to see:

Vehicle Speed
Vehicle RPM
Engine Load
Engine Temp
Intake Temp
Intake Manifold Pressure
Short Term Fuel Trims
Long Term Fuel Trims
Timing
O2 Voltage


All of this info would be considered helpful if available.


If you guys care, there are great books on tuning at the book store. It will really open your eyes to tuning.

I can honestly say that tuning is the most important mod you can do.

 

Thanks for the explaination Jerry. I have a question......I am soon planning on running the stage 2 AIS water/meth system. I would assume you would need to retune my ECU. Correct? And if so, what additional gains come from that tune+meth if any?

 

Yes, and if you could meet up with Anthony and get that car on a dyno, that would be best. It would most likely take a good part of the day to get the system dialed in and the car custom dyno tuned.

A custom dyno tune will always yield more power than a mail tune because we can make onsite adjustments to the ECU.

I have never tuned a 3.2L motor with meth.....should be fun!

 

Maybe we should have a dyno day in various cities across the country.

 

I hear ya! Well, it should be fairly soon! Ill get in touch with Anthony to set up a time to do the install and dyno. Looking forward to it!

 

Distant was has your time dropped since you got your tune from LET. Your were in the 12.20's without it right? Did you have another tune prior?
thanks,
Cruzinquick

AMGJerry,
So is the group price $499, like on the mb forum?

 

I ran my best time without the tune, but the weather was a hell of a lot better when I ran my best. Now, im close to my best(anywhere from 12.25-12.35), with about 1-1.5 more MPH on the top end and the weather is much worse now so......60fts are about the same. I think I may have been a little too lean without the tune. When I dynoed it after the tune, I was running around 11.5 A/F with nice curves on the chart. So at least i know its in the "safe" zone.

 

That's still pretty good to run your best in both temps. What do you expect to knock off when the weather is better? Maybe a tenth? I'll be estatic if I run your current times in my best weather this winter.

 

Yeah, that would be real nice if you ran that in those altitudes!! Good luck! I was figuring about a tenth, yes.......Although I was hoping to see 12.0's, I just don't think it has enough to get there........yet!

 

That sounds like a great idea.I would much rather do it this way than just mail the ecu in for a tune.I would be up for a dyno day in the chicago area anytime

 

Still asking? Anybody?

 

That would be a heck of deal - I paid more for my dyno tune - but it was worth it!

 

That's what the C32 guys got, same ECU right?

 

How Do you check a/f via a gauge during driving? Is it complicated to install a a/f gauge?
Thanks.

 

Of course...

I'll offer the same deal here.

$499 custom tune for the SRT6.

 

You simply watch the gauge as you drive. Actually its safer to keep your eyes on the road and have a friend watch the gauge as you do a run or two.

Installing an a/f gauge is easy. Have an o2 bung welded into your exhaust for the sensor, preferably before the cat. You route the wires into the cabin and get power from the fuse box. On our cars there happens to be a convienient pre-existing hole by the brake master cylinder, and the fuse box is on the driver side of the dash.

After my pulley and intake were installed my car ran very lean up top. The tune fixed that until i did my intake manifold mod, then it ran lean again. The only way i could possibly know this is from the a/f gauge. Its amazing to me more people here dont run them.

In fact my main reason for the tune was to actually richen my a/f so my car is always safe, not the added power...but thats nice too. Leaner is meaner but only until the ring lands crack.

 

Can you also get accurate data from the OBD-Port or is it impossible because of the OEM-O2-Sensors? I am interested in the data at WOT.
Thanks.

 

Forget about the ET, the increase in MPH shows an increase in power (especially with less optimal weather). Too many variables effect ET to be used as an accurate gauge alone.

 

Im using a Carchip data logger in the OBD port but it only reads IAT, MAP, timing, braking, and speed.

Maybe Jerry or someone else can chime in here on if A/F ratio is data that can be pulled from the OBD port...?

Keep in mind even if it can you really want to know a/f in real time so you can let off the throttle if you run lean.

 

There is a way to calculate narrow band O2 voltage to A/F ratio.

Much easier to just purchase a wide band.