I have done plenty of reading on this already lol i know how the search feature works on MBworld and here. If you have not heard the sound it is a gut wrenching squeal almost like you think the belt is slipping but you know it is worse. It is right when the supercharger engages about 2000 rpms. Or when you give it the grocerys it sometimes happens as well. My question to you guys is how many have this problem? how many choose to ignore it? how many of you think I should have the supercharger replaced ?

This is what scared me today...... Should I just replace the bearing, or sell my Renntech set up and just buy the new code3 set up with the bearing allready in it ??? HELPPPPPP


This is a Supercharger off of a 2006 SRT6 Chrysler Crossfire with a Mercedes 3.2 litre. Supercharger is in perfect working order only roughly 18,000 miles on it. Removed from vehicle do to a clutch bearing noise. I repaired the supercharger with an aftermarket press-in Code3 Performance replacement bearing. These sell for over $6,000 new, this one is fairly used with no stripped screw holes, broken ears, or cracks. I tested supercharger for noise after bearing replacement by spinning a belt on the pulley to engine speed & could hear no noise previously heard.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chrys...mZ160277688950

 

I honestly don't think it's the supercharger itself. It is the design of the SC clutch. When the clutch engages, there is a split second of slip that occurs. This momentary slip between two pieces of steel being engaged causes the high pitched sound you're hearing. I guess it can be compared to the squeal that metallic brake pads cause on the rotor. I honestly believe the clutch would have to be redesigned to eliminate this annoyance; many people experience this issue with these engines. I've read of people replacing the SC clutch or entire SC to remedy this, but it is just a waste of time and money as far as I'm concerned. Once the clutch wears in, I guarantee the sound will return.

 

My SLK32 has 25K miles and it has never squealed that way...the SC engages a lot (even when my foot's not in it), but I never hear slipping squeal, with or without the Code 3 pulley that I installed about a 800 miles ago. I would tend to agree that the supercharger is not the issue. Maybe shimming the clutch plate closer will help; or if the clutch has a lot of miles, maybe refacing it would help (if that's even an option).

 

The S/C clutch engauges when you go above about 1800 rpm and it stays on until you stop moving or coast for over about 30 seconds.

There are a few that dont believe this, to check this out get a bud in the driver seat to put on the foot brake NOT PARKING and in gear, torque it up to about 1800 Rs and you will see the clutch turn on and go OFF when the reves are dropped. THe wheels are not moving, that kicks the S/C off.

THe stock clutch surface is not too big and it can slip if there is not enough material and tension to cause it to "lock Up"

The code 3 change was way easy to install and the bearing comes with it too.

Clutching at the truth, Woody

 

1800RPM? Now is that when applying only GENTLE pressure to the accelerator? Or can you just not get it to engage below 1800 at all? I ask because mine will engage immediately off of idle if I apply at least moderate throttle. Maybe Jerry does something to enable earlier engagement in his tunes, or maybe it's a difference in software between Mercedes and Chrysler.

 

If the noise occures after your driving and the gas is applied, the clutch appears to have too little tension.

I set mine up with a 0.010 feeler gauge between the pulley and magnetic assembly. WITH THE MOTOR OFF, slip the feeler gauge in-between and rotate the rear hub that has the black ring on it. This is the impeller drive and you will see the center of the v belt hum rotate. There should be no drag on the feeler and not much play. I forget the distance in mm but one mm. is like 0.040"

BTW I got my pillar pod, it looks great and the packing was about the best I have seen this side of the Smithsonian Institute. IT arrived in good shape and Iam working on texture already to get the two sides to look correctly. Thanks again, Ill do a write up when I get to the camera.

Woody. ENJOY

 

I was wondering if anyone was going to get there pillar today. Let me know if you figure out a texture process I cant wait to see it, you will make alot of folks happy.

 

Mine engages well below 1,800 RPM, basiclly as soon as I start moving (maybe about 1,100 RPM). But I do have a RENNtech tuned ECU and they told me that part of the tune would be that the S/C will engage sooner. I have never heard any noise at all and I can tell when it kicks in, it will give a ever so slight hesitation. Plus I have a LED light in the car that come's on when the I/C pump starts up witch is signaled to come on when the S/C starts I believe.

 

Let me tell you a story.

i liked the idea Steve had so I added an LED to the I/C pump and the S/C pump. Nice.

Went thru the tech inspection on Saturday, when the hood closed it pinched the cable that I used and it shorted out the 12 volts blowing the I/C pump fuse. I was in line and had to do my runs without the pump, and it got hot, intake was at about 210 degrees measured inside the plenum.

I have since rewired the circuit so that the led has a 1000 ohm resistor at the source end of the cable so that a short further down the cable just blanks out the led. THe fuse and the pump or S/C will operate as normal, just the light is off till its fixed.

FYI, Woody

LEDs operate at low voltage and need to have a current limiting resistor, positioning it on the INPUT end of the cable makes it a more bullet proof design.

 

My car squeaks on occasion. Almost sounds like a sharp BOV from a turbo car at times. I personally don't worry about it. Just another quirk with the clutched supercharger...